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Everything posted by Turbo-Torch

  1. There is plenty of information if you Google 1701. Was this a previous working setup? What controller card and hard drive are you using? Or is it a hard-card with the drive built right onto the card cage? Is the controller MFM or RLL and does the drive match? Are they made for Tandy? Maybe things changed with the TL, but my SL required a HD kit made specifically for Tandy. Have you accessed the settings menu and changed the boot option? If it's booting from ROM (which is C:), they're probably conflicting.
  2. A list of places that didn't sell 2600 games would probably be shorter. I bought games from... Zayre Venture K-Mart Wards Sears J.C. Penny Service Merchandise Tepes Riss Toys R Us Kaybee Child's World Goldblatts L.S. Ayers Camelot Music Playback Ribordy Drugs Harvey's Drug store Save More grocery store Last place would have been Big Lots in the early 90s.
  3. Incredibly boring. It most likely won't have an RS232 board either. Radio Shack used to sell an 8 pack of RAM chips for $8. Two sets would get you to 48K. I can't remember the # but they're probably still common and cheap. Funny thing, buying the "official" kit from the RS computer center would set you back $200 EACH...$400 to get up to 48K! Plus installation cost. Finding a disk controller board will be an issue. Up until a few months ago someone was selling off a huge stash of aftermarket boards on ebay for $30 but I think they are all gone. Full height disk drives are always available on ebay but no longer cheap and almost guaranteed to need an alignment. I have two systems and it took some time with a scope to get all 4 drives happy. 1/2 heights are more reliable but look stupid and ruin originality. Lastly, the base model has no "towers" to mount the drives to and the power supply won't handle even one drive. You'd have to fab up some towers out of sheet metal and add a separate power supple for the drive(s). RS232 board will be needed to download software from your PC using a null modem. I also love using mine to call BBSs using a 1200 baud modem. I've seen 1 or 2 board kits show up within the last year on ebay...you need the kit as it also includes the very hard to find mylar flex cable. $100 is a fair price but it'll mostly be a display piece for a collector. To have fun, you want a minimum of 32K and one drive. If you're patient, a disk based system will turn up for a good price. I have my original that I've owned since age 12 and it started off as a 16K base model. I first added memory, then the RS232 board to call Compuserve, an Orchestra 90 and eventually a single aftermarket drive kit. A bit later it was upgraded again to two double sided Tandons. Lots of $$ invested into it by 1985. About 2 years ago I picked up another Model III off Craigslist. It's an original top of the line 48K 2 drive system that's a real museum piece. I gave $25 for it and it also included and equally nice DMP-100 printer.
  4. That's cool. How are you going about doing it? I'm still using dial up with my 1200 baud modem.
  5. It did for the Model I and then just became a name after that. You also have the TRS-80 Model 100, CoCo, PC-x and MC10 series along with every peripheral made down to the cassette deck. I think the only reason they ditched TRS-80 for Tandy was because of the Trash-80 nickname.
  6. I hate it when people refer to mushroom as a color. Is it white, tan, brown, gray, black, mauve? Model 1 didn't have a "disk slot" as the drives were external. Most likely would not have been using a 1200 baud modem either. Except for the EX/HX, it could be any of Tandy's PC compatibles. I've never seen a Tandy monitor that would be considered bulbous. Although there is this weird ass, cool looking version of the Model 1 monitor which I believe was for the UK market.
  7. Beautiful machine! Looks like they also put the proper blue gel overlay on the monitor which didn't seem to be there in the video. So what's your high score so far? When I got mine, the top score was a bit over 36,000. I'm embarrassed to say that I've yet to top it.
  8. Can't wait to see it in action. Never start up a game that's been at extremely cold temperatures and ALWAYS let the game acclimate (with doors open) to the environment before turning it on. Screen issues were probably cold caps warming up and/or from condensation that formed on everything when you brought it into a warm area. B&W Vector monitors does take a bit longer to warm up compared to a color raster. 30 seconds is about exactly right.
  9. For about 20 years now and it's the most awkward and heaviest game I've owned. If you open the coin door and look up, you'll see the neck of the CRT right up by the control panel (which is steel and also heavy) so there is a lot of weight is towards the front. Even the fluorescent lighting is in a hefty wooden structure that pulls out as an assembly and also contains the speaker. Don't get me wrong, it's not going to just tip over on someone, but if you pull on the top, it doesn't take much to get it moving. With the way kids are, I'm surprised no one got crushed by one back in the day. Anything by Atari is built like a tank. My Missile Command is a small cabinet and it's quite heavy. I used to own a Crystal Castles and that cabinet had built in wheels which was a great idea. Simply tilt it back like a dolly and move it around. I also think it was the coolest looking cabinet ever made. It was one of those games I loved as a kid, but it got old and boring quick and I ended up selling it. Moon Patrol was another game I was addicted to in the 80s...I could make it through both courses on one quarter. Yet, once I owned one, I couldn't wait to get rid of it. No challenge and little random variety. Funny thing is, I hated Asteroids and Defender back in the day because a quarter would last me all of 20 seconds. They still kick my ass today and that's why I really like them after decades of ownership. There are no set patterns and I'm just not wired to master them. You picked a great game which is going to be nothing but fun for years.
  10. That makes life easier. Apparently I didn't watch it all the way to the end the first time. Been so long since I've been in mine, I forgot the multi-tap plugs. When you get it, be careful moving it. The weird shape and placement of the monitor makes it top heavy with a tendency to fall forward.
  11. Yes, that would make one heck of an unboxing video! Can't wait to see this. How will you handle the voltage difference? A large step down transformer?
  12. Shipping had to be killer. Were you not able to find one locally? I thought they'd be fairly common in Ireland as Atari manufactured a huge portion of them in Tipperary Town. It is a very reliable game. Bought mine about 20 years ago for $75, repaired a few cold solder joints on a monitor connector and it's been a zero issue machine since. Last week I put in a new "white" black light and wow what a difference over the original nearly dead bulb! The 3D background using the 2 way mirror is stunning. The huge speaker and powerful amp is also impressive. Missile Command has also been 100% reliable; just Atari quality. Now my Defender is a nightmare, it rarely goes 6 months without needing repairs.
  13. If you scan through those yelp photos, you're correct. That entire place looks beyond cool and wish it were closer to me. If I'm ever in that area, I'll go out of my way to have lunch there.
  14. My adapter is catalog # 26-3804. I don't own a 102 but I believe it uses the same adapter. I'm looking at the adapter and it shows the outside of the barrel as positive and the inside as negative. Whatever barrel adapter fits snugly is the one I'd use. Just make sure you have the correct polarity set!
  15. Original power supply is 400mA. 300mA is probably close enough for the computer...considering it can run 20+ hours on 4 AA batteries. I'm guessing the floppy drive is going to be far more power hungry. You do need to make sure you have the correct polarity. Personally, I would find a 6 vdc supply rated 400mA or higher.
  16. Old battery acid acts strange and seems to get everywhere...it almost acts like condensation. I'm betting that's all it is and fortunately it doesn't look like it hurt anything. DeoxIT cleaner is great stuff for cleaning the brightness pot and any connectors. Radio Shack used to sell it; unless you have a local electronics shop, you may need to order online. There's a 50/50 chance cleaning the pot will cure your screen problem. If not, that link I posted will take care of it. Be careful with the PCB that the screen is attached to. The zebra strips don't age well, and if disturbed, you can get lines of missing pixels. Actually, it's a very common problem on the 100. If it is an issue, you can gently tweak those 14 gold tabs for a tighter fit and that will often cure any dead areas.
  17. I'm not seeing any nastiness on the main board. On the LCD side...is that liquid droplets on M5 and M10? That would be right over the battery compartment. Also are those droplets I see on the plastic section of the battery compartment?
  18. Open it and see what's leaking? Since the caps are kind of small, I doubt they could piss enough to leak into the battery compartment. There is a small rechargeable internal battery pack (for memory) attached to the motherboard. That definitely could have leaked, and if so, the board may be trashed. As far as the dimming goes. If cleaning the brightness pot doesn't fix it, then this is your problem... http://technobly.com/2016/08/21/fixing-a-trs-80-model-100-lcd-issue/
  19. Model I through 4 had a larger user base, especially in businesses and schools which needed floppy drives. I think most home users like me were using the 16K cassette based systems. I recall the drive 0 kit for my Model III was $1,000. Then you needed to at least bump it to 32K and that kit was was around $200. It was also supposed to be installed at a RS service center, so add labor on to that. Looking around $1300 after taxes...or closer to $1500 if going 48K. The computer itself was $1,000. You could save by buying a loaded business setup right from the start. I think a dual drive, 48K with RS232 Model III was around $3,000. I don't think RS offered any kind of CoCo bundle with a drive? Businesses and schools eventually upgrade so you get thousands of used disk based I, III and 4s on the market. I added memory and an aftermarket kit later on at a fraction of the price. I'm pretty sure the aftermarket was many times greater for that series than the CoCo, so that helped too.
  20. Phenomenal collection and excellent walk through! Loved seeing things like the Atari Racing Pak which I forgot existed.
  21. It was a joke reply about Atari, a rabbit and Nestle Quik....
  22. The VB is the only Nintendo product you'll find in my game room. Love that system and rank it up there with the Vectrex. I remember being very impressed with the display setup in Toys R Us, and then almost overnight, they dropped from $200 to $20 bucks with stores having mountain shaped displays of them. I quickly bought one along with most of the available games. I recall the included Duracell batteries lasting well under 1 hour, so I bought the official ac adapter which also cost next to nothing. Seeing what they sell for now, I wish I had bought a bulk lot of about 1,000 of them.
  23. You need to open it up (without breaking the CRT neck) and re-seat every IC and cable connection. Also spray some deoxit in the brightness and contrast pots. Keep in mind, it's an open monitor in there with stored voltage! You also won't know if caps are blown until you open it up and LOOK. There will be at least one X capacitor on the power supply board and most likely it will be blown; although, it usually doesn't keep the unit from operating. Some board revisions have more than one X cap. If any are blown, it'll be obvious as they literally blow up. There isn't much to go wrong in a basic 16K cassette based system. Unfortunately it's next to useless too as all the good software and games will require at least one disk drive and 48K. There's also the matter of getting programs to it. Unless someone added an RS232 board, the base model won't have one. Personally, I download any of the thousands of programs I want off the internet to my modern PC and then attach my Model III to that PC with a null modem and save them to disk. Someone has been selling NOS aftermarket disk controller boards on eBay for about $30 bucks. I've seen NOS RS232 board kits selling for around $50. You'd then need a good 180K or 360K 5¼ floppy drive and also a power supply from a disk based system...or simply add a separate power supply inside the machine. The additional memory is just two sets of 8 pieces of RAM that plug in, super easy to bump it to 48K. With some luck and a bit eBay searching, it's possible to turn it into a full blown disk based system for under $150.00. If you don't have the skills or have little interest in the system, it's not worth it...pass it on to someone who can appreciate it. BTW, the Vic-20 and Apple II are toys compared to a Model III.
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