KylJoy

Got the CIB Brown ECS. Still need the grey CIB (US) ECS (computer system) and the CIB brown and grey (US) synthesizers.

Bump. List updated.

Anyone else got any tips or suggestions like these?

Anyone out there that can show us how to make Intellivision or Intellivision II cardboard box inserts for those of us with the original boxes without the inserts?

Bumping. Down to last five. Any help appreciated.

Bumping to continue pleading!

Bumping for help. Please see signature for what I still need! Thank you all!

I'm in. USA

Loved this on the Amiga. Would love to see it on the Intellivision if possible.

Oh! I am! I have zero homebrew games and am about to start my homebrew collection. It would be awesome if the first one was Copter Command!

Awesome progress thanks to many. Now down to what is listed in my signature. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

Advanced to pleading. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

Got them. Thanks. Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

Do the cup holders work with the original Intellivision or the Intellivision II? I'm just trying to figure out if I need to order one or two sets.

Sears SuperIntarivision? Best of all worlds? LOL Na... Yours were better.

Not Ebay, but check out the Intellivision on Craigslist... http://kansascity.craigslist.org/ele/5132088049.html Wow... Just... Wow.

I tried to buy the Skiing at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mountain-Madness-Super-Pro-Skiing-Intellivision-1988-/252025664741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aade674e5 But, for some reason, was told I couldn't bid since I don't have a PayPal account. But, I have several! Not sure what happened there. Did someone here get it? The good news for me? I found and bought a different one for less than that one sold! I'm closing in on the magic INTV 125! Anyone got any of the ones I still need in my signature?

I wish I was a stock holder.

Atari joystick box insert: The box is 8 1/8 inches long. It is 3 1/2 x 4 inches rectangular. It is closed by a 1/2 inch flap glued to the inside. The cardboard is corrugated and barely thicker than 1/16th inch. The cardboard is not as thick as 1/8th inch. The corrugation runs around the box, not lengthwise. The corner of the box with the glued flap has no cuts or folds to hold the joysticks and neither does the opposite corner. The other two corners have cuts in them making 1/2 inch wide 1 inch reverse corners (they flip inward after the joystick is inserted) to hold the joysticks in the box and another two 1 inch cuts 3 1/2 inches apart making the center part fold in to hold the joystick bases in place. The cuts making all of the inward folding corners seem to be 7/8 to 1 inch each side. You should insert joysticks so that the cords rest in the box opposite of each other. Also, you have to manipulate the sticks to avoid them from touching and keeping you from inserting the sticks all the way. The sticks will need to slide in next to each other when inserting. See images for more measurement detail. Now, if I could get this info for my Intellivision II box I'd be very happy.

Not sure where to put this type of info. I think we should share this type of info somehow showing how the box inserts were made since they are usually missing. The next post will be my first attempt at doing this.

Just being silly. Won't ask again.

Well... I put my beloved carts in their original boxes I put each box in a plastic video game protector box I like http://www.videogameboxprotectors.com but there are several brands and various sizes I put each protected video game box on a shelf I'm missing a few box protectors but I've got an order coming in. Obsessive-compulsive? Probably. I'm the guy that removes the seats and carpet from any used vehicles and takes the carpet to the car wash. I might have a problem. But, I've seen other FREAKS on this forum and others with similar problems. And notice I count myself among the FREAKS. For under $1 each, those plastic boxes are, in my humble opinion, an unbeatable investment toward protecting your collection. The ones I get are PET and are actually non-acidic food-grade that won't yellow, etc.

Estimated release date? Hey! New song lyrics! "In the year 2525... If man is still, still alive... Vintage games will be loved by wives... And GroovyBee finally released the HIVE!!" https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CCMQ3ywwAGoVChMI3quj1dHlxgIV0jiICh0zOAvF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DizQB2-Kmiic&ei=-saqVd7GEtLxoASz8KyoDA&usg=AFQjCNGOjMqLm7ULzIOkis5EJPlR-twXxw&sig2=ZEw6CsE81OItz9mmRyPTIQ

No biting here... Me, being the kind of guy that removes the seats and carpet from any used vehicles I buy and then takes the carpet to the carwash.... Well, I do a pretty thorough cleaning to all my vintage stuff. Here are some steps without going into super detail: Unplug the console (just in case you didn't know this ) Get something soft to lay the unit on (towel, etc.) Lay unit face down on towel. I recommend leaving the controllers in. You can also do this by putting the towel on it and turning it all over at once. Remove screws on bottom (I think there are 6) Case should easily open at this point. I turn it right-side up before taking apart - controller cables will need to be paid attention to. Make sure to note where the power slider switch falls. If you want to (and, of course, I do) carefully unplug controllers from internal connectors, remove and lay aside. I pay attention to where the cables were laying inside the system and which controller went where since I like to put it back just like it was originally. The cables will lay better in their original locations since the cables are run inside a bit differently for each controller. Also if you want to (and, again, I do) you can remove the internal electronics. It's been a little while since I opened one of these up, but I think with just a few screw removals you can remove the power supply board and the motherboard assembly (the silver boxy thingy) if you are careful so you can clean under them. Be careful to note how the cables connect to everything. Use your cell phone to snap pictures before taking things apart so you can see how to put it back together later. The tray where the controllers sit is pretty nasty sometimes and I wash it in the sink with a little soap and warm water. I wipe the power cable and all plastic surfaces, inside and out, with a damp cloth (not too wet) avoiding direct contract with internal electronics (if you left them in) and, though I wipe them off, not getting decals too wet (like on the unit bottom). If it is greasy you may want to use a little soap but be sure to wipe out any soap residue as it attracts dirt (that is what soap does). What kind of soap? Whatever my wife has at the kitchen sink, probably a Dawn clone. Use q-tips to clean areas that are too small for a cloth. Be careful not to let the little q-tip fibers get stuck in things if you can help it. Use discretion on this tip, but I actually wash plastic parts that do not have decals in the sink with a small amount of soap. Soap will dry out things. Also, soap attracts dirt so make sure any plastic parts are rinsed thoroughly if you use any soap. I will use a soft brush, too, at times if things are, well, chunky. Before I reassemble the main unit body I always disassemble and clean the controllers. I don't even test them first. Crazy? You decide. There are many good videos online showing dis-assembly, etc. But the steps are basically: Remove screws while not losing them or losing any parts that will fall out including clear plastic discs Remove cable. It should pop off. Be careful. Set internal components aside (disc, mylar sheets, button sheet, side buttons, screws, cable and clear plastic disc) and wash the controller housings with soap and water. These things are usually dis-gus-ting! That nasty dark stuff is someone's sweat and grime from 1979. Delicious on wheat toast. Wash the side buttons without letting them go down a drain. I wipe off the mylar sheets and clean the contacts everywhere with q-tips and alcohol. Be careful not to damage the mylar or the traces. Carefully place the components back into the dry and clean housing. Don't forget the clear plastic disc. See online vids for placement if necessary. Close up housing and replace screws. Do not over-tighten. Before I put the controllers back into the unit I carefully wrap the cords around a dowel and heat the cords with a hair dryer or heat gun and allow them to cool in place. This re-shapes them into nice curly cables. In a pinch I've used long pencils. Reconnect controllers into their correct internal connectors (through the unit top). Replace top of unit and arrange controllers. Flip over on towel and re-insert screws. Do not over tighten screws. Before anything else I usually clean the cartridge connector. I DO... You may not want to. Here's what I do: Acquire (find) old piece of thin cloth that will not leave fibers behind (old sheet, etc). Acquire an old credit-type card that is the approximate width of the game cartridge slot inside the game cartridge port. I've been known to cut plastic cards to fit things if necessary Moisten the cloth lightly with a small amount of good alcohol. Put the thin cloth over the side of the card that you are going to slide into the slot Slide card with cloth on it into slot a few times. Usually they come out dark from the dirt. BE CAREFUL. If you force something or move side-to-side you can bend things and ruin the Intellivision cartridge slot rendering the unit inoperable. Wait a little bit for any residual alcohol to evaporate. Test unit. I use Bomb Squad since the first screen or so requires number pad entry and I can test all of the number pad keys quickly. Then I try the disc out. Other games would work. Stare lovingly at clean tested unit and ask yourself, again, why you have another Intellivision console before telling yourself, "Because in the zombie apocalypse one of them might stop working and THEN what would I do!?!?!?" I, more than likely, missed some things and others may have better ideas or point you to a pre-existing guide that I am unaware of. Oh... If you do anything I mentioned and break or destroy something it's all your fault, not mine.

Oh. I got that far. Next screen told me that I couldn't contact him.