brento

Interesting. I noticed when the SNES is powered on, and the NES's cord is touched with my finger, about half of the 'snow' disappears. Why would that be? Grounding issue?

Well, I decided to dig in further and open up the little piece of plastic that guards the mechanism which slides into place when the power button is on. I noticed the metal inside was severely corroded, so now I am guessing it must have something to do with this. Tried cleaning and fixing it, but same issue. I do have another power/reset part to test it out with. Maybe I'll do that... just to see if 7800fan's theory is correct or incorrect

Yeah, I will take back my comments indicating that the third party power supplies are not right for the system, as they do work. It's just odd that they produce that static if and only if you are also using a third party av cord.

So I just got a 'non-working' NES which in fact, does work, after I did some testing. Had a look at the board, didn't notice anything wrong. Pressed the power button, and it came on. Pressed it again, nothing. So I pressed the reset button, and boom, power comes on. It seems the Power button will only work if the reset button was pushed before it. If I turn off the system with the power button, and then try turning it back on with the power button, nothing happens. But if I press the reset button, and THEN press the power button, the system comes on. Resetting the console if it is on simply resets it as normal. Has anyone come across this before or knows of a potential solution?

Update: I think I have solved some of the confusion. I recently did a test with 4 different Super Nintendo consoles, power supplies, and cords. Here are my results. I *only* get the scanning static lines if both the AV cords and power supply are 3rd party. If I mix an OEM AV cable with a third party AC adapter, no problem. Same thing is true if I use a third party AV cable plus original power supply... again, no problem. So! The problem seems to be that using BOTH third part av cable and ac adapter is the issue. This sort of sucks, as I have recently been fixing up Super Nintendos, raising them from the dead. And when I get "broken" consoles, they never have the OEM cables or power supply. I don't want to give these perfectly functional SNES consoles to people with the static issue. And trust me, I know it's nothing wrong with the SNES consoles as they are ALL perfectly fine with OEM cables. So, now since I am not rabidly against *just* the third party AC adapters, I am now open to using them, but need compatible AV cables. So, I am wondering if anyone here has ordered third-party cables and does not have the static / rolling lines problem? And do you remember where you bought them if you did so online? I'd like to find a good combo of third-party cables that don't have this static issue.

I'm interested in this... Currently wondering if the RetroUSB HDMI console seems a worthy alternate. It's a whole new console that can play NES games perfectly... No need to mod the NES. But I like the idea of using the original hardware. I'm not sure I trust myself to do such a complex install. The price of outright buying a high def NESscared me at first, mainly since I live in Canada and the shipping plus exchange rate would not be nice to me... Buuuut if all caps have been replaced and the install done by experts... It's very tempting since this gives new life to the NES. Maybe get both this and the Retro USB. Haha.

Interesting thing with the audio hum. The audio hum thing happens with all 3 of my Genesis systems which use OEM adapters. Mind you, I haven't opened up the adapters to see if all of the capacitors are in good shape. is this just something we get with the Genesis? I dunno, I've never owned one until about a year ago... And is there any cure for it?

Smack: any luck?

Iceman: I'm glad they worked out for you... I do wonder why mine wasn't perfect and yours is. I mean, it can't be that they're exactly the same. Perhaps since I got mine over a year ago, they've been improved since then. I remember that one game (Starfox) didn't work at all while others had distortion in the picture. Just curious what prob it gave for your Genesis? On my NES and Genesis it worked perfectly. It was just the SNES with probs. I noticed that the output of an OEM SNES adapter is 10v & 850ma. The output on my old Chinese-made 3-in-1 is 9v 850ma. Not sure if that's a big deal or not. Thecrypticodor: Your explanation seems good... It seems to me the 9v 10v difference isn't a big deal... It did look a lot like RF noise. I'm sure that was it... A shame these things are made without the proper filters. Dunno why Star Fox was weird... It never worked with that 3rd party adapter. Could it be voltage related or maybe I was just unlucky that day...

Iceman: I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that yellow packaged 3-in-1 is not good for the SNES. It is fine, however, for Genesis and NES though I've heard the build quality is questionable. The problem with the adapter there is that it's specs don't match the original of the SNES. This led to (for me and others) some distortion in the picture... either rolling lines or static.

I don't know about you but I've tried out various third party adapters on my SNES and none of them seem to do the job like the ole trusty Nintendo branded one. I keep seeing minor distortion in the picture quality. I am wondering if anyone here has used a third party AC adapter that works as well as the Nintendo one... Just look at these poor reviews of this third party adapter. Scrolling lines down your screen, the wrong amount of power being fed to your SNES. It's sketchy. https://www.amazon.com/Super-Nintendo-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply/dp/B000A7I71C I don't like all these "all in one" adapters. Why can't someone just make one that's truly SNES compatible? I'm shocked that nobody seems to have done it... Unless I'm missing something.

Cool. This is great stuff I'm learning here...

Ok will look into that too. I also noticed that game cartridges have capacitors too. But question... Why do game carts have capacitors? And do you recommend changing those too? I guess the biggest fear is that one would leak onto your cart's board...

^ That's right. I have two NES systems. One is the original loading toaster style, and I clipped the pin... has worked great, but honestly, I don't think that was needed. It's all about the cleanliness of the contacts. As for the Blinking Light Win, that is not clipped, and it works *every time* simply because the contacts are... well... making contact! So yeah, thumbs up to Arcadeworks.