cowdog360

I should shortly, yes.

I'm going to agree here. The last 3 I've bought were all about $50 - $60 in working fair condition. Sometimes with a few games, sometimes without. I probably would try to get a bare unit for around $50. What I've been doing is getting them, doing a full cleaning, polishing the scratches out of the lens, new capacitors, new zener/mosfet, giving a 90 day warranty and calling it a refurbished unit for about $105. Most of my spares are getting McWill screens, and will start around $300 for a unit that has everything ready to go.

What I plan to do in the place of the contrast knob eventually is use a small connector like a USB-C or some other connector. With enough pins out there, you could have a custom cable with VGA out and the joystick both. Then, no case modding needed. Bluetooth is a pretty cool idea for the audio, but I'd love to do bluetooth commlynx!

Does the unit actually work, or just turn on? It sounds like on yours that there's something wrong in the soft power circuit. Most likely either a bad transistor or the 4069 chip has some bad gates. I like the idea of a repair services thread. I just toss what I do in my signature (and website), but having a list of people that can do things would be good.

I'd love to edit my 5v mod tutorial to tell people to judt do the other parts, but can't edit old posts. Makes it tough to revise things when you find a better solution. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Also, I'd like to add to @Sam83 nice and tidy work there, it looks good. My only concern is that you use 30 gauge "Kynar" wire for the LCD power and ground. That thin of single stranded wire isn't ideal for it, but it probably will work. I'm not 100% sure how much mA the LCD draws, but personally I'd be a little safer and go with at least a 26gauge wire (or some more of that ribbon wire you've got). Insulation isn't very thick on it either, so I'd worry about it easily shorting during vibration (you do have it fairly well secured though). Over all, looks great!

Krip316 is correct, with the 5V mod, the regulator never shuts off even when the Lynx is off, so you end up with a current draw. Also, since the original power on circuit isn't controlling the regulator, removing the cart. doesn't help either. Removing the cartridge normally would kill power draw when idle. I know some folks are sold on the 5V mod, so at some point I'd like to redo the 5V mod to use a regulator with an enable pin and use some of the stock power circuitry to turn it on and off so this is a non-issue.

Ok, so I'll try and get these parts listed up on my store, but can also sell them via a private message. I'll also make a quick video and write-up on doing it.

Hmm, I wonder if the the enable pin has anything to do with it. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

I wonder if c39 was helping to buffer the power rail before. Maybe without it your have too much draw? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Has anyone written a RAM test for the lynx? I'm not sure what the Lynx Diagnostic cartridge does.. but I'd love a more detailed RAM test.

Lynxes with new screens have an LED backlight. I haven't done any LED's on the original screen. Lithium battery mods are coming soon as soon as I get a good process down.

I could certainly do that once I get more lcds Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

Wow, that's huge! That should rock. I just got my LTC samples and adapter pcb's in, so I should be doing this with a Lynx II shortly. Just not with the lipo.

I'd absolutely pay the money now for the pre-order if they'd give me a digital ROM to put on my SainT SD card. I know that's wishful thinking because of piracy concerns.. but in this day and age now that an SD cart exists, people are going to want to buy things in that format if they can. I think it makes sense, becuase devs could charge less, and not have to worry about trying to make physical carts, boxes, etc for each thing. I wonder if somehow saint can put serial numbers in each SD cart hardware and then you just give that to the dev and they embed that in the ROM, so if you copy the ROM out somewhere, its obvious who did it. Again, people could hexedit, etc.. but you're never going to stop piracy completely. I'm betting most of the lynx enthusiasts would pay.

Yes, I'll have to look at the schematic to be sure. I think Test point TP18 can be grounded to do that.

Who needs a life? Wha??

All, Not only do I sell McWill screens in the states when I have them, I'm also building up an inventory of lynxes I've refurbished. Currently have two posted: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/256379-atari-lynx-iis-for-sale-fully-refurbished/

All, I'm going through my Lynx II stash getting units working and bundled up. If you don't know what I do, check my signature, I've worked on a lot of Lynx IIs. I currently have two bundles for sale. Both Lynxes have been gone through, fully cleaned. Each one has new power supply components, the important stuff that will keep them from frying in the long run. They also have all new high quality capacitors. Futhermore, I've upgraded the speaker on each to a poly cone 8 ohm speaker that is louder. They both work and look great. I put the best original LCD's I had in my stash in them. 90 day warranty on all my work. Bundle 1 - In box with matching serial number on unit and box. Box is a bit rough, missing the original insert. I made a foam insert. Includes manual, and a fair condition travel pouch. Also includes a copy of Electrocop. - This one is $120 USD + shipping. See all photos of unit here: https://goo.gl/photos/H19gkpJDF7SbSpSw8 Bundle 2 - Lynx II with carrying case and 4 games. Carrying case is in OK condition, faded and some ripping on back and on the clear game holding section. Comes with Klax, Shanghai, Crystal Mines II, and Block Out. Lens has a few minor scratches, I buffed most things out. LCD is bright, and has one bad pixel (amazing actually, most have clusters of bad or a dark center band). This bundle is $130 US + shipping. See all photos of unit here: https://goo.gl/photos/2ndFuw4FgBTnpTBP8

You can test for power coming in without the flex circuit installed, but you have to actually trigger the power on to see what the regulated voltage accross C41 is.

Dude, that's so funny that you talk about the high pitch sound. One of the other guys who has a lynx and I both said that. That intro especially. Now if you have an upgraded 8 ohm speaker, it's even louder and more searing.

Trimming the cable does work well. I do that all the time to fix them. I'm going to build me a bench testing Lynx since I do so much modding and repair. I'm going to just mount the PCB on some wood with a series of physical buttons hardwired.

Measure the voltage across the terminals of capacitor C41. You should be seeing no more than 5V.

Oops, see I didn't read it all. I'm just like the people I complain about at work

Or just spend $5 on caps, recap the thing and be done with it for another 20+ years I use 105 degree caps in my kits on the important ones. Actually... do you even need C38 now with the lithium mod??