MaximRecoil
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Posts posted by MaximRecoil
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Those are hints. You should take them.
This topic of this thread is an argument, specifically, an argument the OP started with me on a different thread, which he decided to make this "callout thread" about. The original post even attempts to summarize "argument A" and "argument b". Of course, the OP straw-manned my argument, i.e., I never argued what he claims I did, and his poll question doesn't even make sense, but regardless of that, that argument is what this thread is about. Peanut gallery-type comments, AKA: heckling, AKA: throwing paper cups from the sidelines, are not only laughably pathetic, but they are always off-topic, especially in this thread. If you don't have an argument, why are you posting on this thread?
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More importantly, why doesn't ignoring someone in the web version of the forum carry over to Tapatalk? I have to manually scroll past the dickery!
That's what she said
I forecast another week long vacation for the stickler, but I have been wrong in the past so don't count on it.
He needs one badly. But I'm not a mod sooo...
Al should give him his own subforum, call it "Guru on the Mountain". I have a feeling it would be nothing but crickets chirping.
Be careful when throwing those paper cups from the sidelines ... you could put an eye out.
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First, I'll use whatever words I want to accurately portray anything I'm selling/describing. OEM is WAAAAAAY too broadly interpreted, as this thread proves. As I said, I have found it necessary to use more precise language to accurately describe parts that I'm selling, since saying "Dodge car restored with 100% OEM parts" is very dishonest without further clarification of exactly what "OEM parts" truly means.
As I said, "Then use the word 'original'". And you have it backwards; "OEM" isn't typically too broadly interpreted, it is typically too narrowly (and incorrectly) interpreted, such as by people who seem to think it is interchangeable with the word "original".
Second, thank you for telling me exactly what I already said.I didn't do any such thing.
Yes, the distributor in my car is not an OEM part. I stated that quite clearly.It probably isn't, as I said, but that hasn't been established. What's the make and/or part number of it? If it was ever used as a factory part on any car ever made, then it is an OEM part, regardless of it not having been used as a factory part on your year/make/model of car. What the consumer uses a part for has no bearing whatsoever on whether or not it is an OEM part.
Third, my statement about the quality (or lack of it) of OEM parts is completely relevant to the discussion. Just because YOU don't find it relevant doesn't make it irrelevant to this thread. I was pointing out that OEM parts aren't always well made or designed, which conflicts with your apparent view of the quality of OEM parts. If you bring up your opinions in a discussion, you should be OK with those opinions being argued against and not simply immediately throw those points out as "irrelevant". Considering that the original question that started this thread doesn't actually make any sense should illustrate that "relevance" in this discussion could include just about anything.No, it doesn't conflict with any of my views, given that I never claimed, suggested, nor even hinted that OEM parts in general are always the best. I gave the opinion in a very specific context, which is, parts compatible with an NES controller. Naming various other products in which aftermarket parts are better than OEM parts is irrelevant, though a general rule is something like this: OEM parts are typically better than cheaper aftermarket "equivalents". On the other hand, specialty aftermarket parts built with a goal other than offering the customer a lower-priced alternative to OEM (such as fixing a known flaw, or making it heavier-duty or otherwise high-performance) are often better than OEM, and often more expensive as well. Aftermarket high-end car audio equipment blows OEM stuff out of the water, for example.
This is my last post in this thread. Believe it or not, I actually agree that an OEM part will always be an OEM part, no matter how the customer utilizes it. Just like a brick will always be a brick even if the buyer uses it as a doorstop.Then why are you arguing?
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If you want to fix it you could use a gain booster; something like this:
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OMG, just did a refresh. Walmart is up to 200 dollars now.
That isn't Wal-mart's price, that's "Toymantime, LLC's" price, whoever they are. Wal-mart's website includes listings from other sellers, like Amazon.com does. I believe you can filter the search to only include products sold by Wal-mart.
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Awesome post. I didn't think of using Google Groups; the last time I tried searching for really old posts on there, their advanced search was MIA and I haven't tried it since. I did try Google Trends, but that only went back to 2004.
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Hmm... I guess I just prefer to distinguish between what's original for one thing and what's original for another. However, I regularly deal in lots of little original parts for random and sometimes obscure products, and I've found that most people expect the term "OEM" to signify some degree of originality to the respective end product.
Then use the word "original". As I said before, all original parts are OEM, but not all OEM parts are original.
The distributor installed in my car is an aftermarket item that was made by a manufacturer that never directly sold distributors to the company that made my vehicle. However, that parts manufacturer likely makes parts that are original equipment for OTHER brands of vehicles, so the part manufacturer is most certainly an "OEM". However, that does not make the distributor I installed an OEM part, as it was never "Original Equipment" for my vehicle.
"OEM part" applies to parts that were actually manufactured by or authorized by the original manufacturer of the product the part belongs to. For example, the Ford (Motorcraft) ignition coil and the GM (AC Delco) HEI ignition module in my '69 Dodge Charger are OEM parts, because they were both factory-installed in various Ford and GM vehicles. They are obviously not original to the car, and to use them required me to modify the original ignition system, but OEM doesn't necessarily mean "original". However, if GM or Ford unilaterally decided to make clones of NES controller parts, they wouldn't be OEM parts, because the original manufacturer (Nintendo) didn't authorize it. In your case it is probably not an OEM part. A lot of the car parts OEMs make unauthorized copies of other OEMs' parts in addition to their actual OEM parts.
Besides, "OEM" isn't necessarily a good thing. I've seen many different products that have flawed OEM parts that are fixed by using higher quality aftermarket parts. For instance, Atari controllers have LOTS of upgrade kits available to correct the flaws present in lower quality parts made by Atari or their OEMs.OEM is a good thing, from my perspective, with regard to Nintendo controllers, which is the only thing relevant in this context.
LOL first off where exactly are Nintendo products made?
Not by a random factory in China, and not without input or authorization from Nintendo.
2nd your problem the entire time through both threads is you mistakenly calling Nintendo a manufacturer. Nintendo is NOT a Manufacturer. Nintendo is a Company name.Nintendo is a manufacturer, not that it's even remotely relevant. Parts in their official products are OEM regardless of who manufactured them.
Let me use real life experience for you. I worked at a Manufacturing plant called Pactiv we made lots of Styrofoam products. We made Styrofoam plates and such for many COMPANIES such as Great Value, however the parent company associated w/the manufacturing plant of Pactiv was Reynolds. This means the Company Reynolds such as for Reynolds wrap has their products made by the Manufacturer Pactiv, just as Great Value, and Hefty, and so on.
Again, this is irrelevant.
Nintendo does NOT manufacture anythingFalse. Here's at least one thing they manufacture:
Nintendo's Australian subsidiary is based in Melbourne, Victoria. It handles the publishing, distribution, sales and marketing of Nintendo products in Australia, New Zealand, and Oceania (Cook Islands, Fiji, New Caledonia, Papua New Guinea, Samoa, and Vanuatu). It also manufactures some Wii games locally.they pay Manufacturing plants "IN CHINA might I ad" to make them their products for them. Manufacturing is a chain of plants.Again, irrelevant. And I already know that much of Nintendo's stuff is made in China these days. I pointed it out several days ago on the huge NES mini thread, when discussing how cheaply they could have an HDMI-to-A/V adapter made if they wanted to. There's nothing inherently wrong with stuff made in China. China has nuclear weapons. They can manufacture high quality and even exotic stuff when they want to. Knockoff products made in random Chinese factories don't tend to be very good though.
Nintendo will say what they want and check and make sure the product is made to their specifications but that is all they do.Which is all that matters. When Nintendo manufacturers or has someone manufacture parts for their products, those parts are OEM by definition.
So to sum up what you want to say properly is as follow.
You would rather use a classic mini controller for parts for an original NES controller because it has Nintendo's approval of quality from whatever OEM facility they chose which is NOT Nintendo because Nintendo is NOT a manufacturer. You would rather use these Nintendo approved OEM classic mini components that replicate the original NES controller but are not made for the original Nes controller instead of using aftermarket components designed specifically for the NES controller. Go right ahead.
It doesn't make any difference what product they are made for as long as they do what I want them to do, which they will, as the video that someone linked to on the other thread proves. I'll take Nintendo's choices regarding grades of rubber, conductive coating, conductive coating attachment methods, grades of plastic, tolerances, and so on, over some random Chinese factory's choices.
Also, your suggestion isn't even a comparable alternative to what I want to do, as I've pointed out more than once before. Your suggestion just gets you new rubber switches. What I want to do gets me new rubber switches, a new shell, new buttons, and a new D-pad, i.e., everything that counts with regard to appearance, feel, and function will be brand new, and it will look identical to an original NES controller, aside from the small print on the back.
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Lets have a civil response.
*Proceeds to construct a straw man*
Well, there goes that.
Fixed. There is nothing civil about constructing a straw man. On the other hand, I haven't said anything uncivil in this thread.
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This article flat-out sucks. A lot of the flavour text used to describe some of these games and their prices made me visibly wince. No better than kotaku, they're both just two sides of the same "muh childhooooood / whoa haha nerd culture, right?" coin.
Also, their prices are completely misleading. $6.49 for an NES AND StarTropics, my ass. Even if it was missing a 72-pin, it wouldn't be that cheap. The line about the extra screw in the cartridge was pretty dumb as well. Clearly this writer has no idea what he's talking about.
The author linked to the eBay auction in the article, and I'm sure the bid was at $6.49 at the time. He doesn't seem to understand the concept of an auction though. The winning bid was $31.74 plus $11.74 shipping. That's a pretty good deal for a NES console that doesn't appear to be yellowed or cracked/chipped, with two original controllers, power brick, A/V cables, and a game, though it's obviously a far cry from $6.49. The blinking light is a non-issue, assuming it has its original 72-pin connector. A proper cleaning will make it work like new again.
The auctions for some of the other stuff he linked to are still running.
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Dude your whole argument was based off the fact you stated wanting to use the new classic mini controllers for replacement parts for the nes controllers.
So? What else would I use them for?
I said I see no reason why to use the new ones and you replied because they are not OEM. That right there implies you are saying new classic mini controllers components are OEM to nes controllers.It implies no such thing, especially since "OEM to nes controllers" is pure jibberish. Since you seem to think that "OEM" is an alternate spelling of "original", I'll assume you meant "original to nes controllers", and in that case, NES Mini controller parts are obviously not original parts for NES controllers; that goes without saying. I want OEM because in my experience, OEM is the safest bet in terms of quality (which I've already pointed out in the other thread), because they are built to the design and specifications of the original manufacturer. The alternative is parts made in a random Chinese factory with no input or authorization whatsoever from the original manufacturer. Me wanting OEM parts has nothing to do with originality.
You are now trying to change your entire argument from the last thread. Maybe what you meant and what you wrote are 2 different things.... I would fully believe that coming from you.
I haven't changed anything. You can't quote me saying anything even remotely similar to what you've claimed my argument was, because I never said any such thing. I said they were OEM, full stop, which they, in fact, are. The issue here is that OEM doesn't mean what you think it means, which I pointed out to you immediately in that other thread, and reiterated several times. Your poll question is a straw man. It also doesn't mean anything in the English language.
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My post says no such thing. I never argued "that the classic mini controllers made today in 2016 are OEM to the Original NES controllers manufactured 30 years ago," because such an argument is nonsense, i.e., "OEM to the Original NES controllers" doesn't mean anything in the English language. I said that they are OEM, period, and they are. Again, the term "OEM" is not interchangeable with the term "original". Your poll is a straw man.
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It is my opinion that your definition of OEM may be a bit too broad.
For instance, the AM radios used in 1967 and 1968 Mustangs are 100% interchangeable. However, there are a few minor differences, such as the radio station preset buttons being different (chromed on the 67 versions and black on the 68 units) and the both having different parts numbers. Both are "OEM" Ford radios. However, a 1968 radio is NOT an OEM 1967 Mustang part. Anyone selling a 1968 Mustang AM radio as an OEM 1967 Mustang radio is mistaken. In the end, it is a 1968 Mustang radio that just happens to also be compatible with the 1967 model year cars.
You are right... an OEM part is an OEM part. However, an OEM part for one thing is NOT an OEM "Original Equipment" part for something different.
Consequently, a 2016 Nintendo NES Classic controller is NOT an OEM 1980s NES controller. The internal component differences should reinforce this fact. However, the 2016 controller IS compatible with the PCB/cord of the 1980s controller.
In your definition, any company that has ever made parts for any other company is an OEM, even if the parts themselves are different for different applications. Looking at another extreme, if I shove a 1970s Pioneer stereo into a Scion car, is it still an OEM radio (since Scion vehicles are equipped with Pioneer stereos as original equipment, and consequently, Pioneer is an "Original Equipment Manufacturer")?
It would seem you are focusing too much on the "Manufacturer" part of the term "OEM", and not enough on the "Original" part...
"OEM" is an often misused term, so it's easy to see how people interpret it differently.
You're also conflating the term "OEM" with "original", and yes, it is an often misused term, misused in exactly the way you are misusing it. "OEM part" simply means a part manufactured by an OEM, and a part manufactured by an OEM is always an OEM part regardless of what you do with it. Again, "OEM" actually refers to the manufacturer.
All original parts on a particular product are OEM, but not all OEM parts are original. To further complicate matters, there are two degrees of what people consider to be "original":
1. The specific part that was installed at the factory on your product.
2. An identical part from the same manufacturer, often taken from a different example of the same make and model product.
With regard to parts that have serial numbers, people are less likely to use/accept the number 2 sense of the word "original", which is where the concept of "numbers matching" comes into play.
But either way, OEM is not synonymous with "original".
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Would the lockout chip happen to be enabled ?
The only default ive seen on a switch is the pins for the LEDs bridging through corrosion.
Ive messed with at least 50 nes consoles by now.
I disabled the lockout chip on all my NESs many years ago. There's no way for me to know whether the problem was the dirty switch contacts or a bad solder joint on the switch's PCB, because I cleaned the contacts and resoldered all of the joints without testing in between, i.e., the shotgun approach. Whatever the problem was, it works perfectly now.
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Yeah, you wouldn't expect 2016 Dodge Charger parts to fit on a '69 General Lee. Same applies here. Both cables have five wires but the similarities end there.
The fact that you can successfully do a board swap, as proven by the video that you graciously linked to, proves that the similarities don't end there. Also, the fact that a NES and NES Mini controller are visually ~indistinguishable aside from [presumably] the markings on the back, the cord length, and style of plug, proves that the similarities don't end there.
You might not expect hood hinges from a 1970s (and some 1980s) Dodge fullsize pickup to fit on a '69 Charger either, but they do. And of course, this has nothing to do with whether or not a given part is OEM. OEM status is determined by who manufactured it, not by what some random person eventually uses it for or what it's compatible with.
Physically there are minute differences under the hood. Even the membranes are not an exact fit. My recommendation is to use aftermarket membranes (if a good cleaning isn't enough) to refurbish your vintage controllers.
Or, you can just do a board swap and end up with a Nintendo-brand controller which works with an NES, that's all brand new aside from the PCB and cord.
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Lets have a civil response.
It is being argued that the classic mini controllers made today in 2016 are OEM to the Original NES controllers manufactured 30 years ago.
Argument A. They are OEM because both controllers were authorized by Nintendo, Therefore the classic mini controllers are OEM to the originals.
Argument B. They are NOT OEM because they are different, made 30 years later, and made for an entirely different system, and most likely manufactured by a completely different company.
No, I haven't argued that "the classic mini controllers made today in 2016 are OEM to the Original NES controllers manufactured 30 years ago." I've pointed out more than once that there's no such thing as "OEM to (insert product here)". You're conflating the term "OEM" with the term "original". It is valid to say that something is original to something, but it makes no sense to say that something is OEM to something. NES Mini controller parts are obviously not original to NES controllers, but that doesn't change the fact that they are OEM parts.
Strictly speaking, the term "OEM" refers to a manufacturer, e.g., "Company A is an OEM for Company B". In vernacular we also refer to certain parts as "OEM", meaning they were manufactured by an OEM. An OEM part is always an OEM part, regardless of what you use it for. It is an OEM part when sitting on the shelf, it is an OEM part if jury-rigged to work with a product from an unrelated manufacturer, and so on. If it was manufactured by an OEM it is an OEM part forever.
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Nah, would never waste my time that way. IF there are any access points (usually a hole, slits or ends exposed), would simply douche it out with DeOxit and call it good.
There aren't any access points, though you could unhook the clasps of the cover and bend it up a little to spray something in there. But there's nothing to removing the cover completely (you just have to straighten two metal tabs in addition to unhooking the plastic clasps), at which point you have full access to the simple switch mechanism.
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It should be obvious that I know what "monkey see, monkey do" means.
No, it shouldn't be obvious, given that you don't know what "tacit" or "piece of work" means.
I was trying to make a joke. Just like Kosmic Stardust was doing earlier, when you turned into your dickish self again for no reason on post #1612. There's your example of you being snarky with no provocation.
False. Kosmic Stardust made a false accusation (blatant provocation), and also tried to refute things I'd never said (i.e., straw man).
I'm done with you. Ignored. That way, I even get the last word!Like your false assertion above, reality is precisely the opposite of what you think it is. When you ignore someone, they get the "last word" by default.
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Have handled dozens of systems throughout the years and have yet to run across a bad NES power switch myself. Probably the most reliable component on the system!
I had never encountered one either before today. I haven't tested that particular NES for many years, so either the switch wasn't flaky then, or I didn't notice it.
Have you ever looked at the inside of the switch? It's an excellent, and very simple design. I don't see how it could ever wear out. In my case, a simple cleaning of the contacts made it work like new again. The reset switch is the same design, except it doesn't have the click mechanism.
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A lot of times, metal that appears clean really isn't. Most people clean contacts with rubbing alcohol, which is only marginally effective. A potent acid such as oxalic acid is what's needed, because, unlike solvents, it cuts through oxidation. However, consoles which use standard card edge connectors like the SNES are pretty tolerant of contacts that aren't perfectly clean, so that's probably not the problem.
What you described sounds like one or more bad solder joints, most likely among the solder joints that connect the card edge connector to the motherboard. If it were mine, I'd desolder every one of them and resolder them all. You could also just "reflow" them all, which is easier and faster. It could also be a broken trace near the card edge connector, but a bad solder joint is more likely.
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I made you call yourself a monkey! I win!
No one is being called a monkey; "monkey see, monkey do" is a term which refers to the phenomenon of someone who imitates without understanding the principles of what he's imitating. That's why you ended up misapplying the term "tacit". You also don't seem to know what the common "piece of work" expression means, but that's not part of the "monkey see, monkey do" effect.
My point is, you seem like an intelligent and knowledgeable bloke, but you wield that knowledge with a sword of +4 dickishness.On forums of this sort, I'm never snarky to anyone who isn't snarky first. If you disagree with that, go ahead and try to find an example where I issued the first snarky remark. There are a lot of people who get upset when someone disagrees with / refutes something they have said, and they jump right into snide mode. Then there are some people who are flat-out "trolls", offering up peanut gallery-type comments to posts that weren't even directed at them in the first place.
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About the Super DodgeBall comment, I'm sure the flicker would be non-existent on the 7800, but there would be less detail in the background image because of it - and low res to boot. Not sure a combination of both would make it a superior port.
The 7800 has a 320 x 240 mode, which is higher resolution than the NES (256 x 240), but I'm not a programmer, so I don't know the caveats/limitation of using that mode. If 320 x 240 could be used for a Dodge Ball port, and if it doesn't carry with it some weird limitations like only having 4 colors or something like that, I would expect it to have at least passable graphics, and without the severe flicker of the NES version. The Pokey sound chip would be a must, because the NES Dodge Ball has some good music, especially the tune that plays during the final match (the "mirror match").
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I replaced the aftermarket 72-pin connectors in a couple of my spare front-loaders with well-used OEM ones today, and on one of them, I noticed the power switch was acting up. When I powered it on, there was a brief flash of purple on the screen, then a brief delay, and then it booted the game correctly. I played SMB for a few minutes, and when I went to turn it off, just touching the power switch interrupted the power and reset the game. Normally you can press the switch all the way in with the game running and it won't affect anything until you release it.
There was a power/reset switch assembly on eBay with a BIN of $7.49, free shipping, and I was about to order it, but I decided to have a look at the switch first. After straightening two metal prongs, the plastic cover of the switch snaps right off, and surprisingly, the switch has a very simple, robust design. I should have taken a picture, but I didn't think of it. There are two metal prongs which are soldered to the PCB, and the button that you push has a flat piece of metal attached to it. When you push the button, the flat piece of metal shorts those two metal prongs. The click mechanism that holds the button in and then releases when you push it again it is the exact same design as the cartridge tray's click mechanism; just a smaller version of it. The design appears to be bulletproof; I don't see how it could ever fail, aside from the contacts getting dirty, which was the case here.
So I cleaned the contacts with Bar Keepers Friend, which quickly made them shine like new, and for good measure, since I had it all apart anyway, I desoldered and resoldered all the joints on the power/reset switch assembly's PCB, even though they all looked fine to begin with. The switch works perfectly now.
So this can be added to the list of things which are easily fixable on an NES front-loader. Other things I've easily fixed include "dead" AC adapters (which in the case of the NES is actually just a 120V to 9V step-down transformer), flaky or non-working RF switches, and OEM 72-pin connectors. Unlike the myth perpetuated by e.g., Wikipedia ...
The newly designed connector worked quite well when both the connector and the cartridges were clean and the pins on the connector were new. Unfortunately, the ZIF connector was not truly zero insertion force. When a user inserted the cartridge into the NES, the force of pressing the cartridge down and into place bent the contact pins slightly, as well as pressing the cartridge’s ROM board back into the cartridge itself. Frequent insertion and removal of cartridges caused the pins to wear out from repeated usage over the years... in reality, the OEM 72-pin connectors never "wear out" (though they can be ruined by being vandalized, i.e., someone bending the pins upward in a misguided effort to fix them; I ruined a couple of them myself that way about 15 years ago before I figured out how to properly clean them). The three of them I got in the mail today were from a guy who had removed them from "blinking NESs" to replace them with aftermarket ones (which are junk in my experience), and they were so well-used that several of the thin plastic vanes between each pin had long since broken off. They have next to no grip on the cartridge pins when you slide the cartridge in, which is exactly how they're supposed to be. They are now installed in my spare front-loaders and working perfectly, first time, every time (the aftermarket ones worked on the first try maybe 80% of the time, and applied a death grip to the cartridges).
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He obviously wants to use a classic mini as he is not happy w/original NES controllers.
Of course I'm not happy with beat up original NES controllers with torn rubber switches. I am happy with my pair of NOS original NES controllers though, obviously.
We all know these are differentFor what I plan to do, they aren't different in any meaningful way.
and OEM to him means something completely different than OEM to the rest of us.This is ironic, considering you clearly don't know what OEM means. OEM refers to a part made by an original manufacturer or manufacturer authorized by the original manufacturer. It is the opposite of aftermarket.
He would be happy using a Ford Taurus part to fix a Ford Mustang Shelby GT just because they are both branded by Ford.There are no doubt plenty of parts from a Ford Taurus that will fit a Ford Mustang, and yes, they are all OEM. What you use the parts for is irrelevant to whether or not something is OEM. You could use a Ford intake manifold as a door stop and it would still be an OEM part. You could use Motorcraft spark plug wires on a Chevrolet, and they would still be OEM Ford plug wires.
He fails to comprehend Nintendo does NOT make anything they have. Other companies make parts and it seems to escape his ability of reasoning that the manufacturer that made something 30 years ago is not the same manufacturer making these today. Hence OEM is NOT the same.More irony. OEM includes parts from any manufacturer which is authorized by the original manufacturer to make the part. In fact, originally, that's only what OEM referred to:
"An original equipment manufacturer (OEM) is a company that makes a part or subsystem that is used in another company's end product.[1] For example, if Acme Manufacturing Co. makes power cords that are used on IBM computers, Acme is an OEM."
To me and practically everyone else in the world who knows these new classic mini's are made today and made in China like every other replacement part out there. Everything is aftermarket, regardless if they are branded by Nintendo or Hyperkin. There is a reason aftermarket starts with After.Again, OEM doesn't mean what you think it means. And no, not many people share your misconception, let alone "practically everyone else in the world". See above.
Wen someone can't comprehend ORIGINAL, they surely can not comprehend Aftermarket.Get some popcorn awaiting the 10 page response defending how Nintendo is still OEM when everyone knows they only put their name on stuff and don't actually manufacture anything.
Irony again. See above, again.
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Your tacit attempt to redefine "work" is denied.
This is the best example of the concept of "monkey see, monkey do" I've ever seen online. Thanks.
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Are Classic Mini controllers OEM to Nintendo controllers made 30 years ago?
in Classic Console Discussion
Posted · Edited by MaximRecoil
It is called Nintendo Australia; "Nintendo" is right in the name. They own it (not just control it), just like they own Nintendo of America, Nintendo of Europe, and Nintendo of Korea. So yes, that is at least one thing that Nintendo manufactures.
Irony.
Even if your reasoning here were correct (it isn't; see above), it wouldn't have proven "that Nintendo does not manufacturer anything".
It is nothing like that example.
This is a non sequitur, and a comical one at that, considering just how far removed from reality it is.
And this is even funnier. Yes, it does have a name: Nintendo Australia.