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About bobmoo79

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  1. bobmoo79

    Broken Suzy?

    please keep this thread updated with progress. im interested!
  2. Have you managed to look into this yet?? One word of caution if not...be very careful with the flex membrane that connects the buttons to the mainboard. It has graphite (I think) contacts, rather than the more usual standard metal contacts and they wear off VERY easily if you disconnect/reconnect it, and then you'll need to buy a new membrane from the USA (or a good used one on Ebay if you can find one). At a stretch you could cut off a few mm before you reconnect it but it's not ideal. When I worked on my latest Lynx project i did all I could to make sure I didn't unplug the membrane at all to avoid damaging it.
  3. I use eneloop batteries because they have great battery life, and they fit fine, but I know what you mean. I found that Rechargeable Duracell Ultra (AA) batteries have a slightly longer body than a standard AA battery and wouldn't fit in my baby monitor. Before that I thought they were all a standard size but they're not.
  4. yes 40mm is the one to go for. you have to desolder the wires from the old one and solder them onto the new one. the old one is clipped in to place so you may need to use a small flat screwdriver to remove it. the new one just clips in place. I assume it's the same for Atari lynx 1, mine is lynx ii.
  5. So in the end I ordered a replacement LCD from a guy in Italy (via Ebay) and that arrived yesterday. After letting the system run for a quite a while I didn't see any of the horrendous ghosting or colour bleed that blighted my old LCD, so I'm going to consider this unit fixed now. Perhaps not quite as good as getting new old stock from Best Electronics but it was certainly cheaper and did the job brilliantly. Oh and I also ordered a new speaker from Ebay too, so the sound is now much clearer too! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Sizes-Small-Speakers-8-Ohm-0-5W-Metal-Frame-Mini/233227469203?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=532726494967&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 This one is the right size (40mm) and clips into the case just like the original. As it's not a paper cone it should last longer with a cleaner sound - better than buying new old stock, and probably no worse than the one Best now recommend instead of the original. Can't wait to spend some time properly putting this old machine through its paces now.
  6. that looks nice. the only 3d printed things I've seen come out of my mate's 3d printer has that spaghetti effect where you can see the filament in the finished product. yours looks nice and smooth! random question: there used to be a website where you could upload an stl and get quotes from people who owned a printer and would sell you a print. any idea what that site was? I wanted to use it a few months ago. the sites I found were all corporate and charged far too much.
  7. I changed to a 1w zener and it's working brilliantly.
  8. thank you for all you help. I checked the voltage on pin7 and pin 14 of U11 and it was 4.8v so this appears to be working perfectly well now. I will consider changing the Zener Diode for a miniMELF 1W variety at some point but for now this one is working well enough.
  9. It works with the DC jack, but not all with batteries? The schematic is here and it doesn't look as though there's much to go wrong. Maybe start by checking the soldering on the battery connections to the PCB, and also the PCB traces from those connections to the relevant points? https://atariage.com/Lynx/archives/schematics/index.html?SystemID=LYNX I'm sure somebody else will come along to offer better technical support. 🙂
  10. so I removed the links and the lynx now appears to be working correctly(yay!) but I'm wondering why d13 failed. obviously d13 failure is BAD because it can kill the lynx and I want this to live for many years. so I wonder whether the components i selected when i did the mosfet and diode replacement are correct. I thin they are but can somebody check for me?? here is a list of components I used during this repair. do they look ok to you? or d13 I used 1N5229BTR. https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/zener-diodes/8050126/ for q12 i used AOD514 https://alltransistors.com/pdfview.php?doc=aod514.pdf&dire=_aosemi thanks
  11. yes d13 didn't seem right to me so i took it off the pcb and it was definitely faulty! I hadn't checked it in a while but I'm sure when this thing went wrong it was fine, so I'm confused. maybe I didn't check it after all. anyway, I put a new one on the pcb and now with the wire jumpers in place it shows 'insert cartridge', which is fantastic news. I inserted a cartridge and the game loads. I haven't had time to remove the wire jumpers yet but will do later. if it doesn't power on then, my guess is it will be a faulty flex circuit. thanks again for your help and I'll post again as soon as I have removed the jumpers.
  12. hello again, DVM in diode mode: d13 reads 47 in both directions. d12 reads 152 with COM in the left pin (red on the centre pin) d12 reads 147 with red on the left pin (COM on the centre pin) DVM set to resistance mode: r74 reads 108 ohm. u1 pin 7 and 14 reads 153ohm.
  13. you were correct, that jumper wasn't connected. i checked and needed to resolder one of the links on because it had come loose! I checked r67 and it measures 260k in circuit. close enough? so once again I measure u6 voltages with the Atari psu connected and BOTH wire links connected as you requested. DVM COM connected to d11. 1- 9V 2- 0.3V 3- 0.3V 4- 11.8V 5- 11.8v 6- 0.1V 7- 0V (GND) 8- 0.1V 9- 11.8v 10- 0.1V 11- 10.9v 12- 12.V 13- 0.1V 14- 12V (VCC) im not sure what you're asking me to do with u6 pin13 and tp17. I've connected those together now so perhaps that request is no longer required. thanks for your patience
  14. almost forgot the photo. please ignore the red test wires. they're only connected at one end. the white wire connects c52 to c11.
  15. sorry for any misunderstanding. to avoid removing the metal shield I connected positive side of c11 to c52 (nearest side to c38). this is the same as shorting pins 31 and 33 of cart connector and easier too 😀 without a cart inserted I still get these: (com connected to d11, then without black band): 1- 12V 2- 0V 3- 0V 4- 12V 5- 12v 6- 0V 7- 0V (GND) 8- 0V 9- 12v 10- 12V 11- 0v 12- 0V 13- 12V 14- 12V (VCC)
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