fdr4prez

Yes, an external power source will be needed. It would be best if you have optoisolaters used between the console and whatever adapter you are planning on building. This way the console never sees anything other than its own ground signal. Or at minimum a diode on each pin so the circuit's power isn't fed into the Intellivision console. Otherwise you can get this issue:

There is no power pin on the Intellivision controller. Pin 5 is the common ground. So as any particular button, or disc direction, is pressed you are simply passing ground to those needed pins. The pins are pulled up in the console, and pulled low by pressing something on the controller. If you measure the voltage of the pins when nothing is pressed, it would measure 5v

Yeah, with a 2K game you need to concentrate on the core game, including 2-player support. I am always surprised by how much game can get packed into a 2k game But your next game, BBlocks 2, will be action packed with additional suggestions, power ups, exploding combos and moreso

You just need to map out to the needed pins on the original console or the Intv2 console. It is all shown here: http://arcarc.xmission.com/Web Archives/Deathskull (May-2006)/games/tech/intvcont.html

that is correct: Male: Female:

Yeah, thanks. That is something I've not thought of. One more reason for me to get a 3D printer These are a little cheaper off of ebay, but i like Adafruit For the real 5200 controller experience you can get one of these in the "non-auto-centering" versions https://ebay.us/wsyT4r

Yeah, the good ol' System Changer. You could play using Atari controllers or play with Intellivision controllers. Playing Atari games using the Intellivision controllers never felt quite right. Atari threatened to sue Mattel, but it was shown to be a clone with all off the shelf hardware, and Atari didn't think they'd win so no lawsuit was drawn up.

That's my thought, too

It looks sloppy to me. Zoom in on picture #5. It looks like a piece of pipe/tubing glued over the stick with a button on it.

I've never purchased an iCade, but I was looking at one recently that was on the used market. I was considering whether or not a Raspberry Pi could utilize it via bluetooth and I'd get a small HDMI monitor for it. I know people have rebuilt them using a Pi, but I don't know if the stock iCade is usable as-is on a Pi. Here is one such rebuild: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=159642.0

@Andromeda Stardust Did you ever find an affordable analog arcade stick. I am also looking for one. There is this one from Adafruit for $20 with 10k pots, so that isn't a bad price, but except for the fact that it is a bit on the small side. https://www.adafruit.com/product/3102

I've never played Bejeweled, but I like to play the M&M Flip the Mix game https://archive.org/details/FlipTheMix Are you keeping track of the number of possible moves internally in the background? The M&M Flip the Mix game gives an indication of the number of possible moves/matches. And when there are zero possible moves (game over for your version), then the M&M game gives you three shuffles per game. So the game isn't over until the number of possible matches is zero and there are no shuffles remaining. If displaying the number of possible moves isn't feasible, then how about an indication of some kind when the number of possible moves is 1 or less than 5. Possible indications could be a change in color of the score, or a change in color of the background, or play a certain sound effect, or the background music changes to something more ominous/scary

OK, your original post made it sound like you already have a Pi. No worries, we are all here to help. I've never used the composite out from the Pi, but it is there.

Well I'm confused. You state that your Pi is connected to LCD HDMI And mr_me correctly stated: Do a google search and you can see that this is a quite common issue. So if you don't want lag, then connect your Pi to the 1702, as mr_me recommended: All Pi have composite out, so this will fix your lag issue. You also stated: So what is your computer's display? You don't mention if it is an HDMI monitor or not. If it isn't HDMI then you can get a RPi VGA HAT and connect your Pi to the same display as your computer.

Thanks, Hankster. Happy 4th to you and yours, too.

Not sure, but I'd imagine that if there is a difference between jzintv and real hardware, then this may be something that @intvnut may be able to help with to get the emulator emulating the same way as the real hardware.

Yeah, you don't want to put the board in upside down - trying to swim around and eat fish while upside down is quite the challenge

Yeah, the Rebels never really attacked/bombed any city/planet directly with their ships - At least not that I recall The battle at Scarif was a ground assault with a big space battle.

A little game called Bomb Squad ...oh, wrong type of bombing

These last few entries stretch the imagination some, so I will offer that Pitfall is really the Jedi training on Degobah

Yes, that is good good adapter. You should be quite happy with it.

Reach out to the makers of the adapter you purchased and see if the paddle support could be added

I think there is some confusion between "I sprayed the ports" and spraying the pots inside the controller - i think he is meaning the DB9 ports on the console, and not the pots into the paddle controller. If the controllers work fine on another console, then spraying the ports on this bad console isn't going to gain you much. You are going to need to dig deeper for the issue.