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iggytheroach

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About iggytheroach

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    Space Invader
  1. After more testing, it seems to be that part of the issue was the "Genesis" I was using. Generally to do a quick test of a cartridge when I get it I use the AT games console. It's small easy to grab and quick to set up given my game room. It also may have some issues with the saves on phantasy star 2.. because once I hauled out the model 1 for further testing, all the weirdness stopped. Save files seem normal again, put the new battery back in, and preliminary results are good.
  2. I had come across that as a possible solution based off something else, sadly I get the same message without the battery, and it has some vestige of the old save even without the battery, which, given my reasonably limited knowledge on this, makes very little sense. Will continue testing and come back with further results.
  3. So after scouring Google for a bit and finding little to no help, I figured I would pitch an effort to the bright people here. I bought a copy of phantasy star 2 online and upon arrival I found that the save files could not be manipulated. Erasing didn't work, writing new in an open slot didn't work, overwriting another slot wouldn't take either. So I figure it's the battery. Simple enough, two solder points, I'm not brilliant with soldering yet, but hey, 2 points I can make work. So I solder in the new battery...... And now the save files not only can't be manipulated, they're corrupted as well, probably from the lack of power while I swapped batteries. Is there a way to factory default the cartridge? Clear out everything? Maybe the battery is just screwy? Any suggestions?
  4. the snes one was what really caught my eye, under normal circumstances the controller would have used its own pcb board right? and it looks like you hacked one together with the breadboard, and a v520 im guessing also that the lighted buttons are tied to the +5v and the ground to complete that circut? its really really gorgeous work overall.
  5. yeah i had that decoupage type idea in my head from the begining, i just didn't know what stickers would make it till i got into it. the two missing stickers are a space invader, placed for ling ling to attack it, and an atari coin slot sticker, cause i have to have an atari one on there. i always liked your D-pad controller, and LBC's pong styled ones are gorgeous. this seems to fit in a little better with my personal aging punk rocker asthetic. i came so close to doing it only with band stickers from the first waves of punk and hardcore between '77 and about '82 or so (given the timing of the vcs, and asthetic i was going for i thought it was appropriate) , but i didnt have too many stickers from that era around wihtout going on an ebay spree.
  6. alright this one is gonna be a small flood since its a bit unique from all angles. its still missing 2 stickers from its final product, but i figured it was finished enough to display here, especially with all the help you guys have been. everything was done with a bag of old band and cartoon stickers, and an exacto knife for precision layering.
  7. fixed. hopefully this helps others, but here's where the issue was. my grounds were connected to common, not NO on each button, both of the runs from pin 6 go to common on L and R respectively, meanwhile pins 5,8, and 9 all go to the NO pin on your microswitch. which means i had some confusion in reading the finer details of the pinout/wiring diagram. so mostly user error on my end. however, since i was already switching my grounds off of common on the buttons, i made sure to do it on the joystick microswitches as well. but the 2 runs off pin 6 were the culprit. no diodes needed in the end product. which could mean that LBC, the weird auto engage behavior you were having was tied to the same issue i was having. maybe its worth a check out, as really it was xevious that was the cart that tipped me off that something wasn't working right. just a thought. i'll post one more major post after i get the asthetics right on this joystick. is there already a diy joystick gallery on the forums somewhere?
  8. i just wish i knew where they were connected that you guys don't have them hooked. and honestly you all do some wonderful looking work, all the diy controllers look wonderful, when i finally get mine looking the way i want it too ill make sure to upload a few pics for you all to see... in the meantime heres the closest i got to a diagram that shows whats going on granted it looks like a half assed laser light show but... all the ground connections are running to the common pin on the microswitches, the one thing this diagram is meant to show and probably fails horribly at, is that whether it be the N O pin of each button or pins 6 or 8, it becomes a junction point for the lines. theres no in line splice, except for where the resistors are in on the grounds for the buttons. could common being ground rather than pin 6 be the source of a lot of the issue i'm having? ill poke at it and update when i can figure it out
  9. trying to be diligent and try everything with this. so i tried your post jack, right down to just soldering up everything directly to the db9 cable, (no breakout in the mix) and still nothing. without diodes i get autofire on both the normally open and normally closed sides of this microswitch. and under normal circumstances i would be willing to say hey its just the microswitch let me swap it out, except theres the generalized thing of it working as it should with the diode in something that only requires one button (joust, 2600 games, etc.) so that proves out the button right? so then the question is what is different here than with your hack, which obviously worked for you, or even LBC's hack which seems to have worked for him. something has to be different. but i have no idea what it is :/ tl;dr: autofire without diodes no matter what i try. no autofire with diodes, but no button presses on 2 button games. tried hardwiring directly, and tried both sides of micro switch. all to no new results. sidenote: whats the possibility the need or not need for a diode traces back to the revision of your 7800? some seem to need them, some not, and we know they did some revision to the board when the expansion port was taken off of it.... i know mine doesn't have the expansion port. and i would guess would be a later production run of the system...
  10. thanks. the diode thing is an odd one for sure. i ordered them as a just in case thing, glad i did because without the diode it goes into an auto fire function. put in hero and everything runs fine but the guy is always firing. like i said ill double check all the wiring from top to bottom, plus i have another breakout board just in case. i have 2 db9 cables and i get the same result with both, which is what lead me to believe the issue was inside the housing.
  11. so heres the 2 pics showing parts of the wire setup, using the breakout board and quick detach mounts its relatively easy to disassemble but the first picture is one of the runs that would be to pin 9 with the diode, unprotected for now in case i have to tinker with it, and pin 8 with the resistor, showing basically both ends of the run. pic 2 is of one of the runs that would be going to pin 6 when it was hooked up. like i said with that, its in its own run so it doesn't interact with the diode at all.
  12. pin 6 has their own line for each button. basically the lines for pin 6 have their own quick disconnect on each button, the ground and 5 share a quick disconnect, and the ground and 9 share a quick disconnect. in the original setup before i started troubleshooting it tonight, pin 6 and 5 shared one and pin 6 and 9 shared one. one run for each button. but the diodes were after the split seeing as how your split point was the pad for the quick disconnect itself. if that makes sense? if not i can supply a few photos. to help you guys visualize the mess ive made here lol
  13. yessir.that diagram was my starting point like i said each of those grounds going to pin 8 with the resistors has their own line up to the pin... the daisy chain of ground from the joystick meets them there. and the diodes are on the line from each button to pins 5 and 9. ive played around with rotating those diodes (which puts the controller back into autofire) and removing them (same result). it did strike me as odd though that the diode method pops up not only in the post that i cited earlier, but also in the conversion guides for sega master system controllers, yet isn't metnioned in that diagram at all, even though the resistors are...
  14. no sir, flipping the difficulty switches makes no difference. you just press the buttons and... nothing.... i lchecked the pinout again for the 5th time tonight... the only thing i havent done is tie pin 7 (which is your 5v +) to anything. but this: http://old.pinouts.ru/Inputs/JoystickAtari7800_pinout.shtmlis the only place i see it mentioned at all. all the other pinouts ive seen list it as 5v+ but unused as well
  15. hey all, new to the forum but have been creeping wtihout being a member for a while now.. a few months ago i bought a 7800 system without any cables or controllers, i had the video, ordering the power was easy enough, but given the general review of the proline controller, i decided to build my own controller from arcade parts. seems to have worked out okay for the most part, the 2600 and 2600 games recognize the controller right off. i used http://atariage.com/forums/topic/219466-diy-7800-arcade-stick-help/this post as a rough guide, including the pinout incorporated therein. the major difference is the base wire i'm using is chopped up cat5e, mostly because its what i had laying around the house. now for the particulars, i have 620 ohm resistors in the ground wires for each of the two buttons, and diodes in the lines running to pins 5 and 9. without the diodes i get a weird auto fire feature mentioned elsewhere in the forums. the ground wire for each button has its own line running to pin 8. as far as i can tell everything is wired "correctly" based against info found elsewhere in the forums. so thats good.... except using xevious as a test cart, i can use my joystick, but not the buttons. like i said running it against seaquest using the 7800... everything works fine. xevious or asteroids for the 7800... get me nothing. interesting side note, joust, robotron, and galaga all seem to work fine from what i can tell any ideas on what went wrong?
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