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About newtmonkey

  • Rank
    Chopper Commander

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Nagoya, Japan
  • Interests
    Video games, horror movies, jogging & cycling & weight training, piano
  • Currently Playing
    Donkey Kong PK - 7800
    Wizardry V: Heart of the Maelstrom - PC
    Mario's Picross - Game Boy
  1. There's a huge difference between wanting more options, and "serves him right for his products being bootlegged by the Chinese because too many customers like his products."
  2. Krikzz doesn't "put out" the SD2SNES plans, the project is open source and Krikzz is simply one of the manufacturers/sellers. It's perfectly fine for anyone to release an SD2SNES.
  3. I've got a working Mega CD 2 and a small library of games for it, but I don't know that I love the Mega CD library enough to spend this kind of money on an ODE/FPGA solution. I also don't trust Terraonion right now due to how they handled their PC Engine ODE (I have one of the latter revisions and it works, but it's still got problems), though I understand they actually worked with someone who knows what they're doing to get the audio right this time around. Could end up being awesome. One thing to worry about is if they pull the same registration stuff this time around. For their PCE device you need to tie an email address to your serial number to download firmware updates. I don't even like having to register with a massive company to download firmware updates for my $50 mouse, never mind registering with a somewhat temperamental handful of guys to download firmware updates for my ~$300 PC Engine optical drive emulator.
  4. Back in the day I was hoping and praying for an "arcade perfect" port of MK2 (and wouldn't have minded a port of MK1 to make up for the awful SNES version). Instead, I had to settle for... Kasumi Ninja.
  5. I can't see Jag stuff (specifically systems) getting cheaper. There's only so much out there (based on how much hardware was actually manufactured) and the system/library doesn't have the nostalgia that pretty much every other system has since it was basically despised back in the day and it's reputation has only got worse thanks to being included on "worst system ever" lists all over the Internet. By now most of the systems HAVE to be in the hands of (1) the few people who actually like the system (like me) and (2) collectors who just need to have it cuz whatever. I suppose there's also some people holding onto Jags hoping to turn an eventual profit, but that's obviously not going to help prices. I think it's an issue of scale. I'm sure a ton of people went out and tracked down 2600s as adults in a fit of nostalgia. The difference, though, is that EVERYONE had a 2600 when they kids (slight exaggeration) and so it wasn't hard to just find someone who still had one in the attic, or track one down at a garage sale. That kept reseller prices down, because who would pay a premium if you could just step out your front door and trip over a 2600?
  6. It's not a translation issue this time, it literally says that it just outputs composite video without upscaling it. I don't understand the point of this product. You can get a composite -> HDMI converter for the same price and will likely get the same quality in the end, but can use it with other systems too.
  7. I just installed this in my Apple IIc, though it apparently works with the entire classic Apple II range: https://www.bigmessowires.com/shop/product-category/floppy-emu/ It works great and using the built-in screen is not as annoying as I thought it would be (just need to sort your disk images into folders to minimize scrolling up and down too much). Building the included case was a bit of a pain, but once I got it all together it was fine. I haven't used any other drive emulators, but I'm happy with this one.
  8. They're all good for different things. Nothing will beat original hardware hooked up to a CRT, but hooking up an original NES to a modern LCD ruins the experience completely for me due to (depending on the TV) poor handling of 240p, lag, etc. An upscaler with original hardware works beautifully, but that's a ton of money to spend just to play your NES. The Retron is find if all you want to do is fire the flames of nostalgia and play the game how you remembered them from your childhood (sort of). It's a fine device to just pull out of the closet, plug in, and play some Mario or what have you for a night. The AVS is a thing of beauty, and if all you want to do is play NES games with 99.9999% accuracy compared with actual hardware looking beautiful on a modern LCD, I'd recommend it whole-heartedly. Even though I've got a PVM with an actual AV Famicom hooked up in my office, I prefer to play on my AVS hooked up to my living room TV.
  9. Happy birthday GB! Game Boy is really a very unique handheld in that it was the first (and only imo) to provide a quality of gameplay equal to that of the leading console of the time. It's basically a black and white NES but with stereo sound. Future handhelds tended to lag a generation behind. I still play GB to this day, and there are so many options to further improve the experience of playing these games. My absolute favorite way to play GB is on a backlit bivert DMG-01 with prosound mod to eliminate the backlight buzz, with the Game Boy Light being my second fav.
  10. Amiga 600 with Gotek drive or (even better) with complete compact flash setup. Irrational because I would want a PAL system but only NTSC was available here, so I'd have to import it with all the trouble and expense that comes with. Also irrational because I don't really have any personal/nostalgic connection to the Amiga (I was a C64 kid and I had a friend who had an Atari ST), and I have a miniMIG that works pretty much perfect just for playing Amiga games. Still want a 600 though! haha
  11. Just for fun, here are the settings I've been using. I adjusted the settings while looking at my actual MD connected via RGB to my Sony PVM CRT display. (Note my Mega SG is connected to a 4K TV and running in 720p for the better scanlines vs 1080p.) Note that Master System games (at least when running on MD) have very noticeable borders on the top and bottom of the screen on real hardware, just like the Mega SG. The only way to get rid of these on actual hardware is to stretch the image vertically, and I doubt developers assumed customers would have access to service mode settings to do this just for playing games. Just to be safe, I also compared my Master System settings to offscreen photos of actual Master System games on CRTs I found online, and they were very close indeed. MD/GEN & SMS COMMON SETTINGS ----------------------------------------------- Height: 720 Horizontal/vertical interpolation: ON (i.e. NOT disabled) [i just prefer this; if you want slightly sharper, disable vertical interpolation] Scanlines: Hybrid (+120) RGB Range: Limited (see My Life in Gaming for an explanation why you would want to do this) Gamma: +1.20 (all linked; only if you use scanlines, otherwise default settings) MD/GENESIS ---------------- Width: 950 (for both 320 + 256 res games) Top/bottom/left/right mask: ON MASTER SYSTEM ----------------------- Width: 890 Cropping: L 0, R 0, T 8, B 11 *On actual hardware on a CRT, there is always going to be a border on the top and bottom showing, so this should be included when calculating the 4:3 AR. These settings give you basically one "tile" worth of border on the top and bottom, which is pretty close to what my PVM shows with actual hardware. Feel free to set top and bottom cropping to 23/25 (or whatever setting completely removes them), though doing so might "fool" you into thinking the game is in "widescreen" haha. I'm just listing these if anyone wants to give them a shot. I'm not saying they are better than anything else (FBX settings are definitely "scientifically" more accurate), but these give me an aspect ratio VERY close to that of my consoles hooked up to my CRT.
  12. I'll have to try 1080p sometime to compare, but I found the preset 4:3 settings for 720p to be slightly too narrow for my tastes—but definitely better than 1:1 or 8:7 (for Super NT). Strangely, the preset 4:3 setting on 720p for Master System is pretty much a perfect 4:3 ratio when you take the borders into consideration.
  13. FBX Pre VA7 Genesis Model 1 audio settings really made quite a difference. It sounds VERY close to my actual Model 1. I really don't agree with his insistence of stretching 320 games so that artwork matches the intentions of the artists* (i.e. round planets in Thunderforce III etc). If you plug a MD/GEN into a CRT, the planets are definitely not round in TF3, and that's just the way it is. I understand his point on aspect ratio based on clock rate, square pixels vs rectangular pixles etc etc etc... but in the end, the only thing that makes sense to me is trying to get the same aspect ratio as a MD/GEN plugged into a CRT. I found that setting both 320 and 256 res to 933H 720V provides an AR very close to CRT, so that's what I've gone with. *Especially since he has been against using the native 8:7 ratio of the SNES/SFC resolution—even if assets in some games were likely drawn with that ratio in mind (i.e. bubbles in Yoshi's Island, ball form in Super Metroid)—and prefers the 4:3 CRT aspect ratio.
  14. The problem with those is that they look horrible even judging from 1999 eyes (or even 1979/1981 eyes for that matter)!
  15. Nostalgia overload! I first saw this series of games in the catalogs that came with the SSI games I got on my C64 back in the day. I got my C64 pretty late so there weren't many C64 games left on the shelves, so I never got to pick up Roadwar. I did play it a bit later on my friend's Atari ST. The CRPG Addict has an informative write-up on Roadwar 2000 which might provide some tips (he did finish the game): https://crpgaddict.blogspot.com/2017/02/game-242-roadwar-2000-1986.html (For anyone not familiar with his site, he is playing and completing every RPG released on home computers in chronological order, and is up to 1992 currently).
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