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KreatorKat

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Posts posted by KreatorKat


  1. Oooh, new screens? Does the NGPC have a front-light kit like the afterburner for the Gameboy Advance? Or a replacement backlit screen? Sounds interesting....

     

    That's jogged my memory too.... I'm not sure If I bought one of those front-lit GBA kits. I need to sort my attic. ;-)

    The NGPC has a front light mod but sadly no backlight mod. There's a page about it on RetroRGB.com

    • Like 1

  2. Anthony, great pickups as always :).

     

    My recent Neo Geo pickups are a bit less interesting: some parts for MVS cab to get it to look a bit nicer and run a bit better. Some nice sticks, cleaner buttons, new coin reject lights (mine were dead previously) and a new light panel for the rightmost mini marquee. Have to solder that one on but it seems like it should be quite easy. Still hesitating on buying a new CPO though: $70 isn't cheap for a piece of plastic that doesn't change playability.

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  3. I'm thinking of buying a Jamma supergun is their any good tips on starting MVS system as i understand 1 slot as they basically follow the Jamma standard and Socketed Bios models are preferred for bios access

     

    Also is their any major Neo Geo Scams outside the normal scams going on in the E-markets like ebay as i never dealt with arcade systems that i should watch for

    Scams? Just watch out for bootleg cartridges. When you buy a cart, just open it up and check the boards against verified authentic ones. Boots are usually quite obvious. Sometimes they play just fine, but you don't want to drop 100+ on a cartrige and find out it's a boot after a few months.

    • Like 1

  4. Somehow I've been able to go my whole video gaming life without breaking the $100 barrier on the purchase of a video game. This includes collecting many of the bigger titles on Neo Geo MVS, all purchased below three-figure territory--Until today, when I sprang for a $109 Ironclad Brikinger.

     

    So, of all the fancy games I own, the most expensive purchase in my entire collection is indeed a total fake.

    #Boots4Lyfe

     

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSnffKyskuk

     

     

    I'd never heard of Ironclad before watching that short review. It looks very interesting, but its too bad there never was a real release on the MVS. Maybe someday I'll get a conversion cart.

    • Like 2

  5. I guess we have gone way of topic, but is probably easier just to buy a BC Wii. I doubt those are very rare though I saw some stupid BINs on eBay.

    They are indeed very cheap. The expensive cables do look slightly better and most importantly can be used with the Gameboy Player, but I for one will not be buying them anytime soon


  6. Since it involves a digital signal, you'd need a little more than a magnifying glass to see what's going on. At minimum it would take capturing the digital signal, figuring out how the digital video data is formatted, and then designing an alternative circuit to process the data into the necessary analog signals for component video. That's assuming the digital signal isn't encrypted, which it likely is.

    This is pretty much it. I don't know all of the specifications, but I have heard that trying to "crack the code" of the GC component cables is like searching for needle in a haystack; essentially a game of guess and check. There is a company who has made an internal FPGA based solution that uses this digital video however.


  7.  

    There were some third party versions of that PSP component cable too. Don't know if there was ever such a source for the GC.

     

    There was not; that is why GC cables are $250+ and rising. The port on the GC is Digital and the Analogue to Digital circuit is in the cable. Nintendo never allowed anyone else to see the design for this circuit, so duplicating is an enormous challenge.


  8. Very glad I got my XRGB Mini in 2015; highly reccomend it. If you don't want to pay its high price but want a scaler box, you might want to follow the development of the OOSC, which was mentioned above. It's an open source project, so with some improvements, someday it could surpass the Framemeister in options and quality. Sad that it is being discontinued, Micomsoft did a really great job with it.

     

    As for the above CRT talk (disclaimer I haven't read all of it), I don't reccomend an HDCRT. It has digital processing, so there will be lag in SD games. As for HD games, a typical modern television with fixed pixels will be far better and I'm sure you already have one. For some comparison photos, I reccomend My Life in Gaming's CRT video (same channel mentioned above). If you want RGB quality on a CRT, go for a PVM or other professional monitor. The only other options for even remotely close quality on a non- professional CRT would be a European CRT with a SCART input (some top of the consumer line old models are avalible for cheap overseas if you live in Europe) or decent results from a SCART to component box.


  9. Looks like fixing this is going to have to wait at least a few days :(. I'm not going to have any time at all to do anything at all with it this weekend- I wasn't expecting the PVM to arrive until early next week. Also, I might be able to get a friend who knows much more about electronics (and how to be safe with them) than me to look at it shortly afterward. Until then it would be great if anyone else has any comments on their ideas or experiences with anything like this!


  10. The cable is just a regular plain old vanilla dirt common IEC power cord that quite honestly, I'm surprised you had to purchase! Probably have at least one laying around *somewhere* in your house. :P

     

    Anyway, I bet the power switch is toast. Should click in and stay in for power up. Push in again, hear a click and power goes off. Those types of power switches do break and what I've done in a pinch on Commodore monitors, is to simply bypass the switch and use a surge protector to turn it on/off. Should be obvious what leads to jump once you get at the switch and its wiring, but if not, post a pic here and one of us should be able to tell you what to do.

     

    BTW: convenient that the eBay seller didn't have a cord, huh? Gimme a break.

     

    Thanks for the reply! I guess I'm going to have to open it up and take a look. I probably will end up posting a pic here because honestly I don't know much about wiring. And yea, eBay... Love to hate it. But it's just the only way to get some things...


  11. I recently purchased a Sony PVM20-L2 off of eBay for a decent price, but there was one catch: the monitor didn't come with a power cord.

     

    I bought this cord off of amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00073FCNK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

     

    It seemed like it would do the job just fine and reviewers used it for similar purposes. I seem to remember the listing saying it was a 110v cord and the PVM accepts 100-240v, but I don't see that number on the amazon listing anywhere anymore, so either it was changed or I'm remembering wrong.

     

    I received the PVM today and the wire seems to fit into the AC in fine, but the monitor will not power on :(. I have no idea if it is the fault of the cable or the PVM being broken. Additionally, when I press the power button, it does not "spring back" when pressed again to turn it off as I presumed it would; instead the button has to be manually pulled out. Does anyone know if this intentional or if my power button is broken?

     

    Do any of you guys have any ideas as to whether the cable I bought should work, whether its the PVM's fault, whether the power button is functioning properly, or how I (as someone who has essentially no modding/electrical experience) could check to see if it is broken internally?

     

    Thank you!


  12. a few okay items this weekend

     

    This GBA lot was $7. The GBA on the right is an 001 model but the sound does not work. The other two GBA models are 101 and the screens are BRIGHT. They both work great.

     

    attachicon.gif100_2792.JPG

     

    The Wii and 3 games was $15, it seems to work great but I need a sensor bar and a remote/nunchuk controller pair. I would have passed except it is the original white model that can play GC games. The PS2 games and the GC power brick were .50 each.

     

    attachicon.gif100_2793.JPG

     

    The Halo game was $1 (missing the DVD unfortunately) and the figures were .50 each. The airwolf model was .50 also. Not pictured - I also got a box of Dualshock 2 controllers (3) and Gamecube controllers (2) for $3. All controllers worked great.

     

    attachicon.gif100_2794.JPG

     

     

    Great find with the AGS-101s! Good condition ones go for 80+ on their own easily. $7 for two of them? Incredible! :-o

    • Like 1

  13. Hi guys,

     

    Arcadeology@Arcadeology Aug 1

     

    Restoring this scratched #neogeo side art, almost finished! #arcade #retrogaming

     

     

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    Anthony...

    The top picture reminds me of the nature in which my MVS unit is scratched. Maybe someday I can restore it to the condition of the bottom one!

    • Like 1

  14. "Best offer" usually signifies a little bit less than the asking price, i.e. Offering $9,500 to see if the seller is willing to accept it and save a couple hundred on a large and expensive purchase. No one expects that a seller would do anything but laugh at an offer of $5,000 for a $10,000 game.

     

    Obviously you can price your games at whatever you want, this is just my opinion. Carry on :)

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