Jump to content
Have You Played Atari Today?
2600|5200|7800|Lynx|Jaguar|Forums|Store  

Coldheat

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    38

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Coldheat

  2. Posted

    Yes. I used a multi meter and did a continuity check between each of the 9 pins in the connector against the points soldered to the board and found one of the pins had an open. I cut the connector off and replaced it with https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066HQ7S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it now works. I do have a few extra optical sensors I picked up on eBay in case someone thinks it could fix their issue I would gladly sell (cheap) But I only have 5 I think. Have to look.

  3. Posted

    Ok so I ordered 2 of the optical sensors and it did not fix my issue. I did a search and found some schematics for the roller controller. So I broke out my multi-meter and began to test pins. used the known working sensor and compared the voltages on the IC inputs and outputs for each sensor according to the schematics. (I have a little background in electronics so I can reasonably understand the circuits.) When spinning the optical roller I did see a Hig/Low or 5v/0v signals where there should be. I noticed even on the one I replaced it was also reading fine so I don't think the sensor that i replaced is bad. I traced it down to pin 9 of the actual 9 pin connector (From the board to the connectors end). Since it is molded plastic I can not open it to see if a pin came loose or a solder joint is broken. I could not get any continuity until I cut off the end and striped the pin 9 wire. So I am ordering some db9 connectors and I am going to replace both connectors. I will update this thread as soon as I get the parts.

     

    It would be easier just to solder a cord from another unit but I dont have one...lol.

     

    The Schematics:

    http://www.theadamresource.com/schematics/index.htm

     

    The DB9 Conector

    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066HQ7S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

     

  4. Posted

    Thanks for finding the part. I bought one recently for $25.00 but they did not know if it worked. The left/right doesw not work. If this fixes it then it cost me 35.00 since I am buying 2 sensors in case. I will let you all know if this fixes mine...

  6. Posted

    At some point in the thread, I saw you ask interest on the fat/original PS2. Id be interested in that. But I have the Ethernet and HDD adaptor on the back, so it would need to accommodate that.

     

    Its basically a rectangle on the back of the PS2 that is about a half inch thick, and probably about 3 inches tall by about 6 inches wide. So extra material would been to be left on the back to make it fit. Not sure if a cover could be made that would accommodate that, and still fit a normal PS2, albeit a little loose.

     

    I will be sending in my fat PS2 to him to make the cover soon and it has that adapter.

  8. Posted

     

    Guys, I can't thank yoy enough. As I said what I could do as a thank you is sending the miniboxes through physical email for you to fold and glue by yourselves.

    Coldheat, I dont know if you checked my other threads but if you dont, here's an example if how people send me the pics. They usually take global hd pics of each side and some close ups pics of parts that would be hard to replicate so I can use that whole part at the replica art. Here's the link of the example: https://m.imgur.com/a/Hs8Ao

    KylJoy, you already know the drill. And Im still studying the best way of doing the styrofoam oarts...

    Let me know of you need anything from me.

     

    All the best and thanks again

     

    Leonardo

     

     

    Sorry its taken me so long/ I have the box right here and I will look at the information.

  12. Posted · Edited by Coldheat

    Wow A set of these just sold for $300.00 on ebay. I watched out of curiosity. I have a set but don't have intentions of selling them but man if they go fro that kind of price....lol

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Supplemental-Overlays-Pack-for-INTV-Intellivision-Flashback-Never-Used-/381985945582?_trksid=p2047675.l2557&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&nma=true&si=XAupYN1Cji67JdrfyWycZMFSlE8%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc

     

     

    Although after looking at the bids I am suspicious of the one that won with a feedback rating of (1) But nevertheless the bid just before that looks real and was still offering 300.00.

     

    Well I am no Ebay expert so take that with a grain of salt....

    • Like 1

  14. Posted · Edited by Coldheat

    How many would be interested in a Turbografx 16 cover? I would be willing to send mine in and loan as a template. I think the Turbografx 16 has a strong collector base. I have bought almost all of the covers so far. Soon as I finish my game room which should be an a few weeks I will post pictures to show my appreciation for all the work they have done for the community.

     

    IMG_0123_zpssxfqz7ds.jpg

     

     

     

    IMG_0124_zpse6doz9rm.jpg

    Needs a cover.....

     

    IMG_0125_zpskhqvyqjc.jpg

  15. Posted

     

     

    attachicon.gifIMG_0030_zpskt3jdx6b.JPG

     

    Where do you have pin 31 actually soldered from off the GTIA? I'm asking because in the photo above it looks like you have pin 26 through that hole? If you look on mine in the pics I posted earlier, you will see where I have a small wire connecting pin 31 off the GTIA to that point. Just making sure...?

    Where do you have pin 31 actually soldered from off the GTIA? I'm asking because in the photo above it looks like you have pin 26 through that hole? If you look on mine in the pics I posted earlier, you will see where I have a small wire connecting pin 31 off the GTIA to that point. Just making sure...?

     

     

    Sorry I should have explained that. I soldered a short wire and ran it underneath then up through the board. So yeah it does look like I soldered pin 26.

  16. Posted · Edited by Coldheat

    I finally got the mod installed. At first I was getting a solid yellow screen. I doubled check all my connections and found nothing connected wrong. I still did not work so I did a continuity check and thought I may have a short on the 5 volt line to ground. So I moved the 5 volt line to another spot on the board and tried again with no luck.

    I pulled the wires from the S-video and re-soldered everything and it still did not work. I figured I fried the board. One last ditch effort I removed the TIA chip and re inserted it and it Worked!!!!

    Thanks for the tips and the screen shots. Crossbow your FB page also helped.


    post-41038-0-83526100-1479234828_thumb.jpg

     

    post-41038-0-84759400-1479234829_thumb.jpg

     

    post-41038-0-92345700-1479234830_thumb.jpg

     

    post-41038-0-03009200-1479234832_thumb.jpg

     

    post-41038-0-10067300-1479234833_thumb.jpg





    • Like 1

  17. Posted

     

    I did. I attached a wire to R50 (second to last pic) and then attached the capacitor to that wire. If you look at the first image that shows the whole board, you can follow the white wire from R50 to this lump underneath some yellow heat shrink tubing. That lump is the capacitor. I didn't want to solder the capacitor directly to the POKEY (no reason you can't do that) and found R50 on my board (early 4-port) is the 1k resistor in the diagram. I added the wire from R50 so I'd have some flexibility in moving the wire rather than just soldering a capacitor leg right to the board. I could have put the cap right on the RCA jack instead, but I didn't think ahead and had already wired the jack up at that point. And I could have perhaps crimped the female Dupont connector pin directly to the cap's leg, but I felt more comfortable adding a couple inches of wire between the leg and the connector. So what I did works, but I probably made it more complicated than it needed to be.

     

    Ok thanks. I see it now. I am planing to do mine in the next day or so. This helps a lot since there is not a lot on the net that shows details like this.

  18. Posted · Edited by Coldheat

    So the instructions on the web site says to attached a 1uf capacitor for the sound output. Did you do this? If so where did you place it?[/size]

    4. Locate the correct sound pickup point.
    A typical Atari sound circuit is shown on the included POKEY chip diagram. Locate a spot on the board that is tied to pin 37, which will be where the 1uf capacitor is attached for the sound output connection (this will be done later.) Atari%20POKEY.jpg

     

    Use the above pin-out for correct wiring to mod board. Use the included 1uF capacitor for the audio out connection with the negative end connected to the center of the RCA jack and the positive soldered to the audio point you found earlier on the Atari board. Plug the GTIA connector into the mod board and make sure the pin connections are correct.

  19. Posted

    “The Coleco Chameleon is still alive and well by debuting the fully functional Coleco Chameleon Dev Kit at the annual Midwest Gaming Classic for the reasonable price of $12,000 US Dollars. Be the first (and only) one to develop new cartridge based games for the system. The kit includes a clear cased Chameleon complete with a fully functional DVR board, two Super Chameleon Controllers, the new Chameleon Remote control used to simulate the famous rest bug found at the Toy Fair in NY, and last but not least a fully operation Chameleon 30 inch LCD monitor. Hurry now before this one and ONLY dev kit is sold.


    The owners of the Chameleon say the cost should be enough to cover the price of the molds used to make the clear cases.”


    6409c911-6445-4a7a-aa1f-a8d8b98dd729_zps


    e118ee15-a3ce-49b2-be22-4d9e6fc25067_zps


    e5d1adc4-88e7-4b1d-baa4-1fb90b297910_zps


    In all seriousness I did come across this mockup at the Midwest Gaming Classic. And at first I said, No way is this for real, are they really trying to sell a dev kit at the show. Then I saw the price and the words parody. Then I talked with the guy who put this all up and he said it was all for fun. I don’t post much but I could not resist.




    • Like 16

  21. Posted

    This is an old thread but I just purchased this variant off ebay it seems. It looks to be in good shape even though there is no manual so I jumped on it since it was 17.00 plus shipping....Its the same box as shown and comes with a cart with no label. At first I thought man I might have ordered a fake or reproduction but now that I found this thread maybe not or I just bought it from the OP...lol

     

    Maybe this variant never came with a manual?

     

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/201413455447?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

  22. Posted

    I am working on a project that I hope will pan out soon. One of the topic is collecting the 9 launch titles. I am looking for anyone here who ever bought one of the original nine back in 77 or if anyone has completed that collection and the story of how you acquired them

     

     

    It would be great if you would PM me so I can elaborate what this project is about and hopefully some good stories for collection the launch titles....which will be shared in the near future....

     

     

    Feel free to give stories here to share with Atariage! Looking forward to hearing some of your stories....

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  25. Posted

    The one I have is a little less nice, but still in very great shape. I bought it from Craigslist in a town 40 miles away.

     

    Nice pickup

    Yea it’s defiantly rare to find this game is such good condition. It’s almost like no one ever played it.

AtariAge
Forums
Store
General
Follow AtariAge

Copyright ©1998-2021 AtariAge

×
×
  • Create New...