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Everything posted by fisher
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Best way to convert PAL M to NTSC?
fisher replied to StoneAgeGamer's topic in Classic Console Discussion
Well... sorry to answer to a really old thread, but I just want to help clarify some points: Most PAL-M stuff is really easy to modify to NTSC. Normally, there's an IC before the RF and the composite video output that is responsible to encode the console's video output to composite then throw this signal on the composite and RF outputs. Just get this IC's name and ask in the forum or Google it. You'll sure find many ways to make it work in NTSC. The exception for this rule are some consoles like Atari 2600 and NES. The first outputs video in chroma and luma and the later straight to composite video. On the Brazilian's Atari 2600 you need to exchange the crystal, add a capacitor and remove a circuit. On the NES you need to exchange the crystal and the PPU. TecToy's stuff usually only needs to add a color subcarrier crystal (3.579545 Mhz for NTSC) on the encoder IC or change the main clock circuit to correct this frequency (on PAL-M it's 3.575611 Mhz). For this, divide the main crystal's frequency by the PAL-M color subcarrier and them multiply what you get by the NTSC one. If TecToy's really smart, they'll add an option to change the new console's color system on some menu. -
Thanks!! The image is slightly better now. I changed the cable, now it's a piece of a satellite receiver coax. A little tight fit, but it's working fine. I still have some wavy lines on TV, but the differences of before and after are just like comparing day and night!!
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It's by RF. I'll try to find a better cable for it. I'll also look for some homebrew ferrite beads, any suggestion for a good and easy way to do it? 75Ω cable from antenna (RG6) don't seem to fit, but it's what I have laying around. Maybe I should do a composite video mod to it, but I just don't want to do any holes on the case. So the missing sielding should not be the responsivle for that, interesting.
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Hi, I just got an old Atari 2600 V16 board fixed :-) Although it plays fine, it has a lot of artifacts on screen. I think it may be interference generated by it's circuits, since it has no shielding on the processor part. Would be possible to rebuild the missing shielding? How could it be done? Would this make some big difference? Thanks in advance.
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Hey Soviet!! Any chances that you have the schematics for that monitor? If positive, can you please share? I have one monitor just like this white one on the pics! It's sitting here, without any use because some components have their identification erased!! The schematics would help me a lot to fix this!! Please, if you have it or know where I can find, tell me. I'll be very happy if I can fix this stuff!!! Thanks in advance!!
