fisher

Sorry for the huge delay. 😅 I finally made a repro of the unmodified original game and it has the same problem. I guess you already have that figure out, thanks! @Rom Hunter The Keystone Kapers on this cartridge has the normal Activision logo on it. Any chances to fix the bug without changing the TIA? I'll try the switch positions that are talked about on that thread, but looks like I'll have a little problem, since my Atari 2600 is the one made by Polyvox that originally doesn't have the Color / B&W switch. But I think I can try on the other Atari or do a small jumper on the PCB.

Unfortunatelly I don't have an original to test. I'll try to write the original in another EPROM and see what happens.

I did a combination of diff with hexdump remotelly on my PC from my phone and figured this: - 0x01AC on the original is B1, the pirate is F1; - From 0x0D80 to 0x0DFF there are many changes, probably the logo graphics, and - 0xFF0 is AA on the original and 00 on the pirate. I'm attaching a screencap of the mess: Can any of these edits be related to the bug?

Oops. I didn't noticed that. Probably who edited the logo messed with something else. I'll try to compare the files to see if I can find something, but since my assembly knowledge is next to zero I'll need help.

Hi. I just got an old 2 in 1 cartridge that has Keystone Kapers and Planet Patrol on it. Keystone Kapers seems to be running fine however, I'm getting bugs on Planet Patrol. The bug happens after passing the debris, the ship becomes a diagonal line, as the truck that comes to refuel it. I dumped the ROM and this doesn't happen on Stella 6.7. I also tested it on another 2600 with the same results. I've got some (bad) images. The 1st one shows the initial screen. It's obviously an edited ROM. This one shows the bug happening. It also happens with the refueling truck. I also did a (bad) video, that's where these images come from: 2023-04-29 17-25-56.mkv Any ideas of what can be happening and how can I possibly fix it? Thanks in advance. unksat2.bin

Well... sorry to answer to a really old thread, but I just want to help clarify some points: Most PAL-M stuff is really easy to modify to NTSC. Normally, there's an IC before the RF and the composite video output that is responsible to encode the console's video output to composite then throw this signal on the composite and RF outputs. Just get this IC's name and ask in the forum or Google it. You'll sure find many ways to make it work in NTSC. The exception for this rule are some consoles like Atari 2600 and NES. The first outputs video in chroma and luma and the later straight to composite video. On the Brazilian's Atari 2600 you need to exchange the crystal, add a capacitor and remove a circuit. On the NES you need to exchange the crystal and the PPU. TecToy's stuff usually only needs to add a color subcarrier crystal (3.579545 Mhz for NTSC) on the encoder IC or change the main clock circuit to correct this frequency (on PAL-M it's 3.575611 Mhz). For this, divide the main crystal's frequency by the PAL-M color subcarrier and them multiply what you get by the NTSC one. If TecToy's really smart, they'll add an option to change the new console's color system on some menu.

Thanks!! The image is slightly better now. I changed the cable, now it's a piece of a satellite receiver coax. A little tight fit, but it's working fine. I still have some wavy lines on TV, but the differences of before and after are just like comparing day and night!!

It's by RF. I'll try to find a better cable for it. I'll also look for some homebrew ferrite beads, any suggestion for a good and easy way to do it? 75Ω cable from antenna (RG6) don't seem to fit, but it's what I have laying around. Maybe I should do a composite video mod to it, but I just don't want to do any holes on the case. So the missing sielding should not be the responsivle for that, interesting.

Hi, I just got an old Atari 2600 V16 board fixed :-) Although it plays fine, it has a lot of artifacts on screen. I think it may be interference generated by it's circuits, since it has no shielding on the processor part. Would be possible to rebuild the missing shielding? How could it be done? Would this make some big difference? Thanks in advance.

Hey Soviet!! Any chances that you have the schematics for that monitor? If positive, can you please share? I have one monitor just like this white one on the pics! It's sitting here, without any use because some components have their identification erased!! The schematics would help me a lot to fix this!! Please, if you have it or know where I can find, tell me. I'll be very happy if I can fix this stuff!!! Thanks in advance!!