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About phipscube

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    Space Invader

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  1. If it worked with multibutton it would feel pretty ok for games that work with digital only. I'm not really sure if the limitation is the remotes controller chip or the unit. Maybe some of the Nuon gurus know? Its the same with the original Toshiba SD2300 remote and also with the N501. But if a more advanced IR controller could be used the that would help. The other problem is not all games work with IR and the ones that do have no way to use analogue stick input via IR. So if say an N64 controller was used in the hack instead, then there is no way to harness the analogue stick (or even extra buttons for that matter) on the IR input. The games would need patching or re-coding or something fancy that I don't understand I have wondered why VM Labs didn't make wireless (IR or radio freq) the standard, and have maybe an all in one remote/game controller. I have a Commodore CDTV which uses a similar idea and its remote/controller is ok for games. Its much simpler 2 button affair but its fine for Amiga games. There was a wireless controller on its way but it was way too late It could be possible to make a wireless controller but it would need to interface with the control ports via an adapter... but then there is the whole polyface chip problem too... As for hacking existing pads with polyface chips to be wireless, well it could be possible but beyond my understanding. All i've done here is hacked into the remote and extended the buttons to the jag pad buttons
  2. Well I have managed to make the joypad hack! It works reasonably well. The biggest drawback is that the receiver only accepts one button press at a time, it cannot handle multi button presses (eg direction + fire, has to be direction or fire) so it takes a little practice to play for example Tempest. But I found a way with tapping quickly the directions and fire alternately. Once the first powerup comes and autofire is active it is much better! I have tested Ballistic too and that works really well! It works with freefall but is just as unplayable as with a real digital only pad... it relies on analogue and this doesn't have it. I don't have Merlin racing, Tetris or Space Invaders yet but I think it could be ok with them too
  3. I'm going to basically use the jag pad as a shell for the remote. The IR diode will poke out where the wire would be and i'll make some holes to insert batteries. I'll wire A to enter, B to return and C to number 4 (so it at least has all the buttons needed for Tempest) and then maybe some of the keypad to other buttons if I can. Its more for fun than anything, not expecting it to be any good Yeah its probably never gonna happen with Tempest 3000 re-issue... but one can wish
  4. I've just recently got myself a Toshiba SD2300 and N501... I bought IS3 and a faulty Jag pad from you (which is almost delivered). I plan to hack a generic toshiba remote (came by accident with the SD2300) into the Jag pad to see if I can make some kind of working controller for now... if you manage to make some new controllers with Lee then i'll be buying two! .... also if you happen to maaaybe at some point think about making a re-run of Tempest 3000 i'll be instantly buying a copy!!!
  5. This looks absolutely fantastic! Please add me to the pre order list :-)
  6. The voltage coming out of mine is 4.95V as well. So maybe that's the problem....
  7. My lynx eventually stopped lighting the power LED completely, so I think mine is to do with the ribbon. I recently bought a junk lynx to try and salvage from it, but not had time to try. Will post here if my problem is solved replacing it.
  8. I used the Recom R-785.0-1.0 and did exactly as the instructions. Does the LED get its connection through the same ribbon cable that connects all the buttons? The only other thing I can think of is those fragile connections have broken a bit. Before this mod it worked fine. I had also done a full cap replacement before this as I bought the lynx not working with screen issues, replacing all caps fixed that, but I still had problems with power now and then (screen flickering with some strange sounds), so found this mod and tried it, I also replaced Q12 at the same time. Since then the LED started flashing, but it seems to have cured the screen problem the last 3 days I have been playing with it. But I wonder as I have undone that ribbon cable a few times now....
  9. The 5 volt line coming from the recom Regulator is measuring a steady 4.99V. The eneloop batts are at 7.63V, the regular alkaline batts at 8.92V.
  10. I have this problem with regular alkaline batts as well. I don't have a psu to test if it does the same when plugged in. Turning the screen off then back on again momentarily fixes the problem, but after some time it starts again. It must be something to do with a resistor somewhere as you said 7800fan. I thought Q11 controlled the power button, without it would the lynx not turn on or off properly? If anyone knows which resistor is controlling the flasher circuit and what might be a better value, that would be great. Does anyone else have this issue after performing the mod?
  11. Hi, I'm new here I got an Atari Lynx recently and decided to perform this mod to be sure it works well for many more years. It all worked well apart from I notice something weird. My Power LED flashes when I use batteries, but not the very first time I turn it on, only the second time and every time thereafter. If I pull the batteries and wait a minute then install again, the same happens. First power on is fine, but thereafter the light constantly flashes. I use rechargeable Eneloop batts which have been fine before the mod and have been checked to be fully charged. I even tried with a second set I had and some Non Rechargeable Alkaline Types and got the same issues. If I turn the screen off for a second then back on the problem goes away, so I can stop it, but its a little bother that i'd like to fix if its possible...
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