Jump to content

Ute

Members
  • Content Count

    153
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Ute

  1. Interesting. We could make the enemies always spawn near Bruce - Maybe that should be an option in the settings menu....
  2. On a separate topic, we would like recruit some volunteers for help with the music and intro screens. Philsan had a nice conversion of the C64 screen as long as we had permission from Spark the original designer. Or would Philsan or others be interested in creating a whole new intro screen? Thoughts or ideas?
  3. As it is now, it's more challenging than the C64 version. We are tweaking it for a better balance. We will probably need a few play testers in the future to get some feedback. Of course we'll keep everyone posted when we're near that stage.
  4. Yeah, DMX was very cool to let us have the levels and let us copy his ideas. Fantomas also wanted to do a Bruce Lee 2 Atari port. So that will probably be the next effort, again time pending and that will probably require much more coding.
  5. This one is most certainly harder. For example, The C64 Bruce actually jumps a tiny bit further than the A8. The game screens translated directly to the Atari so the jump gaps are the same size pixel wise, but since the A8 Bruce does not jump as far, you have to be on the very last pixel possible to make certain jumps. Another example Normally the 'Fires' or whatever you want to call them disappear on this screen when the lamps are collected. In this version they do not, so timing has to be perfect. I can beat the original game without losing a life. I can't win this game, hence above why I have two videos(And that's with cheating starting on that screen). So it should be plenty challenging.
  6. There are many elements still missing, but the main game is now playable all the way through. ROFAA.mp4 ROF2AA.mp4
  7. If I remember right, one side of the pins are ground - Odd pins IIRC, the rest just need to be matched up as TGB1718 suggested. Attached are diagrams I used to make them. Connector2.tiffRibbon2.tiffRibbon1.tiffDin.tiffConnector1.tiff
  8. Yes I was planning on asking Tix if we could use his sprites, thanks for asking for me, lol.😀 Yes thank you Tix, we were wanting to include them in our ROF as well as having a version with the original sprites too.
  9. No extra time off, but we just started working on ROF. Hopefully we will have something to show in a few weeks, and a complete game before the end of the year.
  10. I might be biased because I had one as a kid, but I love my 130XE - I have an 800, 800XL, and a 130XE. Out of the three I use the 130XE the most, it is a permanent fixture on my desk next to my PC.
  11. I bought my cable from Kabelheinz on eBay but any cable such as the one English Invader posted above will work just fine. I also purchased a Scart to HDMI converter such as https://www.amazon.com/VCANDO-Converter-Adapter-Switch-Scaler/dp/B01N06Q9WH/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=scart+to+hdmi&qid=1588463014&sr=8-2 or https://www.amazon.com/Scart-Video-Converter-Scaler-Coaxial/dp/B00MUNIVRO/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=scart+to+hdmi&qid=1588463014&sr=8-8 The parts for the ST circuit are: 3 resistors 10K(R125), 100(R127), and 150(R126), Two diodes 1N916(or google an equivalent) and one transistor 2N9304 (or google an equivalent). Here is Peter's original schematic: Just follow the schematic and you'll be fine. Honestly it's probably the most clear ST picture I have. No special monitors, just right in to a modern TV - and the picture is clean and clear. A side note: Not all ST's follow this exact silk screen schematic, the one above is for the C070789. Silk screen may be different on another MOBO, but the component values should be the same, for example the C070520: Just make sure to get the diodes in correctly.😀 Hats off to Peter for this.
  12. Still in the works, but things have been more focused on creating a complete game editor so people can make their own levels. -Ute.
  13. Yes it's really feature rich, you can even view character sets.
  14. I prefer the WUDSN IDE by Peter Dell. It integrates a text editor, assembler, and will auto load your program in to an emulator when done compiling. https://www.wudsn.com/
  15. Yes, email Bruce(B and C Computer Visions) directly. He has IC's and many other things he does not list on his ebay site.
  16. I suppose you could just use SYS-Check V2.2 in your 800XL and 130XE. Edit: Might get tedious swapping the chips in and out.
  17. Hi Scottyy, I have thought some more about it. I'd like to start with one of the larger metal enclosures mentioned by doubledown. I liked the ones with the walnut on them: https://www.hammfg.com/electronics/small-case/general-purpose/1456cww But they are only about 14 inches wide and I think I'll need at least the 20 inch version for what I'm planning. I'm going to try and get a trackball, a single joytick, a paddle(or two), and 2 or 3 buttons all in one controller. This would cover 99% or even 100% of the games I want to play. I actually do not own a trackball at the moment so I need to get one before starting on any kind of template. How about you? Have you been able to build anything or get started with some ideas?
  18. Could you tell us where you are getting the shiny graphics and decals? They look good. I have had local companies make something similar in the past for arcades, but nothing shiny like the CX2600.
  19. I originally intended to mount a couple of 1M pots and put 2600 paddle tops on them. So the buttons are there waiting for the paddles to be installed, but I haven't got around to it yet. But you've given me some motivation with the trackball idea, so maybe the next version I make will have the paddles, trackball, and joystick. It will have to be bigger of course. I've built a few arcades, but never thought about them as a way to use the Atari. Cool idea. I might just follow your lead.
  20. Yes it's pretty much that simple. I used a couple of harnesses from some none working joysticks and wired them directly to arcade style joysticks and buttons. I never thought to use a trackball, but I'm sure it would work too. I encased one in a plastic enclosure, and the other I made out of particle board and put some veneer on it to make it look like a 2600. Edit: That is to say if you are using an old Atari trackball it would be simple. I've used an arcade trackball in a Arcade1up conversion, and that required an encoder - At least to use it with the Raspberry Pi.
×
×
  • Create New...