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HoshiChiri

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Posts posted by HoshiChiri


  1. Assuming that the system is in working order with all nessecary hookups/controllers, I really think I'd be hard pressed to say 'no' to a system. Off the top of my head, I might turn down:

     

    A 5200- I actually had one a couple years ago & sold it. It didn't have the controllers/hookups and I didn't realize it was so expensive to get said bits. I might take one now, but given the size of the unit & the fragile natures of the controllers meaning I'll likely be in the same boat as before in short order... I might pass.

     

    A CDi- once again, it's a big system that would be hard to store, and I've not seen one game for it that looks remotely fun to play. On top of that, the games are somewhat rare & therefore tend to be on the pricey side to boot. I don't want to spend $30-$50 (or more) on a game in the hopes that it might be somewhat enjoyable.

     

    A Hyperscan- I typically avoid licensed games like the plague, and this thing is ALL licensed games.

     

    A Famicom- ok, unlike the others, this one certainly has fun titles I'd like to have and it's not prohibitively big... but considering I could play most of those interesting games on my top loader with an adapter, I'm not sure I'd be willing to deal with the hardwired cables & fiddliness of hooking up old Japanese systems just to use a famicom specifically.

    • Like 1

  2. 3. Gris (Switch)

     

    This game is short, and melancholy, and goddamn beautiful! It's like the gaming equivalent of hitting up a modern art museum for an afternoon, I highly recommend it.

     

    Interesting to me that everything I've finished so far this year is Nintendo digital titles. I've been playing other things, but not things with endings. *shrugs*


  3. Another great deal from Masschamber! Loving the Odyssey 2 bundle I picked up from him. Although I have learned my post office seems to hate his packages, since it got knocked around a bit like the SNES- luckily only the power cable took serious damage, a problem quickly fixed by borrowing my 2600's cord. Still waiting on the postal insurance decision, but it was such a good deal I'm not particularly worried about it. Always a pleasure to deal with masschamber!


  4. Hey! I just picked up an Odyssey 2, but it seems it took a few licks in transit & the AC adapter is dead. I know the unit works, becuase I got it going off of my Atari jr adapter- but since it doesn't run on quite the same specs, I don't really want to keep using it.

     

    Any tips on getting a replacement? It's an older odyssey with removeable controllers and a headphone jack/style AC. According to the plug, it's a 'model AJ 9048-BK01, output 11.5 vac 400 mA, input 115 vac 60 hz 12 W.'

     

    The only standalone plug I can see immediately on ebay is a barrel tip (so no go) from happiestsellerever (so double no-go!). I'm sure I can something else...

     

    As an aside- if anyone's around the Puget Sound Area and wants a nearly-destroyed Odyssey 2 box, I have one up for grabs. It's in such bad shape & I don't keep boxes normally, so it's getting recycled unless someone's actually interested.


  5. If you're looking to another Ebay seller for another go, may I recommend Nihonretro? Tanooki suggested them to me over on the TG-16 thread. I got my RGB/Region modded/refurbed PC Engine Duo-R just a few days ago, and it's a damn fine machine. I don't have the means to test the RGB mod, but the stock composite cable still works (important thing for me with mods), and it's the clearest picture of any of my composite systems. No units currently available, but they seem to get new turbos in every few weeks, so it shouldn't be a long wait.


  6. There's this thing: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPOIt doesn't upscale but it does convert scart to component.

     

    I've come across that one, but it's strictly a video converter- I need to pull the audio too, so it's not really the right one for me.

     

     

    Just some food for thought.

     

    Food for thought indeed- I have been looking over the retrotink. Mostly for curiosity, but I might need to give it a more serious once-over.


  7.  

    You want the best option for 8bit Gameboy truly??

     

    GET THIS: https://bennvenn.myshopify.com/products/backlit-gbc-drop-in-lcd-kit-pre-orders

    (It's $70 now in the first batch, when in full production he said it would be as cheap as one of those chinese AGB-101 panels)

     

    This is a NO SOLDER, NO MOD drop in replacement screen for the GBC. This is like the AGB-101 panels but is made for and designed with the right cable connection for an existing OEM Nintendo Gameboy Color.

     

     

    Ooooooo… *looks at pair of old Game Boy Colors*

     

    Which one of you to mess with?


  8. Well this was clearly designed to look good in pictures and not be at all functional.

     

    Impossible-to-use inputs (those buttons stick out for a reason!), unnecessary screen curve to increase the chance of pressure damage in a pocket or bag, and weird game sticks that will not only be damn near impossible to tell apart, but are somehow a greater choking hazard than a switch cartridge. Not to mention cutting off that corner is going to make it sit oddly in your hands.

     

    You want to improve the original game boy? Give a game boy pocket a backlit LCD and a rechargeable battery. Done.

    • Like 3

  9. Honestly speaking, you really do get what you pay for when it comes to this stuff. An upscaler is ideal, but the cheapest option that supports SCART is still pretty expensive (OSSC).

     

    If your console has been modified to use a Megadrive 2 video port, you might be able to use an HD Retrovision cable (component):

    https://www.hdretrovision.com/genesis

    This won't upscale the image at all, but at least you'll get to benefit from the clarity of RGB/component, and the cables are built from excellent quality components.

     

    Otherwise, it's a bit of a crap shoot to go with random converters/upscalers.

     

    It's been modified to use an 8-pin DIN connector, since that allowed it to retain functionality with the stock cables. I don't believe it's got the booster HDretrovision says is needed for their cables to work on PC Engine.

     

    Here's the link to unit I got if it helps. I took Tanooki's suggestion for an Ebay seller- while I haven't powered the thing on yet (a/v cable comes tomorrow), I'm pretty sure it was the right choice. They even put in a paper with photo instructions on formatting the memory before use to make sure I can save my games. I didn't even think about that, I'm glad they brought it up!


  10. Alright, I did it- I splurged over the weekend (and took advantage of Ebay's bucks offer). I picked up a region modded PC Engine Duo-R. Here's the thing: it's also RGB modded, so it shipped with a scart cable. I have zero scart inputs in my setup. I've got an inbound composite cable coming to make do with (the listing said the original able would still work), but it sure would be nice to use that upgrade.

     

    So... what do you reccomend for turning the scart signal into something I can use? I've blown most of my turbo savings on games, so cost is a concern (no framemeisters!) I have an open HDMI port left on my TV, but I also have a component switchbox that could stand an upgrade. It's got 4 inputs, but only 3 are actually component, the 4th's composite. This would make a good excuse for a new switch.

    • Like 2

  11. Ok, so this is a bit of an odd one... I've been using Gamestop's fix fluid for years with great sucess- it's not gonna make your discs look brand-new, but it deals with minor scratches & fixes skipping discs damn good- and without those terrible marks you get from disc doctors and other home solutions.

     

    Of course, the stuff isn't strong enough for blu-ray discs, so it's gone on clearance and isn't available online anymore. My local stores don't have any in, so I'm hoping one of you might be able to get ahold of some. It's currently $6 in stores, I'll pay you $9 a bottle plus shipping- I'm hoping to get 2 or 3 to keep as backups.

     

    Here's a product link for ease of checking your local inventory: https://www.gamestop.com/accessories/disc-skip-fixer-pack-with-cloths-gs/76125 Let me know if you might be able to find some!


  12. 2. HarmoKnight (3DS)

     

    Impulsive pickup on this one- I'd been poking around the Nintendo site, trying to figure out why they hadn't sent my Piranha Plant code for Smash, & saw I could use platinum coins for 40% off. Very cute, kind of easy, but also frustrating- it doesn't really do a good job of communicating why you missed a note when you miss a note, so you can't really figure out if you're going too fast or too slow. Unless you're actively going for full completion, it's not going to mess you up much though.


  13.  

    You'd have to have children at age 15 for them to be 35 now (kid born in 1984) or be born in 1959 to have a 35yo at age 25 yourself

     

    …...

     

    conclusion: your math is wrong, your logic is fuzzy, your assumptions are whack, but we like you anyway. Just a little less than if you were of Atari age.

     

    To be fair, I was doing said math at 6am after very little sleep- I hope you'll forgive me for ranging in the wrong direction.

     

    I like you all too- let me know if you need any bengay or help crossing the street. :P


  14. On the age thing- if we assume 'being a kid during the 2600's heyday' means being 10 in 1979 (to allow for a little wiggle room around the release date, as well as 'starting age'), and that 25-35 is when you're most likely to be having kids... *does some math*… then your kids would, in fact, be 25-35 now & having their own kids.

     

    Sorry folks, you're old. But don't worry, my Nintendo-era self will be joining you shortly... :woozy:

     

    I think simpler to play games are the key. If my 11 year old wants to actually have to learn about a game to be good, develop skills etc...well he'd rather put his time into Fallout. He's not going to play Goldeneye learning maps and weapon types for hours on end to get competitive. Also..when introducing a kid to a new game...sometimes you gotta be like my grandfather teaching me chess....and just let the kid win once in a while. Maybe MORE than once in a while.

     

    Holy crap YES- being able to properly introduce someone to a new game absolutely means throwing matches. It's terribly discouraging to lose constantly as a beginner, & it's a quick way to make someone assume they'll never be 'good enough' and quit.

     

    Plus, it involves YOU being good enough at the time to intentionally learn to play sub-optimally. I remember teaching kids back in my Yugioh judge days... and sometimes they were so bad, all the throwing away of good cards, careful holding of your hand to disguise how many cards you're not playing, pretending you're not attacking becuase you're setting up a combo, etc. still won't let you throw the game! But you can't just obviously let them win, that's just as discouraging. It's actually kind of hard to discreetly throw a game- probably easier with a videogame, but still.

    • Like 1

  15. Sadly this is indeed a real thing, ridiculous as it is. There's no info about it in the manual because this problem was a bug discovered after the whole run of 250,000 carts, cases, and manuals were produced.

     

     

    Well that's just about the craziest thing I've come across in awhile- you'd think this would be better documented by now!

     

    I hope you can sort something out... man, what an odd thing...


  16. It didn't take long to realize that the cart wasn't saving my initials and records after turning it off, and a little research revealed that when there are no saves on the cart it needs to be first "initialized" by playing one full head-to-head game with the initials XXX then one full head-to-head game with the initials NBA before it will start saving your games. I followed the instructions to the letter, but every time I power off the cart all the saves (including the one for NBA, it never records a save for XXX at all) are gone.

     

    That's the most ridiculous thing I've ever heard, and it's not mentioned in the manual at all- you'd think something as important as 'don't delete these or you'll ruin your cart forever' would be in there. I also can't find anyone else talking about it- the first result on my search is this thread!

     

    I'm with Flo- your save battery is probably dead. Enough juice to blank itself, but not enough to create a new file. I'd get the battery replaced... or if that's not an option, look for a cheap ugly copy with a good battery and board swap.


  17. I always smirk a little when people post looking for 2600 machines... I just have this image in my head of a room full of people chatting, and a new guy walks in: "Hi, um, I was told this was a good place to ask... I'm trying to buy a twenty-six hun-" *everyone in the room pulls out a console*

     

    It's like walking into a cannabis store & asking if anyone knows how to make brownies.

    • Like 3

  18. Another SMB/DH kid here. We got our NES from my uncle for Christmas, despite protests from my mom. She ended up being the first one to hit world 1-3. Kind of panicked a bit ("I don't know what's good and what's bad!") but finished- and we were so excited becuase mom won the game! Then Toad told us the princess was in another castle.

     

    Found out the next day there were 8 castles. It blew our lil' kid minds (I believe I was in Kindergarten?)

     

    No idea what my first arcade machine was- probably Dig Dug/Mr. Do at the video rental store (Genuinely do not remember which one it was!) I also have a strong memory of watching a guy beat Street Fighter 2 with Guile at our local bowling alley. I think it hadn't occurred to me until then that arcade games could have endings- it was kind of surreal.


  19.  

    Unfortunately, he was going to sell these on a shelf and labelled them, so I have my fears of restoring these labels.

     

    Those really shouldn't be too hard to get off- carefully peel up as much of the paper as you can, then gently rub off the remaining adhesive with a soft cloth & lemon furniture polish.

     

    Alternatively, a heat gun might allow you to peel them up entirely.

     

    Alternative-alternatively, you might be able to freeze them off- I was at a game shop the other day, when it was super cold out- the price tags on the carts kept falling off!

    • Like 1

  20. Not really- but not by choice, mind you. It is remarkably difficult to find comfortable nerd t-shirts for me. Either they're designed for tiny Chinese women & would never fit me, or they're cut for men & don't sit correctly.

     

    Even if I could fine them, my job doesn't allow for a lot of t-shirt wearing to begin with. What I'd really like are nice blouses that just happen to be gamey in some way, like all-over prints that, upon closer inspection, are pac-man mazes or rupees. I graviate toward bell-sleeved babydoll tops, which tend to have brocade ribbon accents down the front. If that ribbon was the scarf from Journey I'd go nuts!

    • Like 1

  21. CALL EBAY. CALL EBAY. CALL EBAY.

     

    The 'simple automated' system that prevents you from calling normally is the problem now. The computer checked to see if a thing was delievered. It doesn't check where. I just recently had an auction where the item got sent back to the seller- and was marked 'delivered' to ME by the system when he got it. You NEED to get a human being involved who can read the text and go "oh shit, that ain't your address!"

     

    Please note the text you keep quoting says an appeal MAY include a police report. Not MUST include a police report. You have plenty for an appeal- namely, tracking that shows the item was not delivered to your address. You just need to make sure a human & not an algorithm looks at that.

     

    Take a shot & suck it up. Get an official-sounding friend to call for you if you need to. BUT CALL. Call NOW before you run your 30 day appeal window out & you're really hosed!

    • Like 1

  22. There's some worn parts on the stickers that are showing white... might take a marker or something? What do you guys think.

     

     

    If the un-worn sticker is glossy, go over the white bits with a sharpie (just dot, you don't want to put on too much) and immediately wipe with a tissue, before it dries. You'll rub off the sharpie from the glossy bits so it's only on the white part. It blends well, I've done it for years.

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