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+AtariAge Subscriber
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About slx

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    River Patroller

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  • Location
    Vienna, Austria
  • Interests
    Atari since 1983, Aviation even longer, HP Calcs on & off
  • Currently Playing
    this round's HSC games
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    next round's HSC games ;-)

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  1. Thanks for all the tips. There was no insulation between the MoBo and lower shield but I tested the bare board as well. is there anything that would routinely blow when the lower shield touches the motherboard? All in all this sounds like a lot of work and as I bought the machine as working, I'll only do a deeper dig if the seller agrees on a substantial discount, otherwise I'll return it and have a collection without Najm. The interesting thing is that it worked intermittently for a couple of minutes hooked up to an Atari PSU before dying.
  2. Here's a top photo, I'll take one of the bottom the next time. When the power switch is off, I get 5V across the PSU connector terminals, when I switch it on, that drops to about 0.12V. I let it sit with power on for about 30 minutes but nothing feels hot or even warm to the touch thereafter.
  3. But when the bird carries you away and drops you somewhere deadly...
  4. Interesting that Fort Apocalypse turns up here. I always had the impression that it was my own fault when I was killed and I don't remember "random death". On the contrary, I was disappointed when it ended so soon and would love to see the fan programmed C64 extra levels on the Atari.
  5. Having very few arcades here, I only played arcade games a couple of times a year and while my Atari 800 saw a lot of gaming action, I also did a lot of programming on it. I can imagine that a real arcade stick will beat any arcade experience you could have on the 8-bit (and the LUA can probably recreate any Atari VCS/8-bit arcade conversion you have fond memories of). I'll keep my Ataris because I like the hardware haptics (just carrying around an 800 or letting the 400 cart door flip open) and because of that programming aspect, but then I'm more of a hoarder and find it hard to let go of stuff (and even regret having given away some Atari and other Retro stuff for next to nothing when I was unable to sell them for any price 10-15 years ago). I find arcade games a bit lesss enticing these days than I did when there was less choice, especially when they're repetitive and the only goal is to score ever higher and higher. Even more than in the 80's I prefer games where there is some kind of "progress", where you see new stuff/areas coming up, etc.
  6. I tried that but it makes no difference. Interestingly I don't get 5V between the power socket solder points on the underside of the mainboard.
  7. Yes, I think it was the same ABBUC forum thread that sparked my acquisition. Mine came via FEDEX, however and the package was immaculate. The machine itself was wrapped in about 5 metres (15 feet) of bubble wrap.
  8. As I tested the "sellotape" fix, my membrane is quite sticky and unless there's no one else volunteering, I'd rather wait for the final product. If the spacer works in principle, IMHO it would be best to "glue"/fuse it to the membrane to ease installation and protect the conduits.
  9. Is that a PAL 65XE without ECI? Didn't know those even exist.
  10. An impulse buy has added a Najm 65XE to my collection. Now, is there any preserved Arab software to let the star shine? And is there any non-Arabic description of its workings? It seems to use Arabic numbers exclusively but defaults to Latin letters. CTRL produces Arabic letters that are shifted to the right (I had imagined that "right to left" meant that the editor would start at the right and move the cursor to the left for subsequent letters). I have yet to find out how to access the graphics characters that are printed on the side of the keycaps. BTW, mine is the single "J" variant with ECI (sorry for not knowing how to type Arabic letters in AA).
  11. Just got one from Egypt for 130$ shipped. Now wondering if any software for it is preserved anywhere.
  12. An impulse buy has added an Arabic 65XE to my collection. While it seemed to work out of the box, the picture tended to disappear and reappear (without reboot) when the power plug was touched. After a couple of minutes it did not work at all and when I turn it off and on again I get a dark screen, a tiny little bit of the "boot fart" (just one "note", so to say) and the power LED blinks steadily (on with every sound). The frequency is about 72 Hz. Tried both a modern and old PSU, with the old PSU it does nothing at all. Both work on another 65 XE, so the PSUs should be OK. My first instinct would be to check and resolder the power connector connection to the mainboard. Any other hints/suggestions are welcome! Thanks!
  13. Same here and second ivop's kudos for the image quality! The subtitle text is fine but while we German speakers can't understand Dutch as easy as the Dutch seem to understand German, it is obvious that the subtitles don't match the spoken Dutch and sometimes there is no audio but the lips of the guy with the Atari on his desk still move. Thanks for sharing!
  14. You're tempting me, @ClausB... Where would those wires need to go either end?
  15. I have tried that but it did not work. I did not pursue it for some time but recently took the 400 out again, so I'd like to try again. I have attached several files used in the attempt but have little recollection what the individual files are. I remember booting to a blank screen with OSN (which might be normal as they probably used the memo pad space for something else). The hotkeys to enter Omnimon did not work. The idea with the channel switch is good, very keen to hear about your experiences (to copy them in case of success ). There are some threads around where I picked up all that stuff. FastChip.rom OMNI800 OSN 8K.rom OSN with FastChip 10K.rom OSN_left__socket_Z6_F000.bin OSN_right_socket_Z7_E000.bin Omnimon_rom800.rom omniview800_c000.rom Fastchip.bin MT_2k.bin Omni800.bin OS_B_raw.bin OSN_EF_4.bin OSNFast black.bin OSNFast.bin OSNFastOmni.bin
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