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About Apocalypse

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    Space Invader
  • Birthday 09/25/1981

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  1. I've replaced all electrolytic (polarised) caps but saw no improvement. However if I gently tap the screen some lines disappear and others appear so I think the driver chips on the screen have started to lose their connections. Not much I can do about that I guess...
  2. Hi karri, I've received the daughterboard, thanks a lot. As expected brightness/contrast now works perfectly, however screen has horizontal bars: Of course I've reflowed the 2 flat cables but no dice. Should I consider the screen dead or can a capkit help in this case (I've read similar problems have been solved this way but I'm a bit doubtful).
  3. Hi all, I got my hands on a pristine Lynx 1. I bought it faulty, I don't remember if the seller mentioned the exact problem. Anyway it does power up and plays blind (sound works so as controls), screen remains blank, brightness/contrast wheel has no effect. By quickly probing few signals I found I had only 3.9V on TP12 where there should be 20V. I went back and found the root cause lies in the small daughterboard used to generate the backlight power (which works fine ~100VAC). One of the coils of the transformer is cut but I'm having the most difficulties sourcing a replacement part. I've googled the 2 references on the PCB (PCU-575 and KU-3294V-O) and the reference of the transformer (CXA-0072 from TDK) with no luck. Is this issue that rare? Does anyone know a cross reference that could be used for this transformer? I want to keep the machine 100% OG so no LED or LCD mod for me. Thanks. P.S.: By isolating TP12 and injecting 20V from an external source with ground in common with the Lynx everything works fine.
  4. Probably 10 or more (I've moved to a foreign country, have lost a part of my collection and few days ago I found a box I didn't open yet full of 2600s). Where do you live? Perhaps you can send me a NTSC or PAL console and I can send you a SECAM console. Do you have any SECAM compatible TV?
  5. Ok It's almost here! So I had no success in converting a REV2 board (based on a NTSC TIA) from SECAM to NTSC. I had no success in converting a REV14 board (based on a PAL TIA) from SECAM to PAL. Now I've installed my circuit in a REV7 board (based on a PAL TIA) and obtained different colours than the original ones! But... Some are wrong. For example in Kangaroo, background is orange (instead of blue) and sides are green (instead of brown)... Surprisingly strawberries are pink and the score is yellow, which is normal. So It's not a complete colour swap. Although It seems to be a small step forward, I'm even more lost than before as I used the same circuit...
  6. Actually I think that's possible : If you take the TIA and the crystals from a NTSC console and install them into a PAL console it should work as a NTSC console. But you need a NTSC TIA. Converting a SECAM console to either PAL or NTSC seems easier to me as some SECAM consoles are based on the PAL TIA, others on the NTSC TIA. Architecture is pretty similar and I didn't think It could be so complicated. I've already made a lot of test but I'm sure I'm missing something. Something a video expert could solve I guess.
  7. Yeah that's the first thing I did: I don't think the capacitor is necessary (not present in my NTSC model) but I wired it anyway with no changes.
  8. So I made the modification given by alex_79 but still no colours. I'm getting mad, this cannot be so complicated.
  9. If you want to get the most of your Game Gear you can also region mod it (in French, sorry. But it's never too late to start learning ) : http://www.segakore.fr/index.php/2015/10/07/region-switch-pour-game-gear#.VjbWffB4SM8
  10. Hi, As you (may) know, the SECAM version of the Atari 2600 can only display 8 colours (based on the eight levels of grey of the B/W mode). Depending of the revision, the console host either a NTSC TIA or a PAL TIA. My idea was too simply revert it back to NTSC (128 colours) or PAL (104 colours). I will try to described what I've achieved so far (note: I've made the same modifications on boths NTSC and PAL based SECAM consoles): 1) Pin 21 (PB3) of the 6532 (RIOT) is grounded on the SECAM model. So I lifted that pin and connected it to a simple switch (closed = to ground, open = floating) => I didn't notice any change in the video (through RF) either in B/W or COLOUR mode. 2) To get rid of all the additional circuitry in the SECAM model I lifted pins 2/5/6/7/8/9 (CSYNC/LUM1/BLK/LUM2/LUM0/COLOR) of the TIA for the NTSC based model and pins 2/5/6/7/9 (CSYNC/LUM1/LUM2/LUM0/COLOR) for the PAL based model. Then I built the exactly same circuit you can find in schematics to create composite signal and I added a small signal amplifier at the end. In both cases I got a clear B/W composite image but no colours... 3) I noticed the DEL pin (colour delay) is connected to +5V on the SECAM model (through a resistor). Again I lifted that pin and wired the missing part of the circuit: Still no colours... 4) Then I swapped crystals from 2 working original NTSC and PAL consoles because I thought there was an issue in frequencies used to encode the colour signal. I obviously installed the crystals from the original NTSC machine in my NTSC based SECAM console and same for PAL => Still no colours in both cases... (But still a good B/W image without rolling, probably because my TVs are all multi-standard). 5) Finally I lifted the same pins mentioned in 2) and 3) on both the original NTSC and PAL machines (after installing the crystals back) and installed my homemade boards in them. => I got colours. So my circuit is working. I did the same tests on 3 different TVs I use for video games with no issue at all with PAL or NTSC machines connected via composite. Now I would like to understand what is the subtle difference I missed that prevent me of getting colours on my modified SECAM machines... If anyone has a clue he's most welcomed!
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