right joystick port always firing - light sixer

[right joystick port always firing - light sixer]

At 20k setting, 1.0 is probably 1k ohms but that seems low. I checked mine and both are at same number so your port 1 may have a little problem. Try to desolder and remove one leg of a capacitor and diode connected to pin 6 of the controller port and check the resistance again.

 

If it is still low, and you don't see problem along the trace like solder blob, replace the 4050. If it goes up to 14k ish, then either the cap or diode was bad.

[The Official Turbografx 16 Thread!]

Yeah video modding is a necessity. It's crazy to me this system only has RF. I haven't hooked anything up to RF in years. When I saw the picture quality I remembered why. It's crazy to me that the NES had composite and that came out several years prior.

 

NEC was playing smart back then. Very few consumer TV had composite in so NEC saved about $3 not including composite out, then offered $30 Turbobooster to add AV out since the rear port already have composite and audio out. So if someone wanted composite for better signal, they had to buy more NEC stuff, and Turboboster is like $3 in parts with $0.25 in plastic. There's also Turbobooster Plus which is more expensive but has save RAM for some games like Neutopia.

 

If you're not a puritan collector, there's a clone of Turbobooster you can get cheap or make your own cable or add RCA ports and skip the rear port.

[Masterplay Clone?]

 

Competition? I'm in!

 

I can offer bare or assembled boards with a case of better quality that can be sourced. Hell, I can include the case and keypad at my cost. I'll place an order of new boards w/ some slight alterations that will make it more user friendly for the DIYer. I can have them by the end of this month. My design also has a built-in paddle mode for games like Kaboom and Super Breakout.

 

I determined that these membrane keypads were unreliable in my testing and that's why I've stuck with the more expensive keypads that I've been using for years (they've never failed). Also, I abandoned low budget's circuit using the DG413 since the chip can be hard to find at a reasonable price. I instead opted for an equally reliable circuit that uses two CD4052's, which are reasonably priced and readily available. If you need to replace an IC in the future, which is more probable if you don't house the PCB in a proper case, you will be able to find them easily and for a fair price.

 

If there's demand for a DIY version I'm happy to provide another alternative.

 

Yeah membrane keypad isn't reliable for long term or repeated plays but my plan was mostly playing games that didn't rely on keypad so it won't get much use, like Pitfall. I was never in the market for a large run of Masterplay clone. I get 10 PCB board with the order but I only needed 2, one prototype with the original (bugged) board and one finished design, and then offer the extra PCB to people who don't have the skill or experience in producing one.

 

If the keypad was going to be used a lot like Star Raiders, it'd be easier if it was on the controller itself, and Sega never offered a controller with built in keypad so it's either a 5200 clone, official 5200, or a custom controller which would defeat the original purpose of a masterplay clone.

 

EDIT: my version 1.03 board if anyone wants em: https://www.dropbox.com/s/3oz0vz3wcilbyig/masterplay_clone.zip?dl=0 brd and sch are Eagle file, the rest are gerber 274x format for most PCB jobs if you want to send them. It's already updated for 7800 support. The 2 pins header above the 5200 port is for 5v and ground for future use if I wanted to add something optional, those can be skipped for standard clone build.

[Atari's plans to use CV hardware back in 1983]

So what would a CV adapter for 5200 cost today? Using RAM chips that don't require funky negative voltage, all common off the shelf part plus CV BIOS (because those IP zombies won't rise from the grave to sue for unauthorized sale of BIOS reproduction) and it seems like it could be done today.

 

I'd like to see someone make one and then plug a 2600 adapter into CV adapter!

[Masterplay Clone?]

Do Atari 7800 controllers work as well?

 

No, 7800 controller is wired a bit differently. Only left button would work that correspond to 5200 bottom button, and using right button would short ground and 5v together. The circuit is hard wired to put 5v on pin 5 for Genesis controller (not used on SMS controller) while it's used as right button on 7800. I could make a minor revision by adding a switch that toggles pin 5 between 5v for Genesis and fire button for 7800 controller. Cut a trace there, a few pieces of wires, and a switch screwed in.

 

I do have 7800 controller to test with but I am not fond of it anyhow, it's somewhat uncomfortable compared to Genesis controller.

 

Update: I searched for a switch to test this. All I found are SPSTs, very long 10PDT, and a huge DPDT switch measuring 1"x2" so I'd have to pick up something a little smaller that isn't SPST.

[right joystick port always firing - light sixer]

 

No I didn't try that. How exactly do I do that with a multimeter? This was the system by the way, that I had recapped with mojoatomic's kit a few months ago. I wonder if one of those parts was a replacement part that was bad?

 

With the console turned off, using multimeter set to ohm stick the probe and touch pin 6 and 8 of the controller port, If your 2600 is in pieces, it is easier to check the bottom at the solder spot. If it shows 0 or very low resistance, there's a short.

[eBay china sellers tactic to cover their mistakes ?]

Just a friendly PSA if the seller offers to resend replacement, do remember the final day you can open or escalate claim, many dishonest Chinese seller often use fake number or just never send replacement and are hoping you'd forget. Also when you left a neg, do not be tempted by offer of refund if you removed, I've heard stories of people who removed the neg but never got refund and feedback cannot be re-applied.

[Ugh Media Mail]

I've gotten things in media mail that weren't supposed to be in media mail. If it was delivered without being discovered, I take perverse pleasure in taking my stuff to post office and show them, and tell them the sender used the service illegally. They take down the sender's address probably to pass it to other post office to start inspecting them and refuse pickup from the said sender.

[Grig's Gunstar Garage - 11/03/19 - Lot of 8 sealed PS1 games - $55 shipped]

That poor 101!!! If I wasn't in middle of 101 different projects I would get this one and get an empty Chinese replacement SP shell on eBay. 001 and 101 are the same physically, so 101 board and LCD can fit in 001 shell. bout 1 hour job if you have the right tool and aren't shaking like someone with ALS who had double espresso.

 

I have a 101 that I got from Goodwill some years ago, same condition, and I swapped it for new metallic green shell with Triforce sticker added.

[right joystick port always firing - light sixer]

Did you check pin 6 and 8 in joystick port for short? If it's shorted, it is not the 4050. A bad cap or diode could cause it, desolder or snip the pin off diode or cap to remove short and check the game to see if firing is normal. If there's no short, check the pullup resistor on pin 6 to 5v, without that the controller pin may behave erratically. Burned out resistor, broken resistor, bad solder joint or bad trace to the resistor could cause that.

[Atari Lynx game: unnamed]

Is there bomb in the game? Suspicious looking wall at top left corner. Also the yellow creature inside the house look like a certain electric mouse from a popular game.

[Masterplay Clone?]

 

Finally got it assembled and done. All the stuff lined up just fine. I do have one problem: the source of the case has it listed out of stock. So unless I find another source of the same case, the mounting hole likely won't fit different case.

 

I could just sell the clone without the case and let you make one or use it naked. Still waiting on a few parts to make it finished and ready to sell. At this time I'll have 9 available

[The Official Turbografx 16 Thread!]

No. Music files are expected and games may not like it when it can't find music tracks. Also some of them music added up would greatly exceed the ROM size and require bankswitching. You are looking at a major hack to change or remove music, remove 64K RAM support (if it's a System 3.0 game), and make the game ROM (on track 2 IIRC) play without using CD system.

 

You might have an easier time porting a classic early NES games to work on TG-16 or PCE like Megaman was.

[Which arcade joystick is very nice and comfortable to use...]

for any system that is not overly hard to find or expensive? I got the itch to hack something and make it work for a different console with a little bling but I'd need a house to mount my mod and some early console systems didn't have good joystick controller.

If nothing, I may rip up my Sony Dual Stick controller:

[MicroVision Replacement Screen - Let's get SERIOUS about it!]

There are some 1.54" 200x200 eink display on various Chinese sources like Ali and eBay. I don't know how it's driven though, never explored it since it still can't do more than a few color.

[Any collection of good quality scans of controller overlay?]

Some games that needs it often don't have any when I get em used or when I play ROM via SD cart so I would need to see scan of overlay for games that used it. Anyone have a collection of em? AA rarity list didn't have overlay column for some odd reason

[Masterplay Clone?]

With Sega and Genesis controllers, both buttons are available for 2 button games.

[The Official "Thrift finds" Thread]

Nice shape and with box? List it for $20,000 and see what kind of fish you catch with that bait.

[MicroVision Replacement Screen - Let's get SERIOUS about it!]

The only drawback with eInk display is it won't clear the screen when you turn it off. But they are cheap and partially passive (doesn't need refresh to maintain display like LCD) and very low power.

[Soldering Iron Recommendations]

I got Radio Shack 64-053 digital soldering iron many years ago. It was on sale for something like $50 (original $80) and I had a $30 off coupon (long story) so it was $20 + tax in the end. It is a rebranded soldering iron (variation of Hakko 60w IIRC) and tips and replacement wand or heater core are still available from many sources.

 

Heats up fast, pretty close to accurate temp setting so I can safely use on SMD at lower temp, regular parts at higher temp, or go all the way to 450'C if I need to burn something.

[Atari 7800 2600 games suddenly stop]

I think TIA is the only chip not used at all in 7800 mode? Can you open it up and check/reseat all the ICs? Some IC in my 7800 were socketed and after about 30 years a few likely creeped out a bit, just enough that it'd still work cold but fail when it warms up.

[Who Owns the Imagic Brand These Days?]

So I can call dib on Imagic 2600 games and release a single 2600 cart containing all 19 known games plus menu to select them?

[5200 Flip Cover Replacement]

Any reason to keep transparent color? The controller cables out the side would clue in there's a controller hiding inside. Just make it black to match the rest of the console.

[Masterplay Clone?]

v1.2 board finally showed up so I put it together:

[7800 suddenly won't turn on]

Did you make sure the 7800 adapter was plugged in and the AC outlet is on if it's switched? Also a couple of 7800 I've had, they had problem with power switch button not working. Those button gets worn out and may need to be replaced.