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Unstablewarpfield

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Posts posted by Unstablewarpfield

  4. Posted · Edited by Unstablewarpfield

    Boards came in today. At least thats something. As you can see this intellivision has a bit more coming to it besides a new psu ;-)

    Things to do for the psu are:

    - Add a component list with values on the pcb.
    - Add a screw terminal voor AC in. It seemed like a good idea to repurpose the stock connector. Also... see how I messed up the number of connections on the AC-in in this board. It's supposed to be 5 pins lol. No idea why I thought it would be worth keeping because it is not, but for testing this is going to be fine. That is... if ever the dac25-16 will be manufactured. No date yet according to mouser.

     

    Oh well... at least the dimensions are correct 😛

     

     

     

    8caf02a13fadf36134002ec5c2fdcf6a.jpg

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-N960F met Tapatalk
     

    • Like 1

  5. Posted



    No worries. Was just making sure it wasn't a purposeful design choice? It wouldn't matter honestly as long as whoever is putting it back together, new which lead had the +5 on it. If you connected it wrong, it wouldn't do anything anyway and it isn't like there isn't room for that connector to be plugged in either way.
     
    I like that buss fuse in the design! Very nice. Are you going to design it so that the AC cord that is in these now isn't needed and a more normal figure 8 plug is installed or something similar? I'm assuming this is to do away with the transformer setup that resides in them currently? Also are you leaving the output sipp jack the same as the original? If so that would be good to make sure the pin pitch remains the same so alternate connectors can be used. I personally replaced the ribbon cable out on mine and use a JST connector on it with separate wires then soldered to the mainboard now.


    The psu will have a jst connector in place of the ribbon cable. That thing comes apart just by looking at. I did thesame thing as you did... rip it out and solder jst connectors in. One could however desolder the original ribbon cable connector and use that on the replacement psu if desired.

    I repurposed the original header connectors, but in the final design I might use some block terminals.

    This psu works indeed without the transformer, so it should be possible to get rid of that. I am working on a pal unit, and (at least mine) came stock with a figure 8 ac connector. I did not realise the ac cords on ntsc machine were hardwired?

    Anyways... I'll have to wait for that ac/dc converter to arrive. Until then I can't really work on this unfortunately. As soon as I have updates I'll post them here :-)

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  6. Posted

    The +5 and GND at the top right are reversed on your picture here than they are on actual Intellivisions. At least the NTSC ones have those in reverse order. In fact, all the ones I've worked on don't even have a wire for the GND attached, just a single wire off that connector for the +5.
     
    I know, but thanks for pointing it out. This is an older version of the psu that I put together in a hurry. Be assured that on the final version everything is where it is supposed to be ;-)

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-N960F met Tapatalk

  9. Posted

    This what I made for my Videopac g7000. Small size qsb that solders directly to the main board. This is a prototype. Pcb has been updated in the mean time. Gerbers will be released soon. 73314f5e0c79b392f373b34a5c48afd3.jpg9238785f9a1eecb027fa02a7aac95c4d.jpgaa6b483d5dc265891f37c115fda7cee4.jpg09cbdbd5f3d2f613358169c4e233538a.jpg

     

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-N960F met Tapatalk

     

     

    • Like 7

  10. Posted

    Here is a first redraft of the pcb. I was able to put all components on the original size power pcb. It's not quite done yet. I'll also still have to investigate the current draw of the Intv on all 4 voltage lines. I'm hoping that the 1.56A the DAC25 delivers is enough. If not... there is the challenge of finding a more powerfull AC/DC converter within thesame dimension, or go for an open-frame converter. They tend to be lower. I do like the formfactor of a fully closed converter though. More on the AC/DC converter can be found here

    Furthermore... I have read about older versions requiring -3.3V instead of -2.1V. An added jumper or two could accomodate for that so that the adp5074 has a programmable output voltage, servicing -2.1V as well as -3.3 models.
    Intellivision-uni-PSU-top.png

    Intellivision-uni-PSU-bottom.png

    • Like 3

  11. Posted · Edited by Unstablewarpfield

    After a bit of tinkering this is what I came up with.

     

    16V from the DAC25-16.

    12V from a Traco power TSR 2-2412 switching regulator.

    5V from a Traco power TSR 2-2450 switching regulator, cascading into the ADP5074, configured for -2.1V. 

     

    Now to fit everything within the dimensions of the original pcb size. I started out with most components 0805. I can drop to 0603 or even 0402 if needed 🙂

    Intv-uni-psu-rev2.png

    • Like 3

  13. Posted · Edited by Unstablewarpfield

    Ok, so doodling around a bit in Eagle with the schematic in the start of this topic gives me this as a base. (schematic not finished) I'm not too happy with that Zener. 

     

    I was thinking instead of this... maybe it's possible to use a 16V AC/DC power module with a 12V DC/DC, 5V DC/DC and an isolated DC/DC converter for -2.1V 

     

    I saw for example the DAC25-16, which is a nice pcb mountable power module. But I'm uncertain if a max current of 1.56A is enough to drive the console. I'll have to measure current draws on all voltage lines during gameplay to see what is going on there. 

    There is the option of the DAC40-16, which delivers more power, but it also is taller and does not fit the case. I determined 25mm as the maximum height of the AC/DC convertor. This is... If I want to get all this stuff on one pcb. 

     

    If I can't find a suitable AC/DC converter there is always the option of using a seperate unit that connects to the replacement pcb with the DC/DC converters on it. I just like the idea of having a one in all solution. Keeps it neat. 

     

    Suggestions for improvement are most welcome 🙂

     

    Edit: Fuse was moved to L. 

    Intv-uni-psu.png

     

    Intv-uni-psu-brd.png

    • Like 2

  14. Posted

    Years later...

     

    I decided I am going to give this a shot. I'll breadboard the needed dc/dc convertors. I will use an old laptop psu to try things out, but eventually I'd like a drop in pcb with an 18V power module and all the other components on it. It will have to wait a couple of weeks to get this started since I'm doing a new rgb mod first :-)

     

    Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-N960F met Tapatalk

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  15. Posted

    I'm fine with an initial vga release, even though I am mainly in this for a digital output on my colecovision. Currently running Coleco with an F18a to a scart switcher using a sync combiner but my poor switcher is full so I could use the space...

  16. Posted

    For Lynx 1 I made this solution now...

    Desoldered most of the original power circuit. It uses a 10000 mAh Lipo that charges through usb. The usb port is situated where the dc connector used to be. On/off switch works. Lynx also powers down according to atari's timer. Just a proof of concept for now since some minor tweaks are still needed. 1a15f64d2b4ec7164205efdd19bf7ced.jpg019fc7981e3079b6eba85b9a88dd4ac4.jpg

    • Like 3

  18. Posted

    Maybe to clarify a bit... I am trying to build a mod to replace the power circuit with a usb charging LiPo. In the topic "the perfect lynx" I saw that someone managed to do this with an Adafruit powerboost 1000c and an ltc 2950, utilising the inverter present on the lynx. My board has all of this present. It's kind of in qsb form. You have to strip the original power circuit and my design fits on top of that. The microusb connector fits exactely through the opening of the original power connector. 4 leads are used to secure the mod to the motherboard. I added a 10000 mAh LiPo which fits exactely in the space where the batteries were. (Did have to dremel out a piece though.)

     

    The original ON button is used to switch the console on and off.

     

    Poweron and AC connected function as they should, meaning the console will still auto shutdown when off the power the save battery.

     

    It also features 2 optional pads to connect the mcwill mod to. Wires can really be kept to a minimum.

     

    Here's the board. I'll post pictures as soon as I have the pcb in and populated.

    I have a test version installed at the moment which functions perfect. The only thing I need to know is info on the location of some of the critical holes on different revisions. If I'm lucky they are all in thesame location and Atari kept the power circuit identical, but before I have that info I can't be sure, hence the topic ;-)

     

     

    72ac04f4-7907-4163-8d0d-a35b09f4ce65-1-0

    • Like 2

  19. Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    Simple question. For a mod I'm developing I am looking for pictures of the different revisions of motherboards in the Lynx 1 units. Mine says it's a Rev B 2 motherboard. How many are out there?

     

    Perticularly the power section of the board is of interest to me.

     

    If anybody could help me out with some pictures or links that would be greatly appreciated :-D

     

    Cheerz!

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    I'm in the process of designing an all in one board for this mod. Using the schematics of the powerboost 1000c I was wondering if I could ditch the whole usb output side and stick to 5.0V and GND only?

     

    I know the usb output uses some resistors on its D- and D+ connections but isn't this only of importance when connecting a usb device to it like a tablet or a phone? I'd like to strip as much away as possible from the original powerboost board to keep it small in size and to make space for an LTC2950 and an inverter.

  21. Posted

    Topic says it all.

     

    I thought to ask here first before delving into it myself. I know about the C41 trick and have tried to solder a usb cable to that capacitor. Works fine ofcourse, but I'd like to use the original buttons to switch on/off the console while only using 5V. (Ideally a mini usb port where the power socket now is would be fantastic.)

     

    Is this possible?

  22. Posted

    Allright... I finally did the install (thought I had all parts covered but I forgot the jst terminal connector). It has been running for hours and the only thing I notice is some heat on the top of the case towards the power button. It's not excessive so I'm hoping this is normal. Until now... pretty happy with the result. On to a decent rgb mod now :-)

  23. Posted

    Yes I saw that typo. Datasheet rates it as 16V CT (centre tapped). It will still be AC voltage until it exits the bridge rectifier. Attach everything as normal.

     

    Good luck with the install. Any questions, feel free to post or PM me.

    Fantastic. This makes me realise why forums like this are so valuable. Thanks again! I'll report back next week when the install is done!

  24. Posted · Edited by Unstablewarpfield

    I ordered it! They ship for free and it arrives here on wednesday. Not bad for an order from the US to EU...

     

    As I see now... this transformer does state 16VDC as output... I don't really know if I should route DC through C4, C3 and L1 to the rectifier (can it hurt?) or if I should just bypass that. Easiest option is to leave everything as it is.

     

    Edit: I just see the specs certify it as 16V CT, while mousers says 16VDC CT... We'll see I guess :P

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