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emerson

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About emerson

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    Chopper Commander

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    laserdiscs, old computers, old and somewhat new video games

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  1. Here is a USB Host controller IC that connects to a microcontroller via SPI. https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/products/interface/controllers-expanders/MAX3421E.html
  2. Lowered prices on most everything. Added some Panasonic AG-1970 vcrs, an N64, a Master System and a Sega CD. Casino Kid 2 sold. Moving computer stuff to VCF forums. Will accept any reasonable offer.
  3. Good, I'm glad everything works now. It's good practice to just leave those "purple jumpers" installed. It's easy to forget those power busses aren't connected in the middle.
  4. It seems like you may have VCC and GND wires crossed somewhere. Have you measured the voltage across every chip when the circuit is not working? Try putting jumper wires where I put the purple ones here. This is standard for most every breadboard I've come across. Edit: It can be a real pain, but if you can assemble your breadboard circuits neat and tidy like in these pictures, it really helps with troubleshooting when things aren't working right.
  5. It looks like you removed VCC from most of your chips. They shouldn't work without power, and the fact that your circuit works now is concerning with most of your chips not powered correctly. It's possible they're receiving parasitic power through the pull-up resistors at the inputs. I suggest fixing this before getting pcbs made.
  6. I simulated the circuit per your most recent schematic plus my instructions from before and received the following bits at the DATA output of the controller port. The ACK line seems to go low when ATT is asserted, and pulses with the clock. Otherwise it remains high. 1111 1111 1000 0010 1010 0101
  7. You are in fact using HC devices and not LS or some other ttl logic chip correct? The playstation may not like ttl level signals even if your circuit if working perfectly. When doing the manual test, place one LED on the QH output of U1 and a second LED on the DATA line of the controller port. An LED on 1Y0 of U6 won't hurt either to monitor the clock bus. ATT at the controller port should be pulsed high to lock the status of all '165 inputs. Use a resistor to hold ATT low and pulse high. Manually send clock pulses on the CLK input of the controller port. Use a resistor to hold CLK high this time and pulse low. Double check that CLK INH of all '165s are grounded. Also, you should tie any unused inputs to either VCC or GND. I'm looking at pins 11 and 13 of U6.
  8. I got this one from school and it's served me well. All my other ones are second hand. https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Twin-Industries/TW-E41-102B?qs=TqtMe0HCz7eOhjhxDJC55w%3D%3D It's been my experience that notation like 1k0 is using the k as a decimal place. For example, something like 1k2 is really saying 1.2k There are many ways to make a basic logic probe. Try typing "simple logic probe" into google images and see what comes up. You should be able to make one of those.
  9. I see in the schematic you posted that R1 is 1k but the schematic from the website in your first post has it at 22k. What is it on your breadboard? Just for grins, double check the orientation of D1. As stated before, manually clocking bits as a sanity check is a good idea. How old is your breadboard? It's possible that the connectors in the breadboard have been stretched out. I received some second hand breadboards once and it took me a while to figure out that was the problem.
  10. I had some time today to get at this project and got a finished installation. I'm working on assembly / installation instructions still but here are some pictures of the finished product. Once I get everything mailed out to the testers I will have to put this project on hold for a while, but I do plan to sell this mod once I get some other projects off my plate. I will post the plans to build it yourself at that time.
  11. Do the paddles move smoothly or do they jitter? My first suggestion would be to take either contact cleaner or 91% isopropyl and clean the pots. Open up the controllers, get your cleaning solution inside the pots and work them back and forth for a bit. Add more cleaning solution and work them some more, then blow them out with canned air or an air compressor to dry. It may take a few cleaning cycles. You can always remove the metal shroud on the pots for a more thorough clean but that can be tricky, do so at your own risk.
  12. Reflowing solder simply means melting the solder again to reconnect any joints that have broken over the years. You may hear these broken connections called cold solder joints, meaning a solder joint that looks good but really does not make connection. It's unnecessary to remove the old solder but it will help a lot to put some flux on the solder joints before reflowing or adding a bit of new solder that has a flux core. Flux helps prevent cold solder joints during the soldering process. Be careful using a soldering gun as those get very hot and can damage old circuit board traces or melt the plastic dsub 9 connector.
  13. It almost sounds like cold solder joints. If you have a soldering iron I suggest relowing the solder on the connector.
  14. Activision catalogs, atari catalogs, atari comics, atari promotional poster, misc promo sold. Descent I, descent II, and street fighter II sold. Thanks again everyone!
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