emerson

For sure interested. Thanks!

Still looking!

The Toshiba 110CS is still available

Famicom shells gone.

@Tanooki pm sent

Shells only. These were unfortunate donor victims.

Yes it smeared when I tried playing Prince of Persia. No sound outputs that I see. The laptop is pending as another party has expressed interest via pm.

Update with Pentium I laptop and famicom cart shells.

NES shells gone.

Free for the cost of shipping. You pay shipping. Continental US only please. This is a Telex MagnaByte 5080 LCD monitor designed for overhead projectors. It powers up to an internal boot menu but the screen has some dead lines. I suspect a bad zebra strip connection? As far as I can tell everything is included. l can gut this for some useful parts but I'm hoping it will go to someone who can repair and use it. 14lbs in 20x17x7 inch box from 44240 These are a few lamps for a 55" rear projection tv I no longer own. Take 'em both. Toshiba Satellite 110CS Pentium I laptop. It boots but no OS installed or corrupt hdd. No battery as it had bulged so I tossed it when I received this. The screen looks funky and uneven. This stuff will be up for grabs until May 23rd when Christmas with the Sanfords begins. Possibly more to come as I continue to clean.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions but I gutted this monitor for the usable parts and threw the rest away over a year ago when I found another amber monitor with notably less burn.

For this application a 1/4W 5% resistor is plenty sufficient. I suggest buying the resistors from Mouser as you'll pay like $0.10 per resistor, $3.50 residential shipping, and receive name brand parts.

Was kind enough to give me a free digital to analog tv tuner and also refunded the extra shipping costs when the original quote was too much. The unit was very well packaged. Overall a nice friendly person to deal with. Thanks again!

I think you have it backwards. If they didn't switch all pins it would defeat the purpose. I suppose if the box were made after serial modems died out then it could omit the ring indicator (pin 9) as a cost savings measure but in all the AB-Y boxes I've taken apart they switch every pin. These switches do not put both peripherals in parallel with each other, but rather connect only one device at a time to the output. There seems to be a misunderstanding here. This may be true for something like an IBM PC joystick that plugs into an actual RS232 serial port. Joysticks for systems like atari and commodore are entirely passive devices and do not utilize any type of communication protocol. Most every AB-Y box like the one you linked to will be entirely passive as well. The only similarity between a 9 pin RS232 serial devices and a 2600 joystick is that they both use a DE9 connector. DE9 is technically the correct name but DB9 is more commonly used. I suspect most of the folks around here that game on actual hardware don't mind unplugging a controller and putting it away when it's not in use. It's kind of like unplugging a cartridge and plugging another one in, isn't it? If you can find an AB-Y box that switches all 9 pins then your idea will work. Be sure to use a straight-thru cable between the AB-Y box and the console, not a null-modem cable. Also know that the metal connectors on this or any switch box will chew up the ends of your joysticks because they have dimples around the inside edges.

Thanks for the updated photos. So your electrolytic matches the values in my carts as well. Note the large white stripe with the dash, this is the negative lead indication I described earlier. The ranges you're referring to are all of the available capacitance values for the UPW and UVZ series of capacitors. For example, think of it like a set of drill bits starting from 1/16" and ranging up to 1/2". These series of capacitors start at 0.47uf and range up to either 15000uf or 33000uf. Does that make sense? You specifically want a 47uf 16v cap, which falls within the range of either series you posted above. If you look at either datasheet (I'm using UVZ for example) you see at the bottom right where it says "Type Numbering System" and details how the capacitor part number is derived. If you scroll down even further you find tables of capacitor values sorted first by rated voltages then capacitance. Page 2 of the datasheet has your 47uf 16v cap with part number UVZ1C470MDD. If we break this down with the type numbering system we get: Type - U Series- VZ Voltage - 1C (16v) Capacitance - 470 (47uf) Tolerance - M (20%) Configuration - DD (5mm diameter by 11mm tall) Now look at the part numbers for 470uf and 4700uf. See how the last digit increases by 1 for each order of magnitude? This serves as a multiplier for the first two digits and is common practice for electronic parts numbering in general. I copied the above part number into the search bar at Mouser and was presented with three different options. The only difference between these options is the packaging style, either loose parts in a bag or ammo pack where the leads of each part taped to a strip of cardboard. Heh, unfortunately neither of the parts from your datasheets above are available at this time. There is an "In Stock" filter when searching for parts on Mouser. I found 149 available 47uf 16v 5mm diameter caps there. I consider United Chemi-Con, Kemet, Cornell Dubilier, Vishay, Rubycon, Nichicon, Sprague and Illinois all reliable manufacturers.

Dopy25 and I have made a couple deals in the last year or so and I will speak to their credibility. A very nice and reliable person to deal with and overall cool person to talk to!

So I cracked open a few Genesis carts and both my Tengen Ms. Pac-Man and Mortal Kombat II use a 47uf 16v electrolytic and a 0.022uf ceramic. Note that ceramic capacitors are quite reliable. I was servicing a tube amplifier from 1959 over the weekend and the ceramic caps are still within spec. It is typically not necessary to replace them. Also, unlike electrolytics, ceramic caps are not polarized so they can be installed in either direction. I personally like to install components with the values facing upward to avoid situations like the electrolytic in your photo.

Based on the pcb labels C1 and C2 these are both capacitors. Also, through hole resistors almost always use a colored stripe system to indicate their value. I would guess the glass cap on the left is 0.1uf as this is a very common value to place across the supply pins of a digital chip. This could be replaced with a MLCC, or multi layer ceramic capacitor, or standard ceramic disc capacitor. The blue cap on the right is an electrolytic capacitor. It's capacitance value should be a number followed by the letters "uf" and it's voltage value is some numbers followed by the letter "V". Both of these should be printed on the cap itself. These are typically polarized with some type of indication pointing to the negative lead. It is important to install this correctly. Bend the blue cap up to see if the values are on the other side.

Oh man, I was raised on Unforgiven. One of his top 3 best films for sure! I'll take advantage of the free bump here. Everything not crossed out is still available. =====LOWERED PRICES===== - $5 are now $2 - $8 are now $5 - 25% off box sets and individually priced

I have yet to read the above article on electromigration, but several microchip datasheets will specify the chip can only be exposed to X temperature for X amount of seconds or else damage may result. SMD solder profiles are carefully tuned to, among other reasons, prevent heat damage to semiconductors. Therefore, I conclude that prolonged exposure to excessive heat will likely damage chips.

The 5k6 resistors prevent pins 4 and 38 from shorting directly to the transistors when the pot is adjusted for full mono. If a pot is not desired then the 5k6 resistors should be replaced with higher values to allow for decent channel separation. 12k to 22k rings a bell, but this greatly depends on how the user is listening (tv, surround sound, headphones, etc).

When I have cables that break at the strain relief I will use rubbing alcohol as a temporary lubricant and remove the inner cable from the strain relief (lots of twisting involved here). I will then slide the strain relief up the cable, cut the bad section off and strip the appropriate length of fresh wire. Then with a cotton swab apply a very small bit of acetone on the outer cable casing and slide the strain relief back down. This fuses the cable to the strain relief and gives a strong yet flexible mechanical bond, as well as a professional looking finish. This trick has saved many power supplies.

I wrote this test program to ensure your adapter is working properly. http://www.romhacking.net/homebrew/136/

Looks like some significant progress has been made on the rgb front. Good work! It's been quite a while since I've experimented with any Intellivision hardware mods but here's the forum post with my most recent audio circuit if anyone is interested. It could likely use a re-design as this was mostly plug n play with parts from the bin, and my transistor theory is very poor. https://atariage.com/forums/topic/287021-intellivision-stereo-mod/?tab=comments#comment-4202119