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livingonwheels

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Everything posted by livingonwheels

  1. I emailed Troile customer service to inquire about my order (my VCS order didn't appear under "my orders" in my Troile account). My emails were being returned as "undeliverable". Yesterday I contacted PayPal and asked them to inquire about this company (seller appears in PayPal as "verified" but "non-US"). Today received an email from PayPal stating "We're reviewing the information provided by shan xi li shang yuan ke ji you xian gong si". Finally a few minutes ago I got the following message from PayPal - "We reviewed the case you filed on June 20, 2022 and have decided in your favor. We've issued a refund of $95.49 USD to you."
  2. Same with me. I ordered one too just to see what happens. Still says 5 remaining even though those windows are constantly coming up notifying me that another has just sold. I'll be surprised if we get this. Not so much because of the price (GameStop offered them for $100 not long ago) but just the weird unlimited stock this guy seems to have. If it wasn't for PayPal buyer protection I wouldn't have taken the chance.
  3. Changing the voltage regulator didn't solve the issue (though I do believe the voltage regular was damaged and needed to be replaced). Still no power light, and any power supply gets really hot while plugged into the unit. There is a chip marked "77" that is near the power jack which is getting extremely hot. I think I need to replace that chip, if I can find one.
  4. Yes, I feel going to a Batteries Plus store might have made things easier as far as the tabs are concerned (I have one a few miles away which I will use next time if needed). The batteries linked above were the correct batteries, but try as I might, I just could not solder those tabs onto the batteries. It's a very tight fit in the enclosure though, so I soldered a ball of solder on each end of the tabs. When I put the enclosures back together, the ends of the tabs were thick enough to make very tight contact with the batteries. I then used Crazy Glue Gel to seal them back up again. I had to cut the enclosures open with a razor blade to open them and remove the old batteries. I reused the original tabs, the pulled off easy enough. Sure, I would have preferred to solder them on, but even though I roughed up the battery ends, I could not get the solder to stick. And the longer I tried, the hotter the batteries would get. I feared they might explode if I pressed my luck. I practiced on the old batteries first, and after roughing up their ends, I had no problem soldering to those oddly enough. EDIT: One unfortunate thing I noticed though is I don't think all these batteries are created equal. They are relatively cheap rechargeables after all ($7.49 for 8 batteries). I noticed that one of the batteries are getting warmer during charging than the rest. I believe that means it's being over charged. The others are fine, don't notice any heat. It's not super hot or anything, and they are working well in the WiiMote, but I think one of the 4 batteries I used is not quite as good as the others. I didn't notice this until after I sealed the cases up with Crazy Glue though, but I'll keep an eye on them. I might have to eventually reopen one of the enclosures to replace that battery if it doesn't hold a long enough charge.
  5. I have a Nyko Wii Charge Station that needs replacement rechargeable batteries. I managed to cut open the enclosure to remove the batteries, but there are no markings on the batteries themselves. The enclosure has Battery Packs 87000-A50-0107 on them. Same width, but shorter than a standard AA battery, and no nubs on the top of the batteries. Also, if I do find replacement rechargeables, what's the best way to solder that piece of metal between them (marked BL 175 720A, see pics)? I've attempted something similar with other batteries (coin type, CR2032) at one time and one of the batteries blew up during the soldering process.
  6. Upon further testing the power supply appears to be working normally. I suppose it had become so hot while plugged into the damaged console that it took nearly a half hour to cool down. By itself it no longer gets hot and I get a voltage reading of 13.65 volts which I presume is in a safe range.
  7. I accidentally used a power supply with the wrong polarity with a Sega Genesis 2. Now when using the correct power supply, it will not turn on, and the red power light on the console doesn't turn on either. The official Sega Genesis 2 power supply will turn VERY hot now when it's inserted into the Genesis (whether it's off or on, I think). The power brick itself, as well as the cord gets quite hot. Console motherboard near the power supply input gets hot too. The official power supply "might" be damaged now too, due to trying it with the damaged Genesis. Seems to still be getting hot, even without being connected to the console (was fine before). Reluctant to test the power supply with another Genesis 2, just in case I broke the power supply as well as the Genesis (I unplugged the power supply from the wall for 10 minutes and it's still warm). Any idea what part needs to be replaced in the console? I see no damage on either side of the board (physical inspection).
  8. This chip appears to be for Arcade Boards only. Asking $50, free shipping. Located in USA. Was considering just returning it, but perhaps someone here might find it useful, and you'd be saving around $10. Tested it in an Atari 7800 Concerto Cart (does not work properly in BallBlazer or Commando, but does work correctly in some homebrews). Tested it in a Atari 5200 Console (makes some of the buttons on the 5200 controllers stop working). I've spoken to the developer about these issues, and these are some of his responses: "The Pokey testers he's using may be testing features of the real POKEY that the P1 doesn't have, like serial communication or keyboard pulses". "FYI the POKEY tester I built and use for quality control does the following tests: * data input * data output * sound on each of the four channels * random number generator (same RNG test that Tempest does) * DIP switch interface * keyboard interface * serial I/O A working PokeyONE will pass all of these tests except the last two, but that's because the P1, by design, doesn't support those features". "I’m pretty sure the issue is that the Concerto multi-game cartridge doesn’t play nice with the P1". "It was never tested for that, and truly was tested for arcade games above all else, which it works flawlessly in".
  9. Tempest needs some improvement. Menu asked to press buttons not on the classic controller (for example, "press X for menu"). Spinner seems off somehow, not precise. Atari Jaguar version (with spinner dial) is far superior so far. Flying through the loops between stages is impossible for me because both the up/down and left/right axis are reversed. Unable to get out of certain menus because the buttons don't exist on the classic controller, you need to actually back out to the VCS dash and start over. You must use the Atari button as your "power up" button which makes little sense, perhaps if your a lefty and control the dial with your left hand (and don't hold it too long or else you'll pause the game). It's unplayable if you control the dial with your right hand, how could you possibly press the Atari button (edit: I'm using my ring finger)? The "B" button isn't being used and would work great as the "power " button, why isn't that an option (edit: just discovered that it's because it's the jump button)? Doesn't seem to have any controller options. Honestly I don't think the classic controller has enough proper buttons for this game. Very disappointed, especially for $20. This is not in the same league as the Recharged games, at least at this point.
  10. Has anyone successfully used a mouse with these recharged games on the VCS? Specifically Breakout and Missile Command? My mouse, either wireless or wired, constantly pauses the games anytime a mouse key is pressed making it unplayable. Missile Command used to work correctly, but that was awhile ago, probably before any other recharged games were released.
  11. I plan on purchasing a Hokey chip as soon as they become available. But in the meantime, I've been using a PokeyOne chip. Doesn't seem to be fully compatible with the Concerto, am I correct? BallBlazer's music worked great for about a half hour or so, but has suddenly stopped working at all. I might get a few seconds of music upon start, but after that nothing but constant clicking noises instead of music. I find it weird that I have never been able to get the music running correctly again. Commando's music seems to work fine, as long as I use a stock 7800 console. If I use my composite modded (Yellow, Red, White plugs) 7800, the music will cut off about 5 seconds in. Most of the Pokey Test Roms do not work, but a couple do such as Donkey Kong PK-XM and POKEY (Sample) (20140301). Has anyone tried one of these PokeyOne chips in their Concerto? This website gives more information on this specific chip: https://hotrodarcade.com/products/pokeyone-atari-pokey-chip-replacement-for-atari-arcade-games
  12. Yes, I am able to hear the frequency anytime a CRT TV is turned on too! The sound seems to be coming from near the power supply port and the vents of the VCS. The sound isn't there on my unit while in "rest" or "sleep" mode though. By the way, while in "sleep" mode, is the official modern controller supposed to wake the system up? Mine doesn't, I still have to push the power button on the rear of the VCS to wake it up. I play wirelessly if that makes any difference. My concert history is not as vast as yours. I went to a Monkees concert. And Weird Al Yankovic opened for them.😆
  13. I should have been more specific. This is the "New" Atari VCS that was released a couple years ago (via Kickstarter), not the old Atari VCS from the 70's. Upon further testing though, I found something curious. If I remove the power supply jack from directly from behind the VCS, the whistling stops immediately. But if I unplug the power supply from the wall (leaving the power supply's barrel jack plug still inserted in the VCS), it takes around 5-10 seconds for the whistling sound to dissipate.
  14. Definitely coming from inside the VCS itself. Out of curiosity, if you place your ear on the top of your VCS, while turned off, do you hear anything coming from inside the console?
  15. Maybe I have hearing like a dog, but I've recently noticed a very faint, high pitched whistle sound coming from the VCS while it's turned off. Sometimes I may have to put my ear to the console to be sure, but most of the time I can hear it from a few feet away. Once you hear it, you can never "unhear" it, so unplugging the VCS from the electrical outlet is the only way. If I unplug it, then replug it, the sound immediately returns (without turning the VCS on). I don't seem to hear it while the console is on, and I definitely don't hear it while the VCS is in "sleep" mode.
  16. Are you using the exact ram the OP recommended? And your still getting a black screen? I have never found a compatible 32gb of ram for my VCS. But I never tried the OP's recommended ram, because I gave up and settled for 16gb over a year ago I think. The black screen with high fan noise happened to me too with all versions of 32gb ram that I tested. If I remember correctly, I had to remove the VCS battery and reinstall it's default ram.
  17. Maybe someone else can help you, because I don't remember. But I do know that the password you used is no longer valid. It was changed to something much more difficult to type in.
  18. Any way to adjust the sensitivity of the classic controller? Would like it to be a bit more sensitive. I feel the dial is a little slow. In the Vault's I believe it was adjustable.
  19. I'm putting quite a lot of time into this game, more so than any other VCS release I believe. 100%ing the game with all gold trophies can get addicting. But I don't think this game can handle couch co op. There are certain tracks where the framerate tanks. Possible into the single digits it seems. No way they can split the screen to accommodate even 1 more player. Anyone know how this game performs on the Nintendo Switch? Am I incorrect in assuming that the Atari VCS is more powerful than the Nintendo Switch?
  20. Doesn't seem like Rally Racers was quite ready for release on the Atari VCS yet:
  21. Same issue here. Asking for a non existent pin.
  22. Warning: Took forever to load my dash. Wanted to continue my Asteroids Recharged Challenge Mode. My game save has been deleted. I will not boot up any of my other games in fear of losing more saves.
  23. I found these in a stash a few years ago. This was there condition when I received them, handwriting and all.
  24. All cartridges will include a digital copy of the game playable on the Atari VCS. But aren't these games already included on the Atari VCS?
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