7800fan

"Ooo a Legend of Zelda game? Here's 25 cents. Hmmm... Tengen Tetris is listed as do not sell, so I got to throw it away. Stadium Event... 25 cents. Caltron 6-in-1 is not listed so it's probably pirated, in the bin it goes" I can see that going well. Most likely those who would actually sell to Gamestop are those who stole the games or those who hasn't heard of eBay.

I couldn't find out if anything connected to pin 2 of either op amp without removing the chip and I don't have a dead Lynx to "ruin" so the schematic may be off but I got most of the parts identified and connected. As I suspected in my versions the speakers are directly connected to the headphone jack with no additional boosting. When I get the time and money I'll get parts and duplicate the missing op amp circuit and see if I can make my Lynx rock.

Update I was looking at the schismatic to do minor cleaning such as repairing faded line and hard to read number. I think the schematic has earlier version of sound circuit that wasn't used in 3 of my Lynx II's (my 4th one with new LCD is not coming apart for now) I was at R17 and R18 (by stereo headphone jack), it seems to look like both are 50k on schematic but when I looked at the board, both resistors have code 103 which is 10k and those 2 did not go to headphone jack. The 2 resistors that did connect to headphone jacks are 50k and numbere+-d R22 and R23. Also my board has 2 LM396 op amps U5 and U12, when the schematic shows U12 has NJM2073 dual op amp. So far it seems only the audio section are different on my board than from schematic. It appears that both LM396 are used for stereo sound to the headphone jack, and are fed directly to the speaker when there's no plug. No additional op amp are used, which would explain a lot why all Lynx 2 I've heard has shit sounding speaker. Maybe I'll grab an extra LM386 and wire it according to original schematic then to the speaker to see if I can make it sound more like older Lynx. On my board which has model number C104424-001 is slightly different than schematic C104247 so heads up if you have different revisions. From what I can tell, C104424 only differs in the sound section. Going to see if I can draw the alternate sound circuit with 2 op amps.

Pin 1 for LED, 3 for Up, and 7 for backlight. (number should be on Lynx mainboard). Since it is all over, either you got messed up cable or the pins in the connector got bent out of place.

One of the mystery SFC game you have is http://www.gamefaqs.com/snes/571442-nintama-rantarou-2/data

Wires soldered on pads or onto existing component has a bad habit of pulling if the wire is moved a lot, such as when you're experimenting or trying to fix a problem. I've had lifted pads as well, a dab of hot glue would have held the wire secure and keep it from pulling the trace off the board.

Sent them the info. They did reduce the size a bit

If you want to see expensive set, look for 10179. Millennium Falcon made with over 5,000 pieces. Sealed set are going over $2000 these days.

Apple has 15 pin connectors so not that either. What about C16 or Plus 4? I seems to recall they used different connector on those 2 lesser known Commodore compared to C64 and 128.

C64 and the 128 in 64 mode uses VIA to output video and they are capable of only Y/C and composite. Is there any information around of an add on board or a drop in replacement chip that can output RGB signal?

known Lynx II schematic where? I couldn't find the schematic online at all. All the Lynx schematics I could find were for Lynx 1.

Finally got my mitts on the real Lynx II schematic and it's code named Hayato. The 2 main chips are: Suzy and Hayato. So there's more than cosmetic and size difference from the Mikey and Suzy pair of the earlier Lynx system. I scanned the schematic in, it was a bit of effort to line up large paper on my cheap letter sized scanner, keeping each section straight as possible. There's a bit of skew in the power supply section, I think my scanner is skewed a bit. I've done only minimal cleaning up to preserve as much as possible. There's a few handwritten notes around Hayato chip, probably late revision? The circuit that handles power LED is on the far right side above the mid section. Basically LED gets 5v from the controller panel, the cathode goes to a 1k resistor and a transistor to ground. Also stereo support,. there's extra circuit in the audio section. LCD looks a bit different as well. The biggest difference are in part labeling. I had a hard time matching Lynx 1 schematic with my Lynx II because the part reference has different number such as a transistor that handles power on, they are marked Q11 on one model and Q12 on other. AA is free to take my schematic and add it to archive section alongside Lynx 1 schematic.

Damn nice!! If it's all LEGO and no imitation bricks or non bricks, they averages about $5 per pound on eBay for mixed lot. Sorted, some model can go for a lot. I once got a $100 bin of LEGO that contained a complete Star Destroyer 10030 (books included) that I was able to assemble, verify complete, and flip for $400 That left me with a lot of LEGO left to keep. I figure I have around 500 pounds worth in my house from late 70s to present.

1: Neutopia can do both password and battery save if you have an optional addon: Turbobooster Plus or Turbo CD system, both that can set you back more than $100. PC Engine has a cheaper option, Tennokoe 2 for as low as $20 and could fit TurboGrafx 16 if you modify the connector's shape. The pins are all the same. Without save option, you can only use password save. Password is a nice one as you could get the last password, save it in your system, and not have to re-enter to get to the end. I believe Duo has built in save system. 2: yes that is all I know, Populous and the game is available cheap if you have modded USA system or a Japanese system. I'm going to keep my 1.0 I got on first day it was available.

Bluegrass probably. Did you know Silverhawks' main villian (and Mako from another old series) made a cameo on a recent series a few years ago? Thundercats reboot:

Where's the cheat on Zaku? ie How to get one for less than $100 cheat.

There's a sticky on taking apart Lynx 2, check over it in case you overlooked something. It's also possible the classic fried transistor is fouling up your Lynx. Short one of the transistor leg to ground to see if that works. If you get nothing on, not even LED, try this: http://www.retroisle.com/atari/lynx/Technical/Hardware/lynx_repair.php If that doesn't work, you may have broken power jack. Those cheap plastic shell doesn't hold well and the middle pin often breaks off, It's possible the middle pin is shorting to the other metal contact, which would prevent you from using batteries to power it on. If all else fails, use fire!

Ok not video game but still classic. Used to be my favorite TV show, I was floored when I saw a stack of new party hats, whole thing for 25 cents. No obvious fading so they were probably stored out of sunlight since someone's party 30 years ago. About 75 in that one.

eBay: about $400 for NWC cart. I had the money and I had the chance at genuine official cart that now goes over 5 figures on eBay and I passed it. There's a big ass crack on the wall from 15 years worth of head banging every time I am reminded of a cheap one I passed. Same thing with a cheap 2600 cart, blue in color, with funny T-handle, regarded as the rarest 2600 game. eBay before year 2000 had really cheap games because very few Sumguy bidders used internet. About 10 years ago I passed up an Intellivision II and bunch of CIB games for $20. I assumed it'd be junk because there was no adapter for the console and both controllers were missing number pad, which is likely completely worn out. I should have gotten it for the games. I can't remember what games though. But $20 is friggin steal these days. That's all I can remember. There were lots of time that I missed the stuff because I was a few seconds too late to spot them in Goodwill or yard sales.

Neutopia is an OK game. It was considered Zelda rip-off but if you ignore that and play it like a basic RPG game, it can be fun. I've had TG-16 since I got it for Christmas gift, and I also got Turbo CD system from Toys R Us for around $50 on clearance sale. (I see the CIB CD system can fetch over $400) Been thinking of selling the setup and buying a Duo instead, smaller and more for playing rather than for collecting. I also got Everdrive and it's a boon for game player who just wants to play and not shell out over $50 for a single semi-common game or over $100 for kissass adapter just to play import games. FYI The upcoming TED 2.0 features increased memory which will let it play Populous (card version, not the later CD version). It still will not run Arcade Duo/Pro or Tennokoe (needs a lot more RAM). TED 2.0 is mostly for people who may want to test or play future homebrewn game with extra RAM. The component location changed as well, TED 2.0 should fit SuperGrafx better. If you have Populous game and don't care for homebrewn game, an used TED 1.x could probably be bought cheap in a few months when people buys 2.0 and sells their 1.x.

The springs in the gun magazine are designed stronger for heavy use. NES deck is nothing more than 72 thin leaf springs and it takes just one worn leaf spring to lose connection with the cart connector. But it's more of dirty contact than weak spring that doomed front loading design, there's no rubbing on the pins so corrosion and dirt builds up easily than on cart slots that doesn't use ZIF design. (computer CPU gets away with ZIF socket because most people install it once and leave it for years, no repeated inserting and removal like NES carts)

Might be an issue with Game Genie. Galoob did have to issue an alternate version for top loading NES because the original version was hard to insert due to having thicker PCB.

/grave digging Zaku isn't available for sale anymore, they have sold 600 and currently has no plan to make more. eBay sellers wants too much for it and too many bidders for me to get one cheaper. So maybe you could make it available? It may not run in current emulator but it may work fine in a flash cart on real Lynx. I still will buy one if Zaku gets produced again, the box and label are too nice to not have one!

Ditto. The other flash cart also looks good but I'd rather not need a device to reprogram it. SD card based is easier for me. I am not paying an arm and a leg for a few late Lynx releases like Desert Strike or Super Off Road. Sadly it seems Zaku rom is not available and the game is going around $150 or more on eBay. For some reason AA guide does not have Zaku listed at all, like it's not a Lynx game? PS where is Geo Duel or Hyperdrome ROM? Telegames not liking it leaked? There's quite a few other games, mostly proto that doesn't have ROM floating around.

Going to have to put this on PowerPak and play it.