Unstablewarpfield

That thought has occurred to me mr_me. The thing is... being inexperienced as I am... The LM1886N got damaged while extracting it. I have ordered a new one and will be able to test that out somewhere this week when it comes in. I'll get back to you as soon as I know more. Thanks for thinking along with me :-)

I guess this is the IC you mean? At least... that is what I pulled out. The LM1886N. This is the only PAL schematics I have found so far. Unfortunately the resolution is quite small and it is hard to make out the details.

The PCB I designed is this. Keep in mind that this is me doodling around in Eagle. I have never tried something like this before, and probably violated many rules of laying out a board like this, but I do know that the circuit works, since I tested it out on the bread board and colors were as they should be. The piece of ground in the middle along the central powerline (near R9, R11 and R12) is connected through a single wire to the larger copper fill on the board, which acts as GND. According to the schematics here, is pin 15 connected to the clock? I have read (I believe on this forum somewhere) that this schematic contains errors in it. Also, whenever I search for the U10 IC I can find the data for the LM1886N, or for the AY-3-8915. Are they thesame?

Thanks for the reply :-) The third bar is indeed what I ment in my OP. I said second, but it is indeed the third bar. The second is not supposed to be orange either and something tells me that as soon as the light green color pops on it will change the colors of the second and third bar, as well as the background. My knowledge about electronics and how logic gates work all together is limited so I am diving into the matter as we speak. I checked all connections and continuity on the MOD pcb and on the main board. Everything seems fine. No shorts either. It can't be a coincidence that the green output is a bit high, and that a light green color appears to be missing. I wish I knew more about the way these three green signals work so I can narrow down the problem.

Just took a picture of what the image looks like now. The photo makes the blue and red look a bit odd. In reality they look fine. The sharpness is epic, but as you can see, the colors are off...

Hi all, Lately I have been fiddling around with an Intellivision RGB mod. I have a PAL unit and decided to go with these schematics http://www.nightfallcrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/intyrgb.png I build a test version on a breadboard and it worked flawless. I then proceeded to make a pcb board for this mod. This is when the trouble started... I chose to remove the LM1886N color IC from the intellivision main board and installed a socket so I can easilly reverse back to the original. When I measure my voltages on the rgb lines coming out of the mod it shows me 0.63V for both red and blue. On the green line I measure 0.87V, which is a little high I believe. I went on to see where this high signal came from, and I found that all of the signals coming into the 74hct244 IC are about 0.24V. All of them, except the signal coming from pin 15 on the socket where the original LM1886N used to be. That gives me 2.91V. This means that one of the signals for green (according to the schematics) being fed into my 74hct244 is much higher then every other signal. When I test the mod it gives me a pretty sharp image, but on the boot screen (can I call it like that?) the second square block which is supposed to be yellow-ish displays as black. The screen itself also seems a bit too green. My question to some of the intellivision wizzards on here... what are the normal voltages coming off of those pins on the LM1886N? Is it normal to have such a high value on one of the three pins for green? It has been bugging me for a while now and I would like to close up on this mod and move on to my videopac g7000, but not before my inty works properly! Hope someone can give me a clue... Cheerz!

Ok... long time no reaction and everything has been on hold a bit since I bought a new house. But... finally I have space now to create my gameroom with a new Samsung tv and a Framemeister xrgb mini. When I fired up my Atari through the Framemeister's svideo port low and behold... perfect s-video signal! Problem solved. Next up... getting a second boxed 2600 and rgb mod it.

I tested about everything I could test now on this problem and still it persists. Connected the Atari to an old CRT tv and it also gave me the color problem. It's like it's shifted out of phase for some reason. Composite image is fine. I'm about to give up on this mod. Guess I'll be just using the composite video part of it then.

Allright... My other tv is an LG 55LE5500. It supports RGB over scart, but as far as I see no s-video. This would explain why the colors don't look right. Now only find an old crt to see what happens when I try that. Fingers crossed it will work...

Again... thanks for the input. Really appreciate it. I am currently away from home, so unable to verify both my tv's. One of them I do know by head which model it is and I already figured out that it actually doesn't support s-video. Whether this means it doesn't support s-video over scart I don't know.This was the tv I took the pictures from in my post above. I might try my 2600 on an old CRT to see what that does. If all else fails I'll stick to composite a bit until I have an xrgb framemeister. I believe this would take in s-video, as well as all the other consoles I have.

Thanks for the reply alex_79. Before your reply I already tried bending pin 9 from the TIA, since that has the colour signal as far as I saw from the pinouts. It didn't help much. I tried this on two tv's (both LG, different models though) and they both give me thesame result. What I did notice is when I connect both s-video and composite, the image improves. With a bit of tweaking on the colour wheel I managed to get a bit of a better image but by no means perfect. I will see if my tv supports S-video through scart. To be fair I haven't checked that yet. The weird thing is that in black and white the image is picture perfect.

Thanks for the reply alex_79. Before your reply I already tried bending pin 9 from the TIA, since that has the colour signal as far as I saw from the pinouts. It didn't help much. I tried this on two tv's (both LG, different models though) and they both give me thesame result. What I did notice is when I connect both s-video and composite, the image improves. With a bit of tweaking on the colour wheel I managed to get a bit of a better image but by no means perfect. I will see if my tv supports S-video through scart. To be fair I haven't checked that yet. The weird thing is that in black and white the image is picture perfect.

In the mean time I lifted the pins on the TIA. Not much difference. I did how discover that the image got a bit better when I connected both the s-video and the composite kabel. No idea why, but I am playing like that now. If anyone has any ideas they are welcome.

I tried to get this to work on my atari 2600 PAL 4 switch and it is giving me some problems. The comp image is working fine and with a bit of tweaking I can get the colors right, however... I tried this mod for the s-video! When I connect it to s-video it gives me these weird "ghost colors" that I can't get rid of, no matter how I try by turning the adjustment pot meter on the main board. When I turn it as far as black and white there is no ghosting at all. I connected everything according to the guide on the electronic sentimentalities website, except for the legs of the IC. That was done as described in post 86 of this thread and I did not lift them. In stead I soldered everything to the backside of the pcb. Might this be the problem? I will attach some pictures. Hopefully some wizards on the forum here might recognize this and will be able to help me out. I tested this on a an lcd tv with a scart connector. Any ideas? Cheers! image upload no compression free image upload

I'm about to do the BAtari mod to my PAL 4 switcher here. So as far as I got it... It will not be needed to bend the legs of the TIA and I can just solder the wires to the solderpoints of the TIA in the atari PCB? If not... What is the reasoning behind the tutorials bending them anyway? Would be great of I could do without that since I'm afraid to damage things... Hope someone can verify this. Thanks!