Unstablewarpfield

Clear. Thanks! I currently do not own an EM1 but this will be a future purchase so I'll go with the 5V and 12V option.

I'm about to install the F18A mod in my Colecovision, together with an internal power supply. Is it true that the -5V line is not needed anymore after installing the mod? If so... would something like this work as a power supply? It has all the right specs amp-wise on the 5V and 12V lines... Good price too and pretty easy to obtain from where I live. I ordered one from thesame line (but 5V only) for my Videopac and it works perfect :-)

Thanks Grips. I just took a look. I am not seeing the dots you describe there in your post. (playing through an xrgb mini on a samsung led tv... dunno if that has anything to do with it.) What I see is clearly linked to the sound. As soon as certain sounds pop up the edges of the pixels get a bit "wave-like" for a split second. It is not very noticable and like this it is defenately very playable. I know that my scart cable is really bad. (as in... unshielded) I might wire my din plug like my neo geo so that I can use that cable. Either that, or seperate sound RCA's.

Finally received my pcb design from China last weekend! So much better then my own etched board!!! Really impressed for the 10 euro's it cost me. Had to wait a couple of days for the components to arrive and soldered everything together. I kept getting some weird interference which i traced back to the two blank signals. I left the signal from leg 34 on the 8048 completely off and connected leg 9 of the pal encoder to the corresponding pad on my board and voila... it worked. Basically what you said in your topic grips03... Everything connects to the palencoder chip, with exception of the audio ofcourse. I do get some slight interference in the video signal that seems to be connected to the sounds playing, so I guess a seperate audio connection, or a better shielded cable is what I need. For now... I enjoy the awsome video quality that my G7000 now offers!

Thanks grips03! I'll go with that. So far, this is what I came up with in Eagle. Like with my Intellivision mod... No experience whatsoever in creating pcb's so I guess I am violating many rules again. We'll see what it does...

Hi! I was in doubt whether to ask my question in this topic or to create my own. Since mine is PAL related I decided to go with a seperate topic. I used the schematics in previously mentioned topic to create my own version of them for a PAL system. It's basically a copy and I don't think the differ very much but I am in doubt whether the inputs are connected correctly. I used these PAL schematics to figure out the connections. What do you guys think... did I get the inputs right?

And to close this down... Some last pictures of the final result. The audio still has quite some noise in it, but I think this is due to the use of unshielded cables. Since I have two neo geo scart cables that are virtually noise free I will wire it up to accept the neo geo scart cable and I hope it will improve things even more. Now... onto the Videopac

And... also here it appears I was a bit too hasty in asking for advice... I reduced the sharpness of my tv from 50 to about 15. That took care of the outlines. I will arrange sharpness through the xrgb mini if needed. Still need to connect the audio and I think we can call it a day on this one

Bingo! I review my soldering work again and there was an extremely small blob of solder that caused a bridge between two inputs. Now the colors are working like they should :-) There is however a minor effect visible that I have also seen from time to time in several other consoles I modded. As an example I took a picture of this number in SNAFU. The picture does not show it very clear, but the blue number has a white-ish border around it, following the contours of the number. Could this be a sync related issue? It might be worth mentioning that I measure my CSYNC voltage a bit over 4V. Might it be bad shielding in a cable? I connect the console through an xrgb mini framemeister to a samsung LED tv. Any help is appreciated :-)

Just received the new LM1886N chip. Fast shipping! Anyways, I checked the image and it was super noisy. When I reinstalled the RF shielding the colors were displayed normally on RF output. This means that either the RGB mod schematics are faulty (which I doubt) or there is a short somewhere on my pcb I guess. The story continues. I might try that trick with the parallel resistors 5-11under. If anyone has any other ideas I'll be glad to hear them.