Ute

That's awesome. Glad to hear you got it working. Now you just need an UltraSatan

Interesting. I've never used the rotary encoder, I just have the two button version. A work around for now: When on screen shot 3, select an ST image and press F7 this will select the current highlighted entry and reboot the machine and load that program. You may want to contact the seller and see if he can give you more info on the rotary version. Edit: Another thought, make sure each ST image is in its own folder, and the only thing in the root directory are the two boot files. Also make sure they are ST Images and not MSA files(.ST vs .MSA extension), Gotek will only load .ST files. Edit #2: This video may be helpful? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=31l7Tj-1yIM

Exactly. And in reality, unless you only ever play a few games or programs, have an extremely good memory, or have all of the mapped slots printed on an excel sheet - then most of the time you're going to be switching back to 000 and hitting reset and remapping the slots.

Keep in mind it's not with each swap, just every time you want to boot from a different slot. You could have a game spanning multiple disks each disk in a separate slot. When the game ask for the next disk, just access the next slot and continue. Yeah, it's a trade off. The convenience of not having physical disks, but having to reset in between each time.

In his case he has a rotary dial, and it's as simple as twisting it to the next number. Other Goteks have up and down buttons that raise or lower the number respectively. Lets say you Dungeon Master mounted in slot 001, Startglider on 002, and A word processor that can boot from TOS in slot 003(Or any ST image file that boots to the desktop). You turn the dial to 001, play DM until your done, turn the dial to slot 002, press reset and it will boot in to Starglider. Now you want to run the Word processor, turn the dial to 003, and press reset. Tos will boot up and you can run your program from inside Tos. You can boot from any slot. That's the beauty of the Gotek, as long as its been mounted on the initial screen, you can quickly access the other slots. Even if you power off the computer, the config file on the USB will remember whats in the slots and what slot was last booted from. The only time you need to switch back to 000 and reset is when you want to switch what is in the slot numbers. With the latest software you can have up to 1000 slots.

I use the Hxc emulator file for Amiga and ST stuff. Just copy two files to the root directory of your USB: HXCSDFE.CFG, and AUTOBOOT.HFE from the ST folder in this file:https://hxc2001.com/download/floppy_drive_emulator/SDCard_HxC_Floppy_Emulator_Manager.zip There may be other software or ways to do it, but the Hxc file is super easy and quick. EDIT: After re-reading the thread, Vattari had already mentioned that, sorry.

So saying drive 2 was wrong terminology, they are actually slots or more like different disks that can be swapped out quickly. I've attached screen shots that might help. As the others have said, turn the dial so that the Gotek display reads 000, then reset the computer. You should see screen shot 1, then a few seconds later screen shot 2. Press enter. Use your arrow keys to navigate to the directory and press enter to display the contents of that folder(Screen shot 3) then the Gotek will ask which slot to place the file in(screen shot 4), usually just select slot 001. You can then navigate back out to where your blank ST disk image is and save it to slot 002. Turn the dial on the Gotek to select slot 001 and reboot the machine. Now the Gotek will try to boot from whatever is in slot 001 - in this case DM. When you are at the saving screen in DM, turn the dial to select slot 002 on the gotek and DM should see it as a blank disk, just like if you had swapped disks on a real drive.

Once you get the Gotek up and running it should behave like a normal drive. I can't remember the specifics of saving a DM game, but if I recall correctly you click on the disk icon and it asks you to where to save and also asks for a filename. It should save it. You may need to create a blank ST disk image and place it in drive 2, but I don't remember if DM allows that or it saves directly to the game disk. PP, has a great program for making ST images blank or otherwise: http://www.8bitchip.info/atari/floimgd.php

I think I've confused people about what I'm saying. Hopefully this screen shot clears it up. CRT on the left, LCD on the right. You can see the lag, guy on the left has completed his somersault. But more importantly the response time and the point I was trying to make in the other posts, a ghost/fuzzy/blurry image, because the pixels can't update fast enough. YouTube video where screen shot was taken: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1JUbCoLKxs

I agree that the Sophia is a nice option to have moving forward as CRT's are becoming harder to find and more expensive. And I also agree 2ms is not a huge lag time. I was sort of mixing two thoughts together above and I mistakenly said refresh rate when I meant response time(the rate at which a pixel can change color). A 2ms response time however is very slow. The response time of a CRT's pixels is over 1000 times faster than an LCD. The only thing that comes close to a CRT's response time is an OLED/QLED at 10us, and right now those are quite expensive and that's still over ten times slower. And funnily enough they get screen burn in just like a CRT. But anyways, I'm just saying when combing lag time with response response time, I get why people like to hold on to CRT's.

Well said. And even if you can afford one, 2ms is still noticeable lagg when you compare it side by side with the 1 micro sec refresh rate of the average CRT.

Peter, TOS is Good. Satan Disk booted on the first try. Yes TOS 1.04 with all the goodies. Is the 6 chip same price as 2 chip? Thanks for all your work!

DarkLord, do you remember the name?

Try Atari Image Workshop https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f7xXcp7dbPkc0zdqgBb3SOGe7o8JrUkw/view This page describes how to use it http://ataristandalonegames.blogspot.com/2017/12/atari-image-workshop.html

Well I had hoped I would not have to modify the motherboard. What about a 6 chip version of a SatanDisk Modded 1.04 ?

Yes, I would like to try out a modded TOS, it would have to be the 6 chip version.If I understand your website correctly I can get a TOS 2.06 combined with improved 1.04 for the regular 1040ST?

Tried a full 3 minutes, no luck

I've recently purchased a SatanDisk and installed the drivers. When powered on initially the Atari/TOS doesn't recognize the SatanDisk, until a reset is performed and then it will recognize and boot from the SatanDisk. After talking with the creator of my particular version and friend who owns another version, I've come to understand this is normal behavior for the SatanDisk. Is this normal for the UltraSatan or will it boot up when first powered on?

I've also had good luck using Acetone for cracks. For larger chips where a good portion is missing I've made what I call 'Atari plastic' for lack of a better description. I had a 130XE where I removed the RF Modulator and I wanted to fill up the round hole that was left. I ended up cutting small pieces from another damaged 130XE case, put them in a Mason Jar, poured Acetone over the top and covered them over night. It made a sticky, nasty smelling goop, but I was able to fill the old hole and make it look very similar to the original plastic.

You're right, we have gotten off topic. Yes let's please get back on topic. All I'm asking is that you please stop posting that I attacked you.

You keep accusing me of attacking people, please post the link of this thread or any other on Atari Age where I attack someone. All you have done is attack, your latest implication from above "Most people understand that." In an earlier post you mention something about debate technique. Naturally I assumed you knew about debate. In debate class they teach you about Ad hominem attacks where you attack a persons character, trait, intelligence, etc. It is a fallacy and is considered weak. You get penalized in debate competitions for it. So when I point out that it is a weak move, it's an observation about your debate tactics and not an attack. And yes it is a projection of ones own insecurities. So I did assume that, but you brought it up so.....

Exactly my point in an earlier post. I'm just just glad you didn't get attacked for your point of view.

So did you actually head your own advice and read the article. If you had you would have read at the end the author actually owned an Apple 2e. This is called BIAS, and can only ever be an opinion. Also in the beginning of the article he sets down certain criterion for what the greatest PC's ever should be, only in such a way that it favors the Apple 2 as the winner of the article. This is called Confirmation Bias. And if you are dead set on the scientific method of 'fact' finding you'd have realized confirmation bias is one of the biggest fallacies of a scientific argument. Then you added condescension to the mix with your "Folks should re-read so they have some semblance...etc." And the reason for this particular thread is for people discuss/argue their opinions. Take as many looks you need until you get some semblance of what the discussion that was really suppose to be taking place here. That's the point, without trying to insult everyone else's intelligence. Again with the condescension and that somehow your intelligence is on trial here, and it's not these are just discussions. It's a weak move to try and discredit someones intelligence because you disagree with them. But something people do when they don't have an argument - Myself included. And why are you so bent on defending that article about Apple2 being the best anyway? I don't get it. As an Atari forum I would think that we would all want Atari on the top of any opinion based list.

I don't dispute the Atari at all, only the results of the article saying Apple 2 was the best pc ever and leaving the c64 off the list completely.

Ha he he, the bread bin. Nice. All you really said above is: People who disagree with me, keep reading until you agree with me, otherwise you don't really understand what your reading. It's all an opinion no matter how many times you want to read it.