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About emerson

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    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    laserdiscs, old computers, old and somewhat new video games

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  1. Does this have what you need: https://kicad.github.io/symbols/Connector Also, have you considered making your own footprints:? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHH4G_EWhm0 Often times I don't even check if KiCad has the footprint or not. I'll make my own according to the datasheet or what I measure with a pair of dial calipers. It's really simple once you get the hang of it! One suggestion on making footprints based on measurements is to buy good namebrand calipers. Starrett, Mitutoyo, Helios and Fowler are a few I recommend. I tried those iGaging calipers and they're total junk.
  2. This was my thought as well. I don't see how it would affect burnt phosphors.
  3. Oh yeah! Glad to see Secret Santa back again! Just sent my info so count me in.
  4. What is the logic behind that exactly? Have you done this before and with what size/type of magnet do you reccomend?
  5. What I meant was a negative of the screen which burned the crt, not the crt burns themselves.
  6. That is something I did not consider, good idea! The only issue is for my particular situation this is a monochrome monitor and the only pc I have that's compatible is an ibm 5150, so no image editing software that I'm aware of. I would have to create a negative image of the burned screen in text mode which is possible.
  7. That was the idea. I think something else is wrong with the monitor because with both internal and external brightness adjustments at max it still wasn't that bright. Plus, the already burned spots might just burn more causing no visible change. I might try again when I can set up somewhere besides the middle of the floor.
  8. It's been almost a week with no visible changes so I'm shutting it down. I figure something would have happened by now. It was worth a try.
  9. Here is a rom I wrote while designing my rgb mod. It's a simple color bar program that helped me dial in my palettes. Hopefully you have a flashcart or some means of using it. color_bars.rom Why not just cherry pick your favorite colors from IMBerzerk, mthompson, and other palettes and make your own? No matter what palette you decide on someone else will want it different so I say do what works best for you. You are the developer after all! I would add a program header to your board so the end user can define their own palette, assuming they have the necessary equipment. In regard to the RGB->YPbPr circuit, I suggest making that a separate product all together. That way people can use it not only with your mods but any console that supports rgb. Having to buy rgb mods + separate converter boards for the quantity of consoles you intend to make this mod for would be quite upsetting to all but the most serious of rgb gamers I would think.
  10. I recently acquired an Amdek Video-310a MDA monitor and unfortunately it has burns in the phosphor. The burns are not as bad as some arcade monitors I've seen but still distracting when playing games. I recall the topic of fixing crt burns came up a while back so I figured I would post my results here. I realize this is not a fix and is really doing more harm than good. My IBM 5151 works well so I really don't need the Amdek and I'd rather have the knowledge then anything else. That being said, I do like the amber phosphor so if I can get it to a more tolerable state then cool. Here is the monitor at the start of the test. The burns are darker in person then what's visible in the photo. What's neat are the shaded gradients on either side of the middle text for they will serve as burn-in benchmarks. I will post more pictures as the test goes on. I've never tried this before so I have no idea how long this will take.
  11. The battery measures 2.6v when it's in circuit?! The battery should measure near identical voltage whether it's in circuit or not. Something is definitely not right... I measured the diodes on one of my boards. Resistance measurements were made with battery removed from circuit and striped leg of diode desoldered and lifted from circuit board. R-forward is with positive lead of meter on unmarked side of diode and negative lead on striped side, R-reverse with leads opposite. Vdrop is measured with the opposing power supply removed from the circuit. So when measuring the voltage across D1, the battery is installed and the cartridge is removed from the nes. When measuring the voltage across D2, remove the battery and have the cartridge powered by the nes. Measure voltage with positive lead of meter on unmarked side of diode and negative lead on striped side. R-forward R-reverse Vdrop D1 662R INFINITE 144mV D2 664R INFINITE 268mV Note that while general purpose diodes would work in a pinch, the diodes on nes boards are schottky diodes. Further reading including diode replacement part numbers available on the nesdev forums: http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11279 In addition to what I said previous post, the resistor that disables the ram chip not only prevents unwanted writes but also puts the ram chip in a low current state. This allows the batteries to last as long as they do.
  12. If you remove the battery and save to ram, the save file should be present as long as the nes provides power to the cartridge. The file will erase once you turn the nes off. Hitting the reset button should not erase the ram. If you want to test if the ram chip is okay, I suggest removing the battery and creating a save file, let the nes sit on for 10-15 minutes since you say that's when it erases, then reset the nes and try to load your save file. If your file is present then the ram chip and one of the diodes is likely okay. The diodes act like an analog or gate, allowing voltage from either the nes or the battery to power the ram while preventing the voltages from touching each other. The capacitor allows smooth voltage transition to prevent accidental erasure. One resistor regulates battery current and the other disables the chip when powered off to prevent unwanted writes. I'll try and remember to measure some diodes for you when I get home.
  13. There are several more issues with my mod than incompatibility with OSSC. It will certainly work for the homebrew arcade machine I designed it for, but I'd like to do better than that. You say your mod works with the OSSC? Or better yet, how do you have your intellivision hooked up to the tv/monitor in your photo? It looks like there is some blurriness around the edges of characters, is that just the photo or is it your mod? Anyhow good work!
  14. I realize this is a necrobump but for the relevance of the information I hope it's alright. I recently acquired an arkanoid controller from a fellow AA member that needed the cable replaced. I ordered one of the 7-wire extension cables from Console5 and it works well enough. I measured the internal wires as 28awg, and unfortunately they have those fiber strands in with the copper strands. Anyhow, here is a cheat sheet for anyone else who needs to replace their controller cable. I only bought one cable from Console5 so I can't verify the colors will be the same for all cables. Perform your own continuity test to be sure. Be sure to shrink wrap the unused wire. -----cable connector (looking into cable)----- ____ / 1 | / 7 2 | | 6 3 | | 5 4 | +-----+ CONN USE ORIGINAL CONSOLE 5 PIN COLOR COLOR ---------------------------- 1 GND green brown 2 CLK orange orange 3 LAT red black 4 D0 --- red 5 D4 blue green 6 D3 white blue 7 VCC black yellow -----pcb connector (component side)----- | | | | | | | | | | | | +-|-|-|-|-|-|-+ | O O O O O O | 1 6 PCB USE ORIGINAL CONSOLE 5 PIN COLOR COLOR ----------------------------- 1 VCC black yellow 2 D4 blue green 3 CLK orange orange 4 LAT red black 5 D3 white blue 6 GND green brown
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