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About Unstablewarpfield

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    Chopper Commander
  • Birthday 05/09/1983

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  • Interests
    Retro gaming, wood working, punk rock, astronomy
  • Currently Playing
    Zelda: a link to the past.
  • Playing Next
    Magician Lord

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  1. I'm fine with an initial vga release, even though I am mainly in this for a digital output on my colecovision. Currently running Coleco with an F18a to a scart switcher using a sync combiner but my poor switcher is full so I could use the space...
  2. For Lynx 1 I made this solution now... Desoldered most of the original power circuit. It uses a 10000 mAh Lipo that charges through usb. The usb port is situated where the dc connector used to be. On/off switch works. Lynx also powers down according to atari's timer. Just a proof of concept for now since some minor tweaks are still needed.
  3. That would be awesome! Really trying to make these as universal as can be. :-)
  4. Maybe to clarify a bit... I am trying to build a mod to replace the power circuit with a usb charging LiPo. In the topic "the perfect lynx" I saw that someone managed to do this with an Adafruit powerboost 1000c and an ltc 2950, utilising the inverter present on the lynx. My board has all of this present. It's kind of in qsb form. You have to strip the original power circuit and my design fits on top of that. The microusb connector fits exactely through the opening of the original power connector. 4 leads are used to secure the mod to the motherboard. I added a 10000 mAh LiPo which fits exactely in the space where the batteries were. (Did have to dremel out a piece though.) The original ON button is used to switch the console on and off. Poweron and AC connected function as they should, meaning the console will still auto shutdown when off the power the save battery. It also features 2 optional pads to connect the mcwill mod to. Wires can really be kept to a minimum. Here's the board. I'll post pictures as soon as I have the pcb in and populated. I have a test version installed at the moment which functions perfect. The only thing I need to know is info on the location of some of the critical holes on different revisions. If I'm lucky they are all in thesame location and Atari kept the power circuit identical, but before I have that info I can't be sure, hence the topic
  5. Hey guys, Simple question. For a mod I'm developing I am looking for pictures of the different revisions of motherboards in the Lynx 1 units. Mine says it's a Rev B 2 motherboard. How many are out there? Perticularly the power section of the board is of interest to me. If anybody could help me out with some pictures or links that would be greatly appreciated Cheerz!
  6. I'm in the process of designing an all in one board for this mod. Using the schematics of the powerboost 1000c I was wondering if I could ditch the whole usb output side and stick to 5.0V and GND only? I know the usb output uses some resistors on its D- and D+ connections but isn't this only of importance when connecting a usb device to it like a tablet or a phone? I'd like to strip as much away as possible from the original powerboost board to keep it small in size and to make space for an LTC2950 and an inverter.
  7. Topic says it all. I thought to ask here first before delving into it myself. I know about the C41 trick and have tried to solder a usb cable to that capacitor. Works fine ofcourse, but I'd like to use the original buttons to switch on/off the console while only using 5V. (Ideally a mini usb port where the power socket now is would be fantastic.) Is this possible?
  8. Allright... I finally did the install (thought I had all parts covered but I forgot the jst terminal connector). It has been running for hours and the only thing I notice is some heat on the top of the case towards the power button. It's not excessive so I'm hoping this is normal. Until now... pretty happy with the result. On to a decent rgb mod now :-)
  9. Fantastic. This makes me realise why forums like this are so valuable. Thanks again! I'll report back next week when the install is done!
  10. I ordered it! They ship for free and it arrives here on wednesday. Not bad for an order from the US to EU... As I see now... this transformer does state 16VDC as output... I don't really know if I should route DC through C4, C3 and L1 to the rectifier (can it hurt?) or if I should just bypass that. Easiest option is to leave everything as it is. Edit: I just see the specs certify it as 16V CT, while mousers says 16VDC CT... We'll see I guess
  11. I was thinking something like this although I just don't know if 30VA will be ok. https://nl.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/FD6-16?qs=Fg5d7evCuakB9SS43pC6ZQ%3D%3D
  12. Thanks a lot for this! I tried finding a transformer that has an output a bit closer to what specs say (15VAC) and I hit a bit of a wall here. The 3do states 30W on the bottom, and I'm not quite certain how many VA to go for. I'm assuming up from that number, so I tried looking around the 35-45VA with a 230VAC input and a 15VAC output. The thing is... I seem to find models with either 20 VA or 50 VA. The 20VA models would all fit really nicely as they have the correct dimensions. I am just worried that they will not have the power requirements needed? When I bump it up to 50VA the dimensions are not correct and the transformer would not fit. Any advice what would be safe to use as a transformer capacity?
  13. Thanks for replying. Soldering is not a big deal, I've modded many consoles so far. I just don't know enough about power supplies... What I do know is that it has a separate step down transformer that outputs 15V AC. Here is a link to the schematics of the power supply. http://atariage.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=524629 These 15V AC are taken into a circuit to output 5V and 9V DC. Seems to me that as long as I feed 15V AC into that circuit I should be fine? I have found some transformers that can do this, although I am not certain if 50Hz/60Hz will be a problem. When I receive the console I'd have to measure a bit to see if one of them physically fits but before that I want to be very sure that what I'm trying won't damage the console in any way...
  14. Hey guys, I have my eye on a Japanese FZ-1 system. I'd be able to get it for quite a good price, but before I purchase I would like to know if it is possible to avoid an external step down convertor (I'm European) by replacing the build in 110V/60Hz to 15V AC step down transformer with one that follows the specs for my location. Something like a 30VA 230V/50-60Hz to 15V transformer? Or am I thinking to easy about this? Anyone know of an example where someone has made this work? Thanks!
  15. I have looping not working on my PAL coleco. I believe when I hit a fire button it freezes on me. Smurf and donkey kong are giving me random trouble (not starting or freezing being the most common one). I'd love to try and update my f18. Have a jtag cable ready here.
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