HoshiChiri

Yep, pretty much Me & my friends joke about this- some girls buy expensive shoes & handbags to show off. We buy retro gaming crap. (HuCards are a girl's best friend?)

Definitely aware of the region lock on the HuCards, it's a big part of why I want a region modded unit (my Japanese isn't that good, so I'll want the US releases where they exist.) Thanks for the tip on the Ebay seller- I like the idea of going through Ebay rather than a) trying to convince someone on a forum I'm new to that I'm totally not trying to screw them out of a very expensive console, and b) having a large company to complain to if I end up the one screwed. Nice to know a seller who's reliable on there!

https://songofthesouth.org/index.html I think this is where we bought our DVD from, but they've updated their version to a 'remastered' one without extras (make of that what you will.) They've got some video clips up from their version, so you can compare- but really, yours looks pretty darn clean- you've got a good find there!

My package arrived today- the outer paper is torn open, but I'm pretty sure everything is still inside (provided there was nothing flat along the bottom). Now- to not open it until Christmas.... .... I can do this, I can do this...

I've read a bit on the machines, so I have a fair idea of what I'd like- I'm very much a collector, so playing original media on an original machine is important to me. While I typically stick with US releases, my understanding is the whole turbo library opens up a lot if you can play imports. Coupling that with the system issues puts me at wanting a machine from a reliable modder who's done some refurb & added a region mod. I quit researching around then due to the notable expense of finding such a unit. Then this summer, we got a tip from our union rep that new contract negotiations were going poorly, so I started saving for a strike. A couple weeks ago, we had an 11th hour turnaround that not only stopped the strike, but landed me a $5 an hour raise (?!). So basically, all the strike savings can now be flushed into a stupidly expensive game console. I don't do facebook, but I did make an account at the pcenginefx forums, so I'll be poking around there for sure. Since I wasn't entirely expecting to be able to afford one, I'm willing to take my time & make sure I get a good machine- especially since I'm not likely to be able to afford fixing a dud (at least for awhile.) Thanks for all the info so far!

So- I am very pleased to say that I am now offically in the market for a Turbo Duo! I also don't exactly know where I should be starting here I'd like a unit that's been region-modded & recapped. I don't need better than composite video in my setup, but I'm not sure what the default is on the system (I think some models only do RF?) I'd prefer a US unit, but I'm certainly not turning down a PC Engine Duo that meets my needs. I'm not really in a hurry, so any advice on the best places to be looking- or avoiding!- would be appreciated.

Becuase sadly, there are some sellers who aren't very mature/professional about their transactions, and will use their hurt feelings as an excuse to mistreat a buyer (either the one who did the 'insulting' or the poor soul who comes along next.) If it's someplace where there's an actual number listed- 'Eleventeen dollars OBO' kind of thing- I don't offer less than half. If they have an at all reasonable price listed, less than half is greedy. If it's expensive enough that more than half off is required to be fair, well they're clearly unreasonable & not likely to deal with you to begin with. One exception: If a listing is older (think more than a month), I may go put up a standing offer. Basically, I tell the seller I'm interested, but the price I'm willing to pay is much lower than what they're asking & I doubt they want to sell for that- but if at some point they decide that amount is OK, they can contact me & we'll have a deal. This is a VERY rare occurrence, as it means I have to be ready to pay whatever I said at pretty much anytime, but it has worked out in the past. For listings with no price at all- quite frankly, I ignore those completely. I think it's on the seller to do some research and get a starting price going. If they're not willing to go that far, I worry about how much effort they'll put into packing & shipping in a timely manner. if your item is rare/unusual enough that you can't get a good idea of what it's worth, make an inquiry thread- "I have this thing I want to sell, but I'm not sure the value, can you help me out?" You get insight into the pricing from people not currently in the market (perhaps they've bought one already) while subtly tipping off that you've got the thing to sell, so interested parties who are willing to toss out offers can get in touch with you.

If you're lucky, it's made from the European laserdisc- the best quality release of the movie before it got vaulted permanently. We've got one of those- it's got an easter egg of the Hatfield & McCoy's cartoon with Japanese subtitles on it.

I'm betting it's more of people just taking the disc outright, or people donating an empty game case & no one ever bothering to check. My newest acquisition is Madagascar for the GBA! … ok, let me explain... my mom just bought a 2014 jeep (to replace her 1994 jeep), and was digging around under the seats for something my niece dropped, & found this random game. Haven't tried it yet (obviously not in a rush for this title), but it was free- and it's clearly been down there awhile becuase it has a $10 price tag on it. Either that or games are really expensive in Alaska (the car's history says it started out in Alaska.) Do used car dealerships count as thrift stores?

My understanding is, when you choose to open your gift is entirely up to you, but it's expected that you will share its contents with us here- especially given that some Santas never reveal themselves, so this is the only way for them to know the gift(s) arrived safely & to be thanked. Anyhow, my package went out today, so soon one of YOU will have to face this dilemma! *mwahahaha*

I know the feeling, man- but it's still around if you can luck out & be the first one in on it. I mean, if I can find good stuff in my area- my tech-savvy, multiple media reseller, folks sitting in the thrift store open to close stalking new merch, area- I'm sure everyone's got a chance!

There is a big difference between a museum artifact, where the value is tied in the specific piece & therefore reproductions have no notable value, & a piece of media where the media itself rather than the form it takes has its own intrinsic value. Personally, I think it's kind of funny to bring up museums as an 'it's preserved so don't worry about it' solution- all it takes is a few people choosing not to maintain that museum to result in catastrophic losses. It's not like people are demanding cabinets be put into production & placed in every street corner in the world set to free play... we'd just like to have the ROM so the game can be played in some form, even if it's not the original one. Just in case the 3 existing machines are destroyed or break. Assuming that's not already the case- considering it seems only one of these machines has ever been shown to the public, we're just taking it on good faith that the other two haven't broken down, been in a fire, or smashed by an angry ex sick of these stupid games. For a game that has no commercial value, the only thing holding it back is some person choosing their 'investment' over contributing to gaming culture... which, considering the kind of money one would need to already have to afford stupid crap like prototype arcade cabinets, makes this kind of thing rather tragic.

Also along those lines...

Well of course they aren't doing an N64 Mini yet... we need whatever-the-sucessor-to-the-virtual-console-is to hit switch first, then when it starts petering out, MAYBE we'll get that mini! I mean seriously, how many times has you been able to buy Mario 64 and Ocarina of time? 3, 4ish? We gotta get up to 6-7 first!

Considering the myriad of paper goods over 100 years old floating around, I think it's safe to say your cardboard will outlast you as long as it's taken care of. UV is gonna be your worst enemy- if you've got it somewhere you can see it, it's in the process of falling apart just becuase of how the light contributes to the breakdown. By the same token, storage can be an issue becuase a lot of storage isn't climate controlled, meaning at some point it's likely to get wet. Wet can be just as bad as UV, causing instant warping & ink bleed/transfer, and eventually molding. There's a reason some of the best-lived old cardboard in most people's homes is board games- they get stored in closets in a house you're keeping dry & temperate becuase you live in it. In short- the easiest thing to keep your cardboard long-term without paying for fancy protections is just to keep it in a bedroom closet. But if you're going for an archival piece that you want to last as long as possible? Pay for the fancy protections- the nicer it stays, the more it will be worth as time goes on.

Think of it this way: I sell housewares for a living. We get a new shipment of coffee pots in. I have a customer who was waiting for this model, so I go down to the loading dock and take it straight off the truck to sell immediately (which we will do if the situation arises.). The customer gets home, opens the coffee pot, and discovers the carafe is cracked- damaged in shipping. Can he return it? By your logic, no- it is not the store who damaged the coffee pot, we never had the chance. The shipping company damaged the coffee pot. He should have been aware of the risks of buying straight off the truck. Of course, the actual answer is yes- we chose the carrier, we are responsible. There isn't a store anywhere that would deny that return. And if said store got a lot of broken coffee pots, they'd do well to find a new carrier. That's the logic Ebay runs under. You, as the seller, chose the terms of delivery. You chose the carrier, you chose to not offer tracking. If your choices result in a lost package, you are responsible, even though you're not the one who lost the package. Honestly, Ebay often takes this a step further- the one lost package I had from Ebay & opened a case over, I did say I believed the seller was acting in good faith- and in the end Ebay refunded my money from their pocket, not the seller's- it's called a 'no fault' decision & it's how Ebay tries to keep both its sellers and buyers happy. (With varying degrees of success.) In this specific case, I only have one question: What kind of shipping did you pay for? EMS should arrive in 2-5 days, Airmail within 14, 3-4 weeks for SAL. Given that there's 2 shipping times to account for, unless you paid for EMS shipping he's actually within an appropriate shipping range. You could certainly call him out on the racist commentary, but it seems like as far as the actual business end went he did just fine.

Good lordy, is that a heck of a lot- I feel like there's a story here we'll never get to know! *seething 35 year old sits mom down in front of computer, goes to Ebay, and illustrates mistake* This is part of why I will randomly spit out game values at relatives from time to time... no one would dare mess with my games for fear of accidentally losing/damaging an expensive one. (Granted, no one would dare mess with my games becuase my family's good people & respect my stuff- but knowing the value doesn't hurt either.)

I don't know if anyone's in the market for a Wonderswan, but this is a surprisngly good lot to start a collection with: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Swancrystal-w-Tori-Puzzle-Bobble-Rhyme-Little-Xi-Digimon-Medley-SD-Gundam/302926790057?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Daa31c6f9ff5b4621bceed0b5735e0e83%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D9%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D253889554971%26itm%3D302926790057&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A24ec080d-e8f5-11e8-bf79-74dbd180f1b6%7Cparentrq%3A183eb41b1670aa669476f40efff9bb48%7Ciid%3A1

The vast majority of my overseas packages are marked 'collectibles'. I think that's a safe way to go.

I'd go with Goo Gone over Goof Off for your sticker residue. Goof Off's great to have for marker removal (I need to get some), but it's gonna be a bit harsh for your sticker gunk. Goo Gone should be just about right. I keep around a Goo Gone & a lemon furniture polish for de-stickering. The lemon polish is very mild, so you can let it sit & soak on most things without hurting it. I've taken stickers off of other stickers with it before (think a price tag on a label).You just have to be sure to get a one that foams well, otherwise it'll be too wet. Plus, the polish is good for shining up plastics again.

I've never gone with Altantic, but I know people who have- you really have to watch the weight, the shelves tend to bow when fully laden. My Sauder tower has held up quite well, but it's a dinky lil' thing (only about 3 feet tall, 1 foot wide). No idea if a bigger one would have the same bowing issues or not.

One thing that I've found helps immensely with game storage: front-to-back rows instead of library style. Since most shelving is far deeper than the actual games are, turning the storage 180 degrees helps maximize the space far better- not to mention when paired with some good storage boxes or drawers is a lot easier to access the games then doubled up library rows. I don't currently have the luxury of any sort of dedicated media space, so my collection has to fit in my bedroom. I've gotten pretty darn good at conserving space!

My besta is being used largely for media storage. The overall unit is a double-wide tall bookshelf, so something like 80"x46". It holds well over 1,000 DVDs (I started pairing down before I ever filled it.). Right now the top quarter is pre-NES stuff, so that's a space about 20" tall by 46" deep holding 6 consoles, all the games, a box for a pong console (currently off for repair), videogame related screwdrivers, a DVD burner, and a couple empty boxes slated for overflow games later. Removing all else I'd say the space could hold 6-12 consoles, depending on size (my model 1 Channel F, for example, takes up most of a shelf on its own). I'm not necessarily expecting a change over, just an alternate option. I'm always surprised at the lack of attention the besta line gets when it's so versatile.