Japanese FZ-1: Turn 110V into 230V

[Japanese FZ-1: Turn 110V into 230V]

Sounds about right. The FZ-1 PSU is integrated into the main PCB and is fairly generic. The only main difference is the transformer (and a common ground connection in NTSC models). Some models have fans and some don't, the connections are still there to add a fan. I have a PAL FZ-1 which has a 230V transformer and outputs ~16VAC. This is fed to a bridge rectifier and corresponding 9V and 5V regulators which can between 10V and 30V. The service manual shows an expected 20VP-P on the transformer output but my DMM only shows 16VAC. This transformer looks like a possible candidate https://eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Triad-Magnetics/VPS20-2200?qs=1a1zv8L%252Bh%2F2tr%252BOTTBfGVQ==

 

Just be sure to research as much as possible on power supply electronics, this is mains voltages and things can easily get toasty with wrong application.

Thanks a lot for this!

 

I tried finding a transformer that has an output a bit closer to what specs say (15VAC) and I hit a bit of a wall here. The 3do states 30W on the bottom, and I'm not quite certain how many VA to go for. I'm assuming up from that number, so I tried looking around the 35-45VA with a 230VAC input and a 15VAC output. The thing is... I seem to find models with either 20 VA or 50 VA. The 20VA models would all fit really nicely as they have the correct dimensions. I am just worried that they will not have the power requirements needed? When I bump it up to 50VA the dimensions are not correct and the transformer would not fit.

 

Any advice what would be safe to use as a transformer capacity?

[Japanese FZ-1: Turn 110V into 230V]

Thanks for replying. Soldering is not a big deal, I've modded many consoles so far. I just don't know enough about power supplies... What I do know is that it has a separate step down transformer that outputs 15V AC. Here is a link to the schematics of the power supply.

 

http://atariage.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach§ion=attach&attach_id=524629

 

These 15V AC are taken into a circuit to output 5V and 9V DC. Seems to me that as long as I feed 15V AC into that circuit I should be fine? I have found some transformers that can do this, although I am not certain if 50Hz/60Hz will be a problem. When I receive the console I'd have to measure a bit to see if one of them physically fits but before that I want to be very sure that what I'm trying won't damage the console in any way...

[Japanese FZ-1: Turn 110V into 230V]

Hey guys,

 

I have my eye on a Japanese FZ-1 system. I'd be able to get it for quite a good price, but before I purchase I would like to know if it is possible to avoid an external step down convertor (I'm European) by replacing the build in 110V/60Hz to 15V AC step down transformer with one that follows the specs for my location. Something like a 30VA 230V/50-60Hz to 15V transformer? Or am I thinking to easy about this?

 

Anyone know of an example where someone has made this work?

 

Thanks!

[Got F18A installed some games don't work/black screen]

I have looping not working on my PAL coleco. I believe when I hit a fire button it freezes on me. Smurf and donkey kong are giving me random trouble (not starting or freezing being the most common one). I'd love to try and update my f18. Have a jtag cable ready here.

[New Coleco RGB board?]

Anyone tried the PAL version of this mod yet?

[Got F18A installed some games don't work/black screen]

I don't think there will be a solution Mika, considering the last thing we heared is from over a year ago. I guess that's life though.

Then again, I can't seem to find our problem under the "known quirks" section on matthews website which potentially could mean that people with a PAL system will be buying the F18A while being unaware of this issue, which is not very nice in my eyes since it is not a cheap mod. Add to that also import fees and taxes and you are looking at a 100 euro upgrade that probably does not work with some games.

 

I am now hoping that the PAL version of citrus3000psi mod will work. Time will tell...

[SECAM intelli RGB]

What is the crystal frequency on that PCB? Its the grey looking can next to R9 and R10.

It's a 4.000 Mhz crystal.

[Honey I Blew Up the CD32 Prices]

I also saw an increase in price here in the Netherlands. I got mine boxed complete with 6 games for 100 euro's. I thought that was a good deal, especially since I see the boxed console alone going up to 300 euro's now...

[Amiga CD32 RGB expansion board]

For now I wired everything directly and the image seems fine. Got myself a big beefy individually shielded scart cable. I might add some 75 ohms resistors on the rgb lines and see what that does. I could make future revisions and add the resistors on the board. Also VGA is a possibility :-)

[Amiga CD32 RGB expansion board]

For a while now I wanted to get RGB out of my Amiga CD32 to play it a bit more since I can connect it easier through my Framemeister that way. I chose not to do an internal mod, but make an expansion card for the expansion slot on the back of the console. I soldered up the long connector today and had a testrun. Beautiful RGB... Simon the Sorcerer... here we come!

 

[SECAM intelli RGB]

This Intellivision came in a model one case. It is defenately a French model, but without scart. It just has RF. I noticed it looks like an inty 2 on the inside but not exactely. It also is not exactely thesame version as on that website since that one has a seperate psu board. On mine the large capacitors are on the mainboard and there is no seperate pcb for them. Just the transformer feeding directly into the main board.

 

I have found some clues to composite mod it, but I'd rather have rgb. Is there a chance that the 4 signals I mentioned could be the rgbs traces?

[SECAM intelli RGB]

Hey people,

 

I have here (what I think) is a Secam intellivision (model 5156). It was obtained from France and I wanted to mod it to output RGB. I did this once on my pal system and it works fantastic. That said... that pal system contained an LM1886N which I could use to tap into the rgb and sync lines. Not so with this one however...

 

Here is a picture of what I see.

U4 is in the red circle (YA-3-8900)

U10 is in the blu circle (N82S147N)

U14 is in the yellow circle (74LS273N

 

oh... me thinks... I just have a look around U10, which is what my pal used as a video decoder and I'll pull a similar trick on that IC. Unfortunately the datasheet tells me nothing of which is what. All I managed to discover is that there are 4 traces coming out of U4 running to U10. From that point on, 4 traces also leave U10 and get to U14. From U14 those 4 traces combine into one through some resistors and run into the RF box. I guess the big question is... what are those 4 traces? I guess I could not be so lucky for them to just be RGB and sync and pul them off of one of those IC's could I?

 

Anyone got a clue?

 

[Thoughts about this possible alternative internal colecovision PSU]

The power supply I used is a Meanwell RS-15. I installed the F18a board so I don't require -5V anymore. If you don't put an F18 board in you could get one of the Meanwell powersupplies that delivers -5V, 5V and 12V. It takes anything from 100 to 240V input. I plan on making something like it for my Intellivision but the voltages on that one are a bit more difficult to obtain.

[Thoughts about this possible alternative internal colecovision PSU]

Here is my album of how I modded my CV. Might be something useful for you in there.

[Intellivision RGB mod trouble]

If you have any bridges like I had... it will help to carefuly check your soldering work again. In the end I ended up having some pcb's made and haven't looked back since. Much better than etching my own boards.

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Same here. I'd love to get rid of that old and bulky transformer. Just not sure if the described method here would give the -2.1V. For a small cost I gave both my coleco and videopac internal psu's. Making it a mission to do thesame with my atari 2600/7800 and thought to redo my inty as well. If anybody has some info to share that would be awesome :-)

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Ooooowwww haha. Was THAT it

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

If a moderator could edit this a bit that would be nice... my connection went haywire causing the spam....

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Would something like this work? I noticed my intellivision runs pretty hot and was wondering if an alternative (more modern) powersupply would reduce heat produced.

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Would something like this work? I noticed my intellivision runs pretty hot and was wondering if an alternative (more modern) powersupply would reduce heat produced.

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Would something like this work? I noticed my intellivision runs pretty hot and was wondering if an alternative (more modern) powersupply would reduce heat produced.

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Would something like this work? I noticed my intellivision runs pretty hot and was wondering if an alternative (more modern) powersupply would reduce heat produced.

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Would something like this work? I noticed my intellivision runs pretty hot and was wondering if an alternative (more modern) powersupply would reduce heat produced.

[How about replacement power supply for Intellivision 1, 3, Tandy, and Sears]

Would something like this work? I noticed my intellivision runs pretty hot and was wondering if an alternative (more modern) powersupply would reduce heat produced.

[Intellivision RGB mod trouble]

One last post in this topic. There was still some audible noise in the sound when I did this mod. Also some video noise was present. I know this mod is supposed to give a better result so in the end I decided to have a batch of pcb boards made. Installed them yesterday and the image quality is even better then with my home-etched pcb! I run this mod through an xrgb mini and have perfect video and audio quality from my Intellivision now. Happy!