Jump to content

geneb

Members
  • Content Count

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

33 Excellent

About geneb

  • Rank
    Space Invader

Recent Profile Visitors

291 profile views
  1. So treat it like it was a Mac. Got it. You're welcome! g.
  2. So leaving it stuffed under a table running a BBS would be a bad thing? 🤣 g.
  3. Here's a video that shows the process. I didn't know until today that it appears that not only did the 1400XL use the same keyboard as the 1200XL, but it looks like the same case too. g.
  4. I was shocked too! I had no idea it would do that. During the editing process, it dawned on me that the funny honking sound was the voice chip being initialized when the machine is first powered on. g.
  5. That's what I did after peeling the Mylar. It went from only the top row to working, to about 95% of the keys working. The rest were brought back to life with repeated key presses. The return key took the most work and the equals key is the lone holdout. Hopefully the heat-shrink spacer ring trick will solve the issue. I'm going to have to make myself a little jig for cutting the spacers. g.
  6. The keyboard mylar is 100% working, so I won't need to replace it. I even managed to peel it without tearing the silicone layer. I was very careful with it and only stripped it back to the connector, but not the connector itself. I used a document clip and a popcicle stick to prevent accidentally "over-peeling" it. A commenter on my video has likely provided a solution to the problem. They suggested putting 2mm wide rings of 2.5mm heat shrink tubing under the back side of the little rubber hammers on each key. This should provide enough lift to allow the little hammer to properly press on the Mylar with enough force to reliably activate the key press. g.
  7. Anyone have a 1200XL keyboard for sale? g.
  8. Well some nutter just paid $9589 for a keyboard on eBay, so.... (and if the person that bought that keyboard is reading this and it's NOT going to be reunited with the machine it was designed for, it's my fervent hope that you come to a very bad, painful, and lingering, end.) g.
  9. Thanks! I LOVE using waxed lacing cord. It makes for a much better wiring harness IMO. I'm pretty sure I've got enough if various widths that it will last me until the heat death of the universe. g.
  10. "Yes". Also Eagle Owner. See https://www.f15sim.com I've found that maintainers are a lot more fun to talk to than the pilots. g.
  11. Probably the best advice in the whole thread, although I appreciate all the things you folks have told me. g.
  12. It's going to boil down to selling it keeping it in my collection. I never started out being interested in Atari stuff, but now I find myself with a lot of it. I think right now I'm at 3 Atari 400's, 2 or 3 800's, a PAL 800XL, a NIB 600XL, a boxed 65XE and a boxed XEGS. Plus I think there's probably four 1050 drives and I think I recall seeing an 810. I've also got what I've been told is an un-released version of De Re Atari. The person that I got all this stuff from did 8 bit game development and also worked at Atari Coin-Op. I sourced a three rail power supply and the right DIN connector, so if nothing else I'll know if the machine works or not. g.
  13. Ooof. Thanks for the info. Now I'm not sure what I'm going to do with it. I should probably procure a power supply for it and see if it works. g.
  14. Along with the 7800 I posted about earlier, I've also got a 1400XL that I'm trying to value. I have no clue what it's worth, but from past discussions I've seen, it's somewhere between "a lot" and "I'll trade you my first born for it". I'd like to get an idea a bit more concrete than that. Photos: Thanks all! g.
  15. I've got what I've been told is an Atari 7800 prototype board. From photos I've seen of production boards, it appears to be a 7800 of *some kind*. I'm looking to put a reasonable value on this thing as I've no clue what it's worth. Photos: Unit with RF shield in place: Board: Thanks folks. g.
×
×
  • Create New...