7800fan
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Posts posted by 7800fan
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Get a picture of your board, both sides. Maybe we can spot a mistake you overlooked? Making EPROM board out of old 2600 board is easy to do since most of the pins are correct.
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I've used Itead before, they always delivered exactly what I submitted so any error is usually my fault and not theirs. The turnaround time is usually 2-3 weeks from submission and payment before I get them in my hands. USA has loose custom so shipment to other countries may take longer
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Or we could see if someone can make Batari-esque system for Lynx and let us code in BASIC equivalent.
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I have other methods of playing Lynx games on a full TV screen such as modded Xbox or Ouya. Wouldn't cut up my Lynx for that, although the new LCD is so clear!
But can you play XBox on a bus?
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The actual regulating is done further down the chain, at zener diode. It's supposed to dump excess voltage to ground while maintaining 5v across the spot. (seems like inefficient design BTW unless I misread schematic) If the diode or resistor failed, you won't get 5v regulation.
I'm almost afraid to ask, does your Lynx still work with 6v power? If so, you're lucky. Many component usually fries easily when you dump 9v due to failed volt regulator.
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AFAIK none of the Lynx comlinked game shares one display. Each player has their own display. So you will need LCD mod for each Lynx and separate VGA monitor each. There is one theoretical possibility: if you know of a video multiplexor that takes multiple video input and display them on one screen it could be used for Lynx. Those are commonly used for CCTV to show multiple security camera onto one display for easier monitoring. I don't know if there are VGA muxer or if you would need multiple VGA to composite converter for each Lynx.
Get a nice 100" LCD display and a 9-ways muxer and everyone can see up to 8 players at once (most are 2-4 players, one can do 8 players but theoretically Lynx can have unlimited players due to design of the cable but realistically the lag will kill massive multi-Lynx network)
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All Lynx 1? I remember when reading through Candle's LCD work that a few Lynx 1 had soldered on LCD rather than easy connector which would mean some work to remove the old LCD. I haven't had any Lynx 1 to take apart so I can't be sure.
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A really nice old school type RPG game like Ultima (U3-U5) early Dragon Warriors/Quest, first few Final Fantasy games for example. Some of the RPG games could probably be ported as early graphics were simple enough. Sound OTOH and actual game code would take more time.
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I got the parts in the mail yesterday so I took the time to do a mod one of my Lynx. It worked. I was playing Blue Lightning off AC power and I didn't notice any unusual warm up or other issue that may indicate a need for heat sink. The tiny regulator is more efficient than a more common (and cheaper) 7805 regulator but it is rather small. It's hard enough safely removing a few SMD parts without ripping up pads or traces that trying to solder in one (upside down too) needs a fair amount of patience.
Still 3 more to mod, 4 if I can find my dead Lynx (busted transformer) for second LCD replacement.
?? Please read my post above. It explains how the +ve terminal of the battery connects AFTER the diode / spot where OUT from 7805 should connect. The German mod forces the battery power to also go through the 7805 rather than after. The cut and wire IS needed if you want to regulate the 9V from the batteries.
Yeah my bad. I was looking at the schematic and I forgot for a moment that the battery connects *after* where the 5v regulator would be installed when one wants it *before* the regulator.
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Anywhere from free if you learn to code yourself and compile one. You would need to find someone with a flash cart to test your game on a real Lynx as emulator may not reveal obscure bugs.
If you want to make PCB to sell game rather than offer the code for people with flash cart, that can run up about a few dollars a pop plus chip and other parts needed, you solder the parts on.
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You could also ask for an used LCD that is 100% working. Quite a few has already replaced their Lynx's stock LCD with the new LCD and I'm sure some of them are still good.
Go for the complete LCD/reflector/CCFL set as it's rather difficult to remove the thin metal frame that holds the LCD to the reflector without bending the metal out of shape.
edit: no I don't have a good LCD to sell. I replaced the LCD that was full of "holes" due to degraded liquid inside the LCD panel. The next Lynx I plan to mod when I get the money also has LCD issues.
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And those I wanted are ending a week before my next pay,
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Air Raid for 2600. Not only does it not work right on some TV, it's still an ugly hack of another game and sold very poorly, I heard because it didn't work right so very few exists. I may pay $5 for one only because of the blue cart with T-handle. Not a penny more.
Atari Lynx
All the late release curved telegames releases, particularly off road and desert strike among others.
Super Asteroids Missile command is inexplicably going for $100 these days. I'd pay like $40 for it.
When did Super Asteroid/Missile Command start going for 100? I bought an used CIB copy some years ago on eBay for something like $30. I've been watching that 2 Telegames as well but even from other sources it's still a tad high. Super Off Road doesn't play well, seems very slow at first.
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This is the first time I've heard of 2600 with VGA output. How was it modded? Or is it RF, Composite, or S-Video to VGA adapter?
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Commando never came sealed in plastic. Probably wrapped by a game store or a guy with a machine. A decent Commando generally runs between $30 and $65. Most were played hard and didn't hold up well (lots of crappy boxes out there). Mint condition ones can hit $100. The problem with this one is that the plastic adds zero value, unless you are an uninformed collector. To me, it hurts the value since I can't verify the contents. If I needed it and if they opened it up, I'd offer maybe $40-50 for that one. Maybe slightly more if they had more pics and it looked really nice.
Notice the UPC bar were covered? Most likely it wasn't done at any major retail store like Toys R Us (they do have shrink machine, I found a few cheap games, they used to leave empty boxes of old games if they didn't have enough room for display with tickets. Later they reshrinked some games with clearance price tag inside)
Either it was done at a game reseller store or by a dishonest person trying to pass it for ultra rare sealed game.
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What I notice on this video (at least to my eye) is apart from the obvious better brightness and colors, the screen is also a LOT faster. Of course game speed remains the same but the changes on the screen are much faster. Maybe thas also makes the games easier to play Nathan Sttrum...
It is noticeably less laggy on the screen due to superior refresh rate compared to LCD of 25 years ago.
But don't trust the video. Even though I have 2 BL Demo carts and turned both on at the same time, I noticed after several minutes one was running demo a few seconds ahead than other, even though both still appeared to be running at the same rate. I don't know if there's timing variations during the manufacture or if there's a few software code variations with different wait time on repeating loops.
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A fixed iron 20-30w should be OK for soldering but you may have a bit of trouble desoldering and removing unwanted part with lower heat iron, especially that transformer.
So it comes down to how badly you want to start playing with the new LCD. Do you want to risk a $100+ hardware to older iron or spend a few days for a new soldering iron?
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Cool but I see one problem with the cases: when you have more than 50 Lynx games those cases would start to take up a lot of spaces. Without the case, I can fit my entire Lynx game collection into one large Lynx bag. With the case, I would need a few Gameboy style game cases like the grey and purple Nuby bag that holds about a dozen.
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Remind me to check that later.
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It's a switching regulator, not linear like 7805 and shouldn't need heatsink. Those Germans did it without heatsinking theirs.
I did a quick check, the + terminal of the battery is directly connected to the power rail at the cathode end of the diode so it seems odd one would need to cut the trace and then run a wire there to get power from battery to the new regulator. I checked some more, the trace also goes through inductor L17 to possibly resistor R86, and also goes to power jack. I haven't removed any part yet but the schematic may not be quite right, there are probably other changes beside part number when Atari redesigned Lynx II.
Looks like I may need to dig out my Lynx #5, the only one that is truly dead and start removing pieces to get better track of the circuit traces. Now where did I leave that one...?
Unless by chance someone finds the correct Lynx II schematic?
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I have tried to do a side by side comparision of the old vs new LCD and I think I need something much better than a crap camera that doesn't handle white balance well.
If I adjusted my camera to favor the new LCD, the old one becomes really hard to see, like trying to play it outside under strong sun without the sun visor. If I adjusted the camera to favor the old LCD, the new one is bright and washes out everything. Anyone with 2 Lynxes, one new and one old LCD, and a decent camera with good manual white balance adjustment?
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For my install, I picked up the following voltage regulator (while purchasing an NESRGB kit for a customer):
http://etim.net.au/shop/shop.php?crn=206&rn=547&action=show_detail
It's the OKI-78SR-5 Switching Regulator (5V). I then followed the German instructions (except I forgot to remove ZD13/I left it in place, I believe it might be needed for the small LED light in the front of the unit, oh well. All works great). In any case, I think a good switching regulator is much better than a 70's technology 7805 or 90's tech 7805 reduced to the size of surface mount. Once the mod is done, I don't like to get into the system to fix it.. EVER. (this is why I also did a full cap kit).
The instructions online are correct. The +VE terminal of the battery holder should touch the pad of D11 that's closest to that big cap. In this mod, it's labelled "OUT" in pics lower in the post. What this mod does is send the power from the batteries through the voltage regulator as well! (original design did not do that).
If you insist on using the other regulators, keep this in mind. All regulators must have 3 pins:
- IN - unregulated power in (from DC plug or AA batteries)
- GROUND - to drain extra voltage to
- OUT - regulated 5V power
In your 2nd pic, it doesn't seem you have it connected correctly. top rail in schematics is 5V. bottom rail is GND. (rail = horizontal line going across entire picture)
The middle pin and the tab are both 5v output. The person choose to solder the tab directly to the 5v rail and break off the middle pin. The left pin is Vin and right pin is ground. On Lynx motherboard, the ground and Vin is opposite so the regulator was soldered in upside-down to match the pins.
I should have mentioned the tab is soldered to 5v rail in the schematic
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Starting with the obvious: check the cart slot. I've seen black screen when Intellivision doesn't have good connection with the cart. Clean, clean, and clean them some more. Intellivision has a weird setup and it actually does refuse to work if it can't get good connection with the cart. Not like other consoles that displays scrambled screen, funny sound, or crashing while playing,
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Started hitting Google with different search terms and I managed to dig up:
http://www.pcenginefx.com/forums/index.php?topic=16879.0
with these pictures: http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/TNK2/1.png and http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/TNK2/2.png and part list at http://www.retrosampling.se/Temp/TNK2/TenNoKoe2%20Components.txt
Common 2kx8 SRAM chip, could probably substitute the convoluted array of parts with a single battery watchdog or use NVRAM with compatible pinout and not worry about losing data for *years*
There is one problem: Hudson Soft HuC 6201 is a propriety chip with no detail on its gut. So that leaves 2 options: One hack and steal the chip from a Ten No Koe or other memory system. (I'd cry if someone ripped up a Turbo Booster Plus for the chip!) Two: prod some experts to reverse engineer it and make a FPGA or CPLD substitute (pretty sure a PAL won't cut it). I'm guessing its function is to monitor the bus at expansion port and connect with SRAM to pass data when requested.
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Atari 2600 home made cartridge: dont works
in Hardware
Posted
You say you have 0 ohm on every address. Did you check if there's accidental short between address lines? Say for example, A8 and A9 should be infinity but if it is not off scale high, you might have a bridge or a bad connection somewhere.
I would assume data lines are fine since you saw 00000 on screen briefly before it crashed. That suggests the data lines are working at certain address range.