Zuckerton

No, nothing changes. Sorry for the late reply, I was never notified that a reply was posted.

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

So I found a guy selling a Contra Arcade Cabinet for pretty cheap, as far as arcade cabs go; When I got out there it wouldn't turn on even though he swore it turned on the previous week, when I got back I realized that one of the "door switches" had tape on it, but wasn't taped down. I found the other one and pulled both out, the cab fired right up. The picture was really fuzzy, so I adjusted the pots on the back and got the picture clear; after a few minutes of playing, the screen dawned a blue screen, which went away, but then came back. I adjusted the Blue cutoff and drive, and while turning up the drive made it more blue, nothing helped the tint. Periodically, it will go away, but it always comes back. I noticed it turn red a couple of times as well. There was a K7000 manual in the cabinet when I bought it, but there is screen burn image at the top in places where the text isn't at (you can see the SBI 1UP is higher and a bit to the left in the pic), so I'm pretty sure this is not the original monitor. Another indication of this is that the monitor is upside down (I have DIPSW3 set to "on" to put it in upside down mode so the image is actually right side up), so it definitely had one removed and put back. One other issue I noticed is the marquee light flickers periodically and when it does, there is a static-type line that runs through the screen. I noticed the bottom peg is missing from the power adapter, so I'll be grabbing a new plug on my way home from work tomorrow. I just got this cab yesterday, so I haven't done anything aside from pulling out those door switches, messing with pots, and pulling the plexiglass out to wipe away the dead bugs. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? Thanks.

So I got in a Sega CD Model 1 today (the front-loader, which is the LAST Sega console that I needed to complete my collection), when I plug it in, I get a flash on the screen, but then it goes blank. I'm getting sound, but no video. I've heard this referred to as the "Bios Screen" and have seen a few posts about other people having the same issue, but those posts stopped before a solution was reached...or at least before one was posted I put Streets of Rage 2 in the Genesis and it powered on with no issues, so the Genesis console works fine, it's just the CD that's giving issues. Has anyone had this problem or know how to solve it? Thanks in advance!

That's cool. Most of the highly sought after consoles aren't very fun to play. The reason why they're sought after is because they're rare, the reason why they're rare is because very few people bought them, the reason very few people bought them is because there weren't enough (if any) good games for them. Just like a lot of the rare games. They're rare because they weren't mass produced and they weren't mass produced because very few people bought them and very few people bought them because they weren't good.

So I took it over to my friend (who's dad is a retired electrician) and we hooked it up, turned right on. Turns out the plug had to be shoved in (not something that I thought of at the time, hindsight is 20/20). Though it was staticy as *expletive deleted*, but when I got back, I used a different switch box (same model, just physically different) and the signal was crystal clear. Now I have only ONE issue left: The controller pulls to the right. I opened the controller, cleaned it; still pulls to the right. I opened the console (as the controller ports are locaed INSIDE THE CONSOLE) unplugged the controller, blew in both the port and the connector, reconnected it; still pulls to the right. I THEN disconnected BOTH controllers, reset the console and it STILL pulls to the right. Without any controller plugged in, the controls still pull to the right. I don't know if there is something on the board, something in the port or what. I'm at a bit of a loss here. It's a shame this thing is so obscure that few people have seen it, fewer have worked on it and even fewer have had this problem to fix.

There are many things that would classify as a "Holy Grail" in gaming on both the Game and the console side. It would depend on if we're talking in terms of how "good" it is or how "rare" it is. I have an unopened Bally Astrocade and I have a Neo Geo AES. They're by no means "Top of the Line" Holy Grail, but I think they'd be in the top 10. I'd have to say THE Holy Grail for Gaming Consoles (in terms of Rarity Value) would have to go to the APF Imagination Machine. The last time I saw one on eBay, it sold for over $1,000 (I think it was close to $1,500). Either that, the Commodore 64 GS or the FM Towns Marty. For the Atari, Pepsi Invaders. For the Nintendo, Stadium Events. You won't see any game for any other console go for as much as these two games.

The polarity is the same as the 3v that was sent to me (it wasn't listed on the adapter so I had to use a Multimeter to determine it's polarity). The 12v adapter that I got in today is a "switching adapter" that is made to be used to power cameras. I bought it because it matched the voltage, amps and polarity needed, so thought there was no reason why it shouldn't work. I don't know what "Switching Adapter" means or if it affects anything. The Megadrive (Well, the Genesis, as I live in the US) has a completely different tip. As do the adapters for my other 30 consoles, haha. Thanks for the reply though.

So I recently added the Arcadia 2001 to my collection. The issue I have is that the seller sent me a 3v DC Adapter and the Arcadia runs on 12v. The 3v adapter powers on the LED, but nothing else. So I purchased a 12v 500mA with a + Center and a - Barrel. However, when I connect THIS DC adapter, I get nothing. The LED doesn't light up at all. Has anyone worked with the 2001? I know it's a bit of an obscure console.

Replaced the Common Mode Choke, but still not getting anything. After doing some more research, I found that C30 and C31 are Multi-Layer Ceramic Capacitors. I used my multimeter to check them and I'm getting continuity at C31, but not at C30. The good news is that MLCCs are really cheap ($5 for 200), the bad news is that they are pretty difficult to replace. Once again, I'll update this just to keep it documented for the next person that has Power Issues that don't involve the DC Plug, Connector, Fuse or Volt Regulator.

I should also mention that my board is the model SHVC-CPU-01. While looking at a schematic for the other board types, I noticed "T1" and I saw much discussion about T1, which isn't labeled at all on my board. T1 (according to this guy http://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=3778.0) is a "Common Mode Choke", which I've never even heard of. I have three Super Nintendos. One has a bad fuse, but still gets a reading on the CMC, the other has a bad transistor, but gets a reading at the CMC, but this one doesn't get a reading at the CMC. So I will order a new one and hopefully that'll be the end of it. I'll update this if it works, in case someone else has the same issue.

I have a SNES that needs repaired. I've done repairs before and have replaced things such as the transistor and the pico fuse, but that doesn't solve the problem here. When testing with a multimeter, I get voltage in the solder points at the DC jack, but they don't seem to travel any further. I'm not getting anything at the C30 and C31 points. When researching, I've seen a few people say that it's a decoupling capacitor, but they don't say the voltage that it is (well ONE place said that C31 was .01uf 50v, but nothing on C30. Is 31 positive and 30 is negative?) or how to replace it. There was one guy at Assembler Games (https://www.assemblergames.com/forums/showthread.php?53079-SNES-No-Power-%28not-fuse%29) that seemed to have had the same issue, but it got difficult to follow. He started talking about "anodes" and cathodes", but I'm not sure if it still pertained to the C30 and C31 points. Then said he replaced the diode (with a 1n4001), but never said what diode he replaced, so I'm not sure if it still had anything to do with those points. I've been searching the internet trying to find any information at all on this. Console5.com doesn't even have the capacitor listed and that's where I usually go to find what capacitor I need to buy to replace in the consoles and handhelds. Anyone have any information on how to go about replacing this part? Any help (even if it's just to pointing to another forum) would be greatly appreciated.