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Everything posted by vattari

  1. Great photos. I’ve got the original Retrotink 2x and was quite disappointed with it. I’ll try it again to see if some other factor (cables?) was affecting it Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  2. You probably need to leave more of your emotions out of your posts, Petar. English is also my first language and I write professionally so qualifying my answer as it’s an opinion is fine. As it appears, you haven’t used the SCSI2SD product yourself to make any personal observations. Once readers get past your critical language of the person you’re replying to, you do generally have something worth contributing to the discussion though. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  3. I don’t believe the SCSI2SD partitions the SD card in a Windows compatible format. Keeping in mind, your SCSI2SD utility sets up virtual drives across the SD card, and your Atari HDD driver will then create partitions within those. Would be interesting to see if it’s extended partitions the SCSI2SD utility is creating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Slightly off topic, but I use the TransferWise site/app for sending money in international currency. The fees and conversion rate aren’t exorbitant either. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  5. I’m in the same position with my 1200XL and Antonia (original ROMs removed as well) but I was using an SIO2SD device. A lot of the software doesn’t run except for some early Atari titles. My MyIDE2 cartridge crashes most of the time after displaying some screen corruption. I used the Power Archiver software (https://www.powerarchiver.com/ ) on the PC to extract version 1.4 of the software. I installed this on my SD card on the SIO2SD, but when I ran it, it would flash up “Remove Cartridge”. I have some keyboard issues which may include a temperamental OPTION key to disable BASIC. I stopped at this point with this project as I need to resolve the keyboard issues first....before I bombard Simius with questions. PM me if you’d like a copy of the files in a different archive format. I’d also be interested to know if you make any progress with the 1200XL/Antonia combination. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  6. Totally agree. The build quality is great, including the 3D printed case, and the variety of options available too (with and without joystick port, PS2 and/or USB mouse option, with and without LCD, etc). The pricing is reasonable too. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. There’s a video here on how to prepare the CF card on the Falcon: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. The only thing I’ve seen that’s readily available are the longer extension leads (and only for a single port as well). http://s.aliexpress.com/nqMrABFB I have a couple of the shorter, X like cables but wouldn’t mind a few more. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. To get all 3 resolutions, yes, that’s the way to go. Audio will need to go directly from the Atari to the display rather than via the OSSC because the VGA input (AV3) doesn’t have audio input. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Plus one to this approach. This is how I did it (took a couple of days though) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  11. I did order the remote with overlay. It’s by far the easiest way to navigate through the menus which you’ll do a lot of when setting this up Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  12. As long as you save it as a profile, you’re good to go each time. The image is sharp for all resolutions (I use 5x for colour and 2x for high res) Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  13. I was it with a SCART cable generally with the ST and an Amiga. I have one of the Chinese built ones (going by the price) plugged into a VGA / Audio switcher. In the switch, I have a Mega STE (via ST2VGA switch to allow all 3 resolutions*), TT and Falcon. All of them benefit of the OSSC’s line multiplier compared to the monitor’s scaler. * Some tinkering is required to tweak the image for high res. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  14. As soon as I saw the device on the video, I knew this wouldn’t work unless the LCD accept 15khz signal via HDMI. I went down this path a couple of years ago after watching another YouTuber claim the same (he actually made a follow up video with the correction, but I had already made the purchase from China). Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. I’ll also add - the Retrotink is a line doubler. I definitely prefer the OSSC at 5x mode. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  16. I have. I didn’t buy the Retrotink with the intention of using it with the ST (I already had an OSSC) but since I had a SCART>Component video converter, I tried the two together. The results were quite good. From memory, it worked out slightly cheaper than an OSSC only, but it’s a lot of cables and devices being daisy chained for the same result. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  17. I agree. The Australian market, back in the day, made being an Atari ST owner difficult enough. Finding a user group, fellow users out in the wild, and even a newsagent that stocked your favourite ST magazine was a chore (but also exciting when you found one). A repeat of that would inevitably make its non-sustainable product again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  18. Have you tried Disk 006 from the Automation Compacted Disks collection? http://steem.atari.st/automation.htm Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  19. As an alternative location for a Falcon PSU and VGA adapter, you can buy them from here, respectively: https://centuriontech.eu/product-category/atari/ http://gossuin.be/index.php/shop Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  20. As PLM pointed out, the Eiffel adapter is a good option. I use them on my Megas and TT. I recommend the ones being sold here: http://gossuin.be/index.php/shop Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  21. I just tried this on real hardware (firstly I must say, this is brilliant rework of the original) but found it was more difficult to collect the lantern highlighted in the screen below. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. To me, number 3 looks like he could getting away with singing Jailhouse Rock. I think #6 matches the photo the best. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. I can confirm 3.1 works fine though Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  24. @dafivehole, since you're in the US, where component video is more common, one option is the use of a SCART RGB to Component Video transcoder such as this one. https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1CGJS5R64LOA3&keywords=scart+to+component+transcoder&qid=1561863079&s=gateway&sprefix=scart+to+com%2Caps%2C400&sr=8-2 Add an Atari ST SCART RGB cable, and you can have a sharp image on common displays that support component video (in particular, the 240p/480i signal though). It's what I used in the photos attached.
  25. I have had a few Commodore monitors with the faulty switch. I've bought them with packing tape, Blu-Tak and other methods to keep the switch pressed in (all of which were messy). If you don't want the expense or expertise of replacing the switch, or a messy/sticky solution, then I suggest using tile wedge spacers like these: https://www.amazon.com/QEP-10285-Tile-Wedge-Spacers/dp/B000FK1UTK?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000FK1UTK It's cheap, clean and doesn't cause any damage. Simply pressed the power button in, and insert one of the edges between the button and its surrounding, and it will stay in. Pull the wedge out to turn off - simple!
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