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Everything posted by Turbo-Torch
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New TRS-80 Model III Owner with Questions
Turbo-Torch replied to rockman_x_2002's topic in Tandy Computers
The caps you linked to are fine. That's the exact part # I used and my original made it 34 years before letting out the smoke. -
New TRS-80 Model III Owner with Questions
Turbo-Torch replied to rockman_x_2002's topic in Tandy Computers
The tech ref manual doesn't go into too much detail on the monitor. In the illustrated parts section, it looks like the pair is listed as item 120 Knob, Thumbwheel. Manufacturer part # 8719112 Radio Shack part # AK4298. I don't see any resistance ratings. -
New TRS-80 Model III Owner with Questions
Turbo-Torch replied to rockman_x_2002's topic in Tandy Computers
It sounds like your floppy drive power supply is completely dead as it also powers the controller board. Your system is acting like a standard cassette based system. With a working controller, you'd need to hold down BREAK while turning on the power to get the Cass prompt and go into BASIC. Fix the power supply and you'll probably be 100% functional. Controllers and power supplies can vary as there were a number of aftermarket kits. I installed an aftermarket J&M drive kit in mine back in the mid 80s as it was less than ½ the price of Radio Shack's. Also, if you need to replace a drive, install a double sided for twice the storage. -
New TRS-80 Model III Owner with Questions
Turbo-Torch replied to rockman_x_2002's topic in Tandy Computers
If the Cassette prompt is showing up, there is an issue with the disk controller board. Most likely the flex cable is corroded or has open traces. They were junk back in the day and I was always disassembling the computer to reseat the RS232 and disk controller cables. Eventually the fingers inside the connector on the motherboard started to break off, so last year I hard soldered a ribbon cable from the motherboard to the disk controller. I doubt I'll ever see an issue with that again. There is also a smaller jumper flex cable on the motherboard that I had to do the same to. Buy a can of Deoxit and use it on the cable connections, screen control pots and any socketed ICs that you can remove. Get those power supply X capacitors replaced ASAP. They will go out with a bang and you don't need to risk of further component damage or a fire. -
It doesn't require a special Tandy boot disk. Get a copy of any version of msdos that you want and put it in drive A.
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It's not like a car hobby where you can head to a different cruise night each day of the week or a few car shows/swap meets each month. I know of only a handful of people in my area who have small game rooms, and like me, it's more of a fun personal hobby that can entertain family and friends of all ages. Head over to Craigslist and start shopping. Once you get a game or two, there are an endless amount of dedicated sites, parts suppliers and vendors of new repro items to keep any games you buy running strong. There also used to be auctions like USAA which would travel all over the country and they were a ton of fun. Plenty of cool people would attend them and you could get some incredible deals. Unfortunately, those type of auction companies seemed to have disappeared...probably too much competition from Craigslist and eBay. Hit some of the dedicated arcade sites. You won't find much of anything on AA except a few who think a hard drive with some stickers on it is an arcade collection.
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I guess those in the 70s and 80s had much better reflexes and timing as it didn't seem to matter back then....or you just suck at video games that require those skills. Nice of you to speak for everybody. I'm sure it was nothing but a fluke as to why certain games like Space Invaders, Pacman, Donkey Kong, Galaga etc. were insanely popular and causing coin shortages. It was just the environment and had nothing to do with the game play...right? But wait...I thought it was a great 80s social environment that made the games great? Would you mind citing some examples? Most videos I see are of fit and intelligent guys (can actually move and maintain the games) who enjoy a hobby and like to have a killer man-cave to entertain family and friends. They have jobs, commitments and other things going on in their lives and don't feel the need to obsess over one hobby by creating local "club meetings", attending events or making 10s of thousands of posts on internet forums.
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I love this game! Easily within the top 10 best 2600 arcade ports. My only complaint is that my thumb is aching from playing it so much this evening.
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Mod to play all 2K and 4K games? You convert a 2600 ROM file to a WAV file and load it like a normal SuperCharger game. It looks like someone started to mod it and never finished or botched it up bad and gave up. I remember adding a 7432 chip which isn't in your pics.
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When my RAM failed, I just ordered a few off ebay for next to nothing. I piggybacked one RAM at a time until it passed the memory test and then removed the bad RAMs and soldered in the new. I think I had two that failed but the block test screen made it easy to see when I pinpointed the failed one. My 130xe was new in the box when I bought it and I was surprised to see several different brand RAMs installed which appeared to be hand soldered compared to the rest. I read that Atari used the crappiest of the crap memory back then and many had to be replaced right off the assembly line.
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.99 Pinball machine on E-Bay! Free shipping. HMMMM!?
Turbo-Torch replied to SoundGammon's topic in Arcade and Pinball
Obviously new to ebay and forgot to put local pickup only. Nothing odd about a low starting bid and no reserve. Might bite him in the ass though. -
Wish I had bought a warehouse full when they were selling for $25 brand new at just about any local toy store. Same goes for the mountains of Virtual Boy systems for $20 bucks, TG16 for $20 and Dreamcasts for $50. Unfortunately I only bought one of each. Oh yea, 7800 with 5 game bundle for $20 at Big Lots...about what that abortion/downfall of Atari system was worth from day one. I miss the days of blow out prices on great systems and I think DC was the last. Maybe we'll see a $25 Wii U soon!
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Check the DIN plug in back. It's possible a wire broke off when assembling the cabinet. Also look inside the sockets and make sure each metal prong is in place. I had one push in and pop out from the rear of the plug. You also may just need to pull the cassette cable plug out slightly from the speaker jack as you have a monaural plug going into a stereo jack.
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Received my parts today and there was no mistaking it was from Best Electronics as the box is covered in "pilfer proof tape" with ATARI and the Fuji all over it. Screen and speaker were $38.45 including shipping...ordered Tuesday evening and today is Friday, so very quick. LCD is plug 'n play with no soldering but it is a bit involved. Takes about 30 minutes if you've had one apart before. Be sure to take off the protective film. I'm glad Brad mentioned it as I was ordering or else I would have never noticed. There is also another layer on the REAR of the screen! Very satisfied with the video and sound now. As time went by I kept thinking I was just getting spoiled by modern displays on tablets and phones but the Lynx screen was just crapping out more and more until it became unbearable this year. No more color bleed even in games like Ms. Pacman. One dead pixel which is barely noticeable...think my original had two or three from day one. Speaker clicked into place and came with the proper connector.
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Just ordered a new LCD screen and speaker today from Best and can't wait to try them out. Last time I played my Lynx II everything was fine; didn't play it for a year or so and everything went to hell in a hand basket. LCD colors bleeding badly and crackly low volume sound. Seriously, how does a speaker just go bad? It's not like it has a foam surround that rotted out. First I recapped it and that didn't make any improvement in video or sound. Installed a modern speaker that's much smaller than the original but at least it sounds much better than the failed one. Thought about going with the upgraded modern LCD kit but decided I'd rather keep it original. I remember buying the Lynx II brand new as a bundle with a ton of new games and accessories for less than $100.00. Also, the game boxes all had some damage due to a tornado taking out a warehouse which I believe was owned by Telegames. Just gives them more history and cool factor.
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Thanks for the info. I'll dig deeper into the site and if I can't find it, I'll give him a call Tuesday. Edit Found it with the part # you listed. Been looking for one for about 6 months and can't believe I missed it. That is one old school site. Thanks again!
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Do you have a link or something? I have checked their site several times since last year and can't find anything more than a replacement speaker.
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I owned a 2000. I bought it from the local Radio Shack in the mall for $100.00...it was either a display or something they actually used in the store. It had every option that RS offered including the high res graphics/color boards, 768K and the internal HD so that both floppies could remain. Adding everything up from the catalog prices, it was a $9,000+ system and that's not including all the software it came with. Technically, it was a powerhouse beast that blew away all other PCs at the time. I guess if you had a business and needed processing power and incredibly fast graphics, you couldn't ask for anything better. As a home PC, I was disappointed that I spent $100 on it. It was so damn close to being IBM compatible it was frustrating. I already owned a 1000 EX and loved that computer...mowed a lot of lawns to save up the $600.00. I wish I never sold it to buy a 1000 SL. I still scan CL every so often in hopes of finding another EX just for the heck of it. The SL was a good computer and was very easy to upgrade with standard XT stuff. First thing I did was upgrade the memory to 640K and then bought a 32mb RLL hard card. That was my last Tandy PC. After that I started buying parts out of Computer Shopper and attending Computer Shows (usually held at county fair grounds) to build my own PCs. I gave the 2000 to my best friend so that we could play Trade-Wars on all the local BBSs. He had a IIe but I don't think it even had a serial card to attach a modem to. I know for a fact he still has the IIe and I bet the 2000 may still be stashed away at his parents' house. Not sure if I'd even want that one back.
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Very cool. I'd love to see one these in person one day.
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What was Chuck E. Cheese like back in the 1980s?
Turbo-Torch replied to Syzygy1's topic in Arcade and Pinball
I worked at a Shakey's Pizza when I was in high school and it does look 100% identical. It's actually still there and is now a Texas Corral. Floor plan has changed a bit but much of it still the same. -
Credit screen from a game called Protector and Y.A.S.I. It's downright insane. This is a video I found on youtube. [media] [\media]
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Classic Games That Are Nightmares to Keep Going
Turbo-Torch replied to simbalion's topic in Arcade and Pinball
There were poorly designed games that were failure prone, such as Pole Position, which always seemed to have an out of order sign in every arcade. There were also dangerous games. The color vector Electrohome G08, used in many Sega games, often caught fire. I was with a friend at an auction when he bought a Tac Scan for something like $300 (I was looking over other games and didn't realize he was bidding on it). He had an impressive game room but also bought and flipped games for profit too. I told him it was a huge mistake and it'll probably burn down his house and would be a liability to sell it to anyone...he never heard of the issue and thought I was joking. We got back to his house and while unloading the games I told him not to even put that one in his house, he still thought I was bullshitting him. He fired the Tac Scan up in his garage and it worked great. He played it for about 10 minutes and said "it's really fun, I'm going to keep this one for my collection." Seconds after he said that, smoke started to come out the back and then there was a loud bang and the screen went blank. He unplugs it and the smoke keeps billowing out of the cabinet. It didn't come with a key for the back door so we quickly used pry bars rip it off. The monitor looked like a mini fire place and the flames were already igniting the wood cabinet above. We threw it out in the driveway and put it out with a garden hose. I think I laughed for a week straight after that. He ended up parting it out and still made a profit. Just like a bad model of car or appliance, there were bad arcade games but they were few and far between. Arcade games are heavy duty commercial products that were built far better than any TV, stereo or home computer back in the day. Many ran 24 hours a day, 365 days a year in shitty locations such as laundromats. In the early 80s, a game was NOT played out within 6 months and forgotten about. Popular titles like Ms.Pac and Donkey Kong were still pulling in profits well over 5 years later and were still in many remaining arcades 15 year later. 3 year life span? bwahaha! If games were kept in a conditioned location without excessive humidity, they damn near last forever. The biggest failures are capacitors which dry out and fail but that's a fact of life in any electronic device. Funny how those caps were able to push 20 years of use, while in modern flat screen TVs, which don't run all day and night, are lucky to make it 5 years. Humid environment...clean your connections and IC legs with something like Deoxit and game on. As far as being modular. My Defender has separate mother board, ROM board, sound board and power supply. Each is plug 'n play and can be replaced in 5 minutes with a screwdriver. Furthermore, the WG monitor has modular boards which can be swapped out in less than one minute. This was great for an operator who didn't need down time ruining profits. All the failed boards could then be repaired and put back into stock. -
I wonder if Endore is Enduro?
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Aladdin's Castle used to sell these filled with tokens to give as gifts. I got this one as a Christmas present...I'm thinking '81 or '82. Their tokens were normally gold colored but for some reason one was silver and I kept it for good luck.
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With no description given...$50 to $500.
