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Posts posted by 7800fan
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Cooling spray didn't work, swapping chip around did move the hot spot around. My temp probe was registering nearly 75'C on 2 of the chips, a tad toasty. I got a set of 8 RAM chips off eBay from Europe and swapped them all. Now my 5200 works.
I also had to replace the original cart slot, it didn't work because of gunk inside that I couldn't clean out and the power LED, the old one somehow had broken lead.
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What's the Japanese DS game?
Moero! Nekketsu Rhythm Damashii: Osu! Tatakae! Ouendan 2
No idea what it is about.
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What about TMNT? Dealing with underwater bomb sucks.
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Cell phone charger should work. They put out 2.1A and will be more than enough for a 5200 with 2600 adapter.
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Ah it's on the other side of Lake Michigan from where I live. I'd have to go about 3 hours south-west, go through Chicago, and a few more hours north to get that lot. So about half a day round trip plus around $50 in gas.
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If the tracking still shows not delivered, I think after 21 days you can open insurance claim on lost package. The post office will have to eat the loss and you should get most of the money back. If the game you sent is worth more than $50 and you didn't pay for extra coverage, you won't get the full amount.
USPS insurance is almost only good for lost package, otherwise it's like a scam. If the item arrived damaged, it'd be hard to prove they caused the damage and not due to improper packaging.
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Seems like Walmart started presale too soon and had to cancel them. I do hope they prioritize cancelling all pre-orders of more than 1 system to stop flippers and give more people a chance at actually getting one to keep.
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White dot marks pin 1 of the chip, and should be closest to the notched side of the socket and silkscreen. So the right side chip is in correct position. Left side chip is backward.
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The banana plus is usually called RCA plug. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector
Both the RF signal from 2600 and the F-type (twist on) from antenna or cable boxes are 75 ohms while older antenna cable (flat ribbon) are 300 ohms.
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Didn't buy anything but one local Goodwill has a surplus of PSX, PSOne, and PS2 consoles and 3 Wii consoles with missing GC port covers ($50 or up) and a bunch of controllers ($10 and up), no game at all. I would guess games were picked over clean before I got there, or they were picked over during yard sales and the unsold consoles were dumped at Goodwill.
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Some of the concern is sort of overblown. The worst case with 3.3v chip in a 5v console with poor or zero level shifting is that 3.3v will run hot and burn out but the console is not likely to suffer any damage. A DIY people may try to get away with minimum stuff but good people who intend to make and sell flash carts usually implement good level shifter and 3.3v regulator to protect the low voltage parts.
You could lose a $100 flash cart but Krikzz have lifetime warranty on his Everdrive carts and it's very rare I hear of a problem, it's more likely something else. A faulty memory card, an unusual setup or mod on console, or rough handling of the naked flash cart board. There were issues with early Turbo ED 2 that was caused by either chip based mod switch (one button switch or controller select on power on) or long data bus between cart slot and expansion devices (Namely TG-16 and CD dock) that was resolved with 2.3 and later.
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One of the 8 RAM chips gets rather hot, almost too hot to touch compared to other 7. Could this cause no video issue? Or should I replace the hot chip and look elsewhere?
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I could sell the board with some parts when I am sure there aren't any more mistakes. I only got 2 chips so you will need to order the chip, the board can come socketed so you could just pop the chip in and it'd be ready to go.
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PVM is also quite expensive through the usual channels like eBay. You'd need to be lucky with Craigslist find or something to get one cheap. The larger one over 20 inches can cost over $100 plus shipping.
The next best thing would be Sony Wega TVs. They are heavy as heck but may turn up cheap on CL. I found my Wega at Salvation Army cheap and it has component, S-Video, and composite and is about 120 pounds.
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The box is taped up with enough tape to satisfy USPS regulation 20x over. You won't be able to save the box at all, and the way it rattles inside there is no tray and probably no manual either. Considering the overall condition of other N64 carts, the Mario cart probably has bad label as well.
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Just trash it. If it was brand new generic Chinese mad PSU, it probably doesn't have any filtering inside and would harm many of the electronics. A good PSU for Atari 5200 would be 10-12v range, 2A (technically 1A is enough if you never use VCS adapter), and has some filtering internally to reduce AC ripple on the DC rail. If you have O-scope and a large power resistor (something like 10 ohms 15w resistor (yes, 15 watts, not the common 1/4w), using O-scope you can see what the ripple is like and how much variation there are. I like it under 5% (which would be around +/- 0.6v on a 12v supply)
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My local Goodwill had a lot of game stuff.

Lots of N64 games, all $9.99 each. Nothing good. Boxed N64 console (taped up a lot to prevent people from open it and losing stuff, but I can't check if it has 4Mb expansion or if the controller was good), $70. Also a silver slim PS2 $60, XBox 360 first version $100 and PSX with controller (non DS) $25 plus a dozen NDS games for $10 each.
Seems like my local Goodwill are using eBay price or slightly higher.
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There is a voltage regulator inside that downconverts anything inputted to 5v that 5200 needs. However the excess voltage needs to be dumped. 11.5v may get the heat sink warm, 18v will make it hot and can possibly burn up the regulators.
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^^ smart choice. SD2IEC is a cheap way to handle disk image and run some program on a real Commodore computer but many games uses custom fastloader software and expects you are using a real 1541 disk drive. SD2IEC does not fully emulate 1541 at all and will cause most games to crash or hang. A solution would be to use a disk copy software and copy from disk image to real disk, then run off real disk but that takes space, relies on finding discontinued and out of production DD floppy disks (1.2MB disks will not work, many people have tried and failed), and also expects you have a working 1541, which can be high maintenance project. Ultimate 1541 and UK both are real 1541 emulated and runs games off SD.
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Whatever happened to Lynx Eye of the Beholder? That was crazy!
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3 TB that is a lot when you consider Atari 2600 originally had 2k and 4k program size. You'd need to duplicate the entire 2600 library about a million times over to fill that drive up.
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The camera hole in the first pictures make me think of Samsung phone.
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I also have the 4 ports and prefer that to 2 ports. There are actually 4 different variations. The original 4 port run does not work with 2600 adapter. The 4 ports console with a * in the serial number have revised design to work with 2600 adapter properly. Then there are early 2 ports consoles that has 4 ports BIOS and will work with those 3 games, and lastly, the later 2 ports console with revised BIOS for PAL support but broke 3 games.
4 ports can easily be modified to not need switch box, console5 has a kit for just a few dollars. Basically remove 2 original parts, install new jack on the console, wire in and add 2 included parts. Then sell that switch box (if you got it) on eBay for like $25.
2 ports that don't work with 3 games can also be fixed but getting to BIOS chip is a pain in the butt job, you have to twist about 30 metal tabs to remove RF shield in order to get to the original BIOS chip. I couldn't use my 5200 without the shield, the video was very fuzzy with the shield off.
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I got the rest of the parts yesterday (Saturday) so I got around to finishing this. I ran into another issue, the 15 pin connector I was going to use. The pins I had on the board is arrainged as:
15 13 11 09 07 05 03 01 NC 14 12 10 08 06 04 02
but the connector with cable I was going to use is wired differently, unexpectedly:
08 07 06 05 04 03 02 01 NC 15 14 13 12 11 10 09
So my original idea isn't likely to work without reworking what I had, and since such connector with cable is already scarce due to diminishing supply of old sound card replacement cable (ATX motherboard with built in sound chip made this obsolete) so I'll just change the connector onboard to regular 15 pin D connector and use extension cable, less headaches this way.
The board with the corrected cable does work. I still need to adjust to get better centering as Pac Man keeps going down and right unless I pressed up or left. I need a better game cart for adjustment and testing all the functions. I don't have the flash cart, any suggestion for cheap cart that I can use to adjust the centering and to make sure all the buttons are working on my custom box?
Going to send off the revised PCB design Monday, it'll be about 2-3 weeks before I get them back. I used iTead, I can get 10 or 12 for only $5 plus shipping, OSHPark wants almost $20 for the same and they only offer 3 boards. OSHPark is closer and I could get it faster if I needed quick proto and testing but I can wait


I've never seen anything like this...
in Atari 5200
Posted
BTW I did check 2 ports schematic and made the revision based on the mod my 2 port system has. Your 3rd picture is the same:
Mine also has the odd angled diode but I didn't have a lifted pin. No idea what purpose that pin served or how lifting it out of socked worked.