cowdog360

Anyone notice the DPAD on that one? It's a totally different design that the others I've seen. Normally they are all black, or all gray, and flatter... Wierd!

I'm hoping the SD cart starts pushing the price down on the traditional carts. I'd still like to get a pretty complete collection, but I know most people are probably just going to want a Lynx, a multi-cart and the McWill LCD.

See my video here!

Go to Best Electronics using This Link and you can find them new for like $8 in sealed boxes. You have to buy a minimum order of $20 from him, so I'd say get the Large Lynx carrying case as well.. they are also new sealed and a STEAL at $15.

Best sells new in box Lynx I systems for $200. They offer "reconditioned" Lynx II systems for $100. Now, its important to note that their reconditioned systems don't really have anything upgraded or replaced on the inside. They just take the best of the lots and parts they have and clean them up, test them and sell them with a 90 day warranty. (http://www.best-electronics-ca.com/lynx.htm#Reconditioned Atari Lynx I and II Console Specials!) This isn't a knock against Brad or his stuff, I think it is still a great value. It's just important to know that you're still going to end up with a Lynx that has 25 year old capacitors, MOSFET and zener diode (the most common failure points). If I could get a decent supply of Lynxes for around $40-50, I'd just be selling lynxes with those upgrades and probably giving a warranty as well for about the same cost.

The purpose of the 5V mod or the replacement of the zener is mainly to prolong the life, not lower any temps really. The short and sweet version of all the technical stuff is: The Lynx power supply circuit takes 9V and turns it to 5V. The supplied circuit has one part (zener diode) that can fail after years of age/use. When that happens, you get 9V into the system, and most of the chips want 5V, so it fries them. Upgrading to a new zener or a 5V mod just makes this less likely.

If you measure the voltage across C41, what do you get? If it's less than 4.8V, that is probably the issue.

That's a great idea for a screen protector. I just ordered one from Best Electronics today along with some other stuff.

I wish I could edit the top post. After doing some more testing, it looks like the 1N5229 zener diode has a higher test current (20ma) than the stock 1N5991B (5ma). This is causing some Lynx's to only have about a 4.4V output, so they aren't working quite right with it. I have a couple of solutions thanks to @Mojado : Option 1: Use the 1N5229 zener, but change R74 from 120Ohms to 30ohms. This will allow the zener to work properly, but your Lynx will use about 2% power more than factory in theory. I plan on testing this during the week. Option 2: Get an original 1N5991B. I found a supplier, and I've order about 500 of them, so I'll have a stock people can buy from if they want (rather than having to place huge orders online).

If you need a McWill screen, I have several for sale (I'm in the US and resell them here). Also, if you just want a stock screen to try, I'll gladly send you one if you cover shipping. I have a pile of working stock screens (from ones I've McWill modded)

I'm actually refurbishing a few Lynx II's right now. I can have one that has Lynx II, all new capacitors, speaker, MOSFET and Zener diodes, APB game and the carrying pouch that I'd probably let go for $100. Of course you can always add the McWill LCD to it and have an amazing setup (I may just add that to it and sell it as a tricked out package for around $250). But yes, typically a bare working Lynx II is about $40-$60. $60-$100 in a box.

I PM'd you, I also have a few in stock in the US.

Hmm.. for some reason, with the new 1n5229 zener some of the Lynxes are only outputting 4.4V instead of 4.9 with the stock zener. Must investigate!

Just a quick update: In stock: Game Gear Screens: 0 Atari Lynx II Screens: 4 They will go quick!

Even like a year ago, a Lynx II system working could be had for about $40. Now they seem to be selling for well over $60-$80. Regarding the large case, best doesn't have a whole lot more left, and he limits purchase to 1 per customer.

Hmm, I'd try it on both AC adapter and batteries to see if there's any difference. After that, I'd replace the zener D13 and MOSFET Q12 to spruce up the power section, perhaps replace at least C39 and C40 power supply caps as well if they haven't been done.

I doubt the scanline firmware update is going to fix that. I'm assuming you have SainT's SD card? Does your modded Lynx have the "5V regulator mod"? I'm curious with the McWill screen and SD cartridge if we're starting to see power draw issues.

Who's doing the upgrades in Oregon, just curious? That'd be pretty cool if another local is doing some. I'm in Vancouver, WA, and I've done quite a few for Oregon folks as well as across the US.

I need to update this guide, but please also consider the points I talk about here: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/254446-lynx-power-circuit-upgraderepair-better-than-5v-mod/

All, Since there are a lot of different threads now discussing the different ways to upgrade the Lynx’s power regulation circuits, I thought I’d sum them up here. Background: The Lynx has a built in switching regulation circuit that converts the 9V from batteries or AC into 5V for the system to use. There are few key components that make this circuit work, including a MOSFET (Q12 on Lynx II, Q11 on Lynx I), and a Zener diode (D13 on Lynx II, ZD1 on Lynx I). When the MOSFET fails, typically your Lynx won’t power up. That’s why the headphone ground trick works to bypass it temporarily. When the Zener diode fails, the power supply circuit loses its voltage “reference” and lets 9V go right on through the system, causing other chips to fail. Upgrade/Repair Options: There was someone in Germany who figured out that you could replace the onboard regulation with a 5V regulator like an LM7805. This involved removing the Zener diode, a transistor, some diodes and modding the PCB. The LM7805 is inefficient and runs hot, so people experimented with the DC-DC converters. I wrote a whole thread on installing a RECOM DC-DC converter in as an upgrade or repair option. Another option is simply replacing the MOSFET with a new one, and the Zener diode with a new one. Which method should I choose? After several different people in the forums (including some bright engineers) examined the original power supply circuit, it was apparent that the Lynx has a efficient switching regulator. See the proof in This Thread! Therefore, by putting in a new regulator, you’re just doubling up circuitry. Also, the 5V regulator mods have the side effect of draining the batteries when the Lynx is off within a day or two. This is because the 5V regulator never truly shuts off. I’m biased, and even after writing the article on the 5V mod, and doing it on quite a few Lynxes, I just perform the Zener diode and MOSFET replacement. This preserves the original circuitry and power draw of the Lynx. By replacing them with newer parts, they should last another 20+ years as well. Ultimately, we are going to try to come up with an overvoltage protection circuit that can go in the Lynx to shut it down if the Zener ever does fail. This is the best solution. You can still do the other mod, and some people prefer it, thinking that it may be more reliable in the long run. Of course we may never know for quite some time J I want to install the new Zener and MOSFET! All you need to do is order up the latest equivalent for the original MOSFET. Currently a good choice is the 2SK2231. For the Zener diode, a modern equivalent is the 1N5229B. Note that the Zener is through hole, which works great on a Lynx I. For a Lynx II, you’ll just have to chop the leads and mount it. For the Lynx II, the black stripe on the zener should point to the left towards TP19 on the board. DO NOT reverse this! The MOSFET is a simple unsolder, solder a new one in. If you use digikey, these part numbers are for you! Q11/Q12 MOSFET: 2SK2231TE16RQCT-ND ZD1/D13 Zener: 1N5229BFSCT-ND Installation pictures: Here's a picture with the MOSFET and zener replaced: Close up of the MOSFET: Close up of the Zener:

i'd just swap the 7805 for the RECOM DC-DC converter we use in the lynx mod. It fits in place, and doesn't give off heat like the 7805.. much more efficient too.

Hey Orange, I'm thinking I'll start a new thread about voltage regulation and will cover everything we've been talking about in the 3+ other threads. In short: Replace the Zener and MOSFET 5V regulator mod uses more battery, doesn't really provide much more protection. (It was the cool thing to do!) Development of a new 5V saver circuit for the Lynx (I'm going to work on a PCB and get a prototype).

Don't forget to replace the Zener diode when you're in there too. That and the MOSFET are what control the power regulation.

Interesting, what 1W zener did you end up using?

The new LCD can be used both as a replacement or an improvement, and believe me it is a huge improvement. Regarding screen rot, I don't think the originals have that as bad as the microvision, but they don't seem to hold up that great over time either. Sadly, no microvision replacements exist yet!