Jump to content

emerson

Members
  • Content Count

    256
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

194 Excellent

About emerson

  • Rank
    Moonsweeper

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northeast Ohio
  • Interests
    laserdiscs, old computers, old and somewhat new video games

Recent Profile Visitors

4,071 profile views
  1. I would suggest finding a copy of '6502 Assembly Language Programming' by Lance Levelthal. If you google 'atarimania 6502 leventhal' you should be able to find a pdf download. While searching for the leventhal book I found another one that might be interesting, try searching 'atarimania interfacing the 6502'.
  2. The original ones do use IDE. You have to be careful with those new pre-built sata adapters because on some of them the ethernet port is just for show and is non-functional. In my opinion, your best bet is to get the bare mod pcb and install it in an original adapter. Either that, or like the OP is doing, buy one that's already complete and tested.
  3. If I had to guess there is some active circuitry inside those adapters which decodes the light gun information into the appropriate communication protocol for each console. I don't think simply re-arranging the wires will work. Your best bet is to either design a circuit that decodes the saturn controller protocol and converts it to the ps1 protocol, or just buy the gun again since building it yourself will certainly cost more. Never hurts to have backup hardware either.
  4. This wouldn't work without some circuitry or modding the genesis controller itself. The genesis controller will output one or two different buttons on a single pin depending on the logic state of the select line. Think of it like bankswitching. I haven't opened up one of the flashback controllers but the original ones are purely passive controllers, and I know you can adapt them with a passive cable, so logic would serve the flashback controllers function the same. Intellivision controllers output a grey code to identify the disc position and button presses. What you would need is some kind of circuit to shift in the buttons from the genesis controller and output the equivalent grey code to the intellivision. Also, there is no power available at the intellivision controller port so an external power supply would be required as well. Genesis controller pinout: https://pinouts.ru/Game/genesiscontroller_pinout.shtml Intellivision controller matrix: http://arcarc.xmission.com/Web Archives/Deathskull (May-2006)/games/tech/intvcont.html Passive cable pinout for flashback and original intellivision: https://atariage.com/forums/topic/252792-controller-repair-suggestions/?tab=comments#comment-3515455
  5. So the diodes and capacitor (there should be 10k resistor or two as well) supply power to the ram chip from either the console or the battery. You could test the cart ram by connecting VCC of the ram chip directly to VCC on one of the roms with a bit of wire. Create a save file then reset the console. If the save file is still there then the ram chip is probably good. I suggest replacing the battery while you're at it. A good battery will measure around 3.3V. Here is a schematic which has part values. http://forums.nesdev.com/viewtopic.php?t=8374 Is this your board? http://bootgod.dyndns.org:7777/profile.php?id=4270
  6. I believe this is the same but non-illuminated: https://www.alliedelec.com/product/marquardt-switches/1663-0101/70458884/
  7. This is the closest I could find: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Marquardt-Switches/16653102?qs=fgTiLP%2BNGFvgj%2BQmHnPNbg%3D%3D It recommends a 22mm x 30mm panel cutout. The actuator cap is illuminated green but you don't need to illuminate it. Don't know if that will be an issue or not.
  8. When you reseated the chips did you clean the pins and ic sockets? Double check they are installed in the correct direction and that no pins accidentally bent underneath the chips. It's possible whatever caused the corrosion inside also damaged the capacitors, have you checked those? Try reflowing the solder joints that had corrosion on them. Have you checked continuity of the wires that connect the main board to the rf modulator? Check for a signal on the video wire as well. If both of those are good, then check inductor L5 inside the rf modulator and ensure the video signal is getting to the 612178-1. If that all checks out, start looking at the video signals between the 612130-1 and 612160-1 chips. Ensure the logic gates on the video and blanking signals are good.
  9. The fact that your power supply measures a little high is not a big issue, especially if you're measuring it with an open load (without the console connected). Looking at the schematic, it appears the AC power runs directly to a full wave rectifier then to a 5V DC regulator. I'd assume your power supply is safe as is, as long as it can supply the necessary current. I use an original NES power supply with my Odyssey2. It's rated 9V AC but measures 10.65V AC open load. What channel is your tv set to? I notice when I set my tv to channel 3 I get the correct sounds but the picture is garbage. Setting my tv to channel 4 fixes it. Useful tech info: https://console5.com/wiki/Odyssey2
  10. Thanks for another fun Secret Santa Grig!
  11. Thanks to my secret santa for these awesome gifts! I received a little stocking with a tiny car, zelda pin and a candy bar which didn't last through the unboxing. I also got a european dvd of 'Day of the Triffids'. I've been wanting to expand my pal region dvds so double bonus there! I had heard of it but never played before, but the nes copy of 'The Guardian Legend' is very addictive. My brother and I played all day yesterday. This one deserves a close-up, it's a Clint Eastwood tree ornament! I don't know who likes it more, me or my dad. Thanks again secret santa!
  12. My uncle shared this with me this morning before work and it's only fair that I share it here with you all here and now. He heard it on the WWOZ radio station out of New Orleans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFxWv_L9_QY
  13. Looks like crt burn to me. This happens when the phosphors in the tube become damaged by having the same image displayed for extended periods of time with the brightness turned up too high. Very common with arcade machines. Looks like yours fell victim to a vcr or home video camera... There is no proper fix for crt burn. Your best bet is to find a compatible crt tube and swap the burned one out. A quick google search suggests "fixing" the burn by displaying an all white screen for several hours, but mind you this will just damage all the phosphor in the tube thus creating one giant burn. Do so at your own risk.
  14. That cut above the up button is disconnecting common ground from all other buttons besides the d-pad. It would help if you posted a schematic and also disclosed which wire color in your picture corresponds to which atari 7800 button. Have you considered using a master system controller? Oops, necro-bump...
×
×
  • Create New...