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turbofly

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About turbofly

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  1. I just did some reading on the Florian's Hardware Tester. I don't have a flash cart for the XE or a disk drive, or tape drive, so it looks like I can't use that at the moment. If I come across one of those items I'll definitely give it a try.
  2. Mathy, thanks for the suggestion. I'm confident that the gun is working fine though, as it works with my Atari 7800, just not with my XE. Anything is worth a try though at this point. Kheller2, thanks for checking I know some people try to use light guns on LCD TVs, but I did have the XE connected to a CRT TV when trying to use the light gun. It's a JVC D-series, AV-32D501.
  3. Hey everybody, Some time ago was lucky enough to get my hands on an Atari XE Game System. I cleaned it up and everything worked great, with the exception of the light gun. First I thought the problem was the gun, but I tested it with Crossbow on my 7800 and it worked fine. Then I thought maybe there's a problem with my Bug Hunt cart. I later got a copy of Barnyard Blaster for the XE and it still didn't work. So now I figure that the problem must be with the XE itself. Has anybody here had any issues with using the light gun on their XE, and if so did you figure out the issue? Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  4. Here are the numbers for my 2 units: AT 85 036821 - It has the expansion port, I've modded it with the Longhorn Engineer board, and it is compatible with the Starpath Supercharger. A1 78 5997744 - This one only has the hole for the expansion port. The slot is a different shape and doesn't work with non standard Atari carts like the Activision ones or the Supercharger.
  5. I'm interested in a set of these too, please put me on the list.
  6. I just got a Sears Intellivision, the Super Video Arcade. The circuit matrix looks to be the same one as in the Intellivision 1, the part # is 2609-9589. Anyway the lower portion of this circuit where the disk makes contact has a circle worn right through it. I would definitely be interested in 2 of the new ones if you make them, maybe even 4, spares are always good to have.
  7. I've had similar problems that were caused by the flip flop IC that is located near the power button. The IC is a CD4013, console5.com sells them. First I had thought that the IC was bad so I bought some, but as I looked at things further I found that the IC wasn't making good contact with the mainboard. It connects to traces on both sides or the mainboard. The ICs on my 5200 are all socketed, I removed and then re-soldered the socket. I think that all of the flexing I did to the board when I was taking it out of the case and putting it back in, (for cleaning and modding), must have cracked the solder around the socket. After re-seating the socket the graphical glitches went away, as well as the problem I was having with the power not turning off. Might be something to check, good luck with it.
  8. I've got 2 glossy finish 4 ports: (S-video and power modded) SV-512 051981 (Power modded, not working, needs a Sally chip, can't find one) SV-462 0177098 The mods were done by me.
  9. Hey guys, Just before the last 2 replies I got another 5200. I was actually trying to get my hands on an XEGS. I found and won an auction on ebay that included an XEGS, a 7800, a 4 port 5200, and a 2600 jr. All untested and with out cords. I found another auction for a new XEGS power supply, and when I got the packages the XEGS worked perfectly. The 7800 did not. I new tact power switch and cart slot cleaning and I now have a second working 7800. The 2600 jr had a bad power switch too, I took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts and was back in business. As for the 5200 I cleaned it up and prepped it for the power mod. I was lucky and enough to get a second Sunny Vale unit with all of the ICs socketed. I got the packages late Friday and so I have to wait until Monday for the electronics part store to open to get the stuff I need for the power mod. After I had the other 3 systems up and running and the new 5200 ready for the power mod, I looked and saw that zylon and CrossBow had posted some new replies to this post. At this point I figured that I would be taking CrossBow's advice and moving on to another 5200, and maybe continuing to work on the other system as I had time. (I hate to leave things once I've started to repair them, I need to see them through. A little OCD perhaps). Waiting for Monday and the OCD got the better of me and I decided to pull the flip flop socket, (on the problem 5200), and look for broken traces of some other issue. when I got the socket off I couldn't see any glaring problems. I drew a diagram of the traces under the socket, thinking I would solder on new wire connections on the bottom of the board, (in case the traces were bad and I just couldn't see it). I then re-installed the socket, and slotted a flip flop. I starred at it for a minute wishing I knew what the F was wrong with it, and then for the hell of it I plugged it in. The power light did not come on. I pushed the power button and the system started up and when I pushed the button again it actually powered off. A few more tries and the 5200 continued to function like it is supposed to. I played some River Raid and Moon Patrol, no issues. I put the system back in the RF shielding and case, and it's still working great. All I can conclude is that I must have had a cold joint between the socket and the board, (I probably broke it taking the board out of the case, like zylon said "over-zealous when prying the board up off the locating pins"). The funny thing is that I had previously reflowed all of the pins on the socket while troubleshooting, and it didn't help. Anyway, thanks for the help to all those who replied. It looks like I have some video modding to do now, (gotta ditch the RF).
  10. Hi CrossBow, I had already replaced one of the MJE201 transistors, and after reading your post I decided to replace the other. I had an extra as I bought 2 of them when I replaced the first one. There's no change. I then started looking around for these diode looking capacitors you mentioned. I found a number of black tube shaped components on the board, there is no line like what you'd find on a diode but one end shows what looks like a white epoxy where the lead comes out. L12 is silkscreened on the board beside one of them, and since most of the capacitors have a C and a number, I'm not sure if those are what you are talking about. None of those appear to be damaged. Like to 7800 you described, my 5200 has power whether the 4013 is in the socket or not. The power light comes on and kinda flickers but the screen stays black. With the 4013 socketed if I flex the board near it I get graphical corruption. If I move it just right I can actually play a game for a little while. I wonder if there anything under the socket that is shorting, that shouldn't be. I'm trying to decide if it is worth de-soldering the socket and looking underneath it. Do you have a picture of what the diode looking capacitors look like? Also how did you determine that it was bad, was it puffed out or blackened, or did you check it with a multi-meter? If you checked it with a multi-meter, where you able to do so in the circuit or did you have to de-solder it to check it? Thanks.
  11. Hey xylon, I've been super busy lately and haven't had a chance to get to the 5200. I had a really good look at both sides of the board last night with the shielding off and my illuminated magnifier on. I didn't find anything that is touching that shouldn't be. I also tried using the 5200 without the shielding to see if it was touching that somewhere. There was no improvement. So far I've only done the power mod and haven't touched the RF box on the board. I was thinking that maybe the momentary switch, (used for the power button), may have failed in a way that left it in an always connected state. However I've since checked that with my multi-meter and that's not the case. I'm wondering if one the capacitors I used to do the power mod might be the problem. When I went to the electronics store they didn't have the ceramic capacitor that I needed in stock to buy new. But they did have old one there that they gave me. (It's labelled 104 and below that Y5T, I don't know what the Y5T means). I know that capacitor is there as a filter, if it is junk could that be causing the problem? Thanks.
  12. Hi zylon, Thanks for the reply. I had a look at that pad, on both sides of the board and it looks pretty clean on my board, and doesn't appear to be contacting the trace. I powered the 5200 up and tried flexing the board, it didn't help with the always on power issue, and it seemed to shorten the game play time before graphical corruption. Worth a try though, keep the ideas coming please. The thing about this system is that I bought it from Ebay not working and without the adaptor or automatic switch box. I soon found an adaptor and then decided to do the power mod and eliminate the need for the switch box. After that I cleaned the case, the board and the cartridge slot, I plugged in a game and it fired up no problem. The power button would turn the system off and on like it should. Then I was having controller issues so I started plugging and unplugging the controller, (I thought maybe the port pins or the plug might be oxidized and this might scrap them clean). At this point I noticed that the power light was flickering and shortly thereafter the power was on continuously. I thought that the 4013 must have went bad and replaced it and it made no difference. That's when I reached out to Brad at Best Electronics and you guys on the forum. So I don't know if the system had this issue previously, or if I inadvertently did something to it when I did the power mod or when I was plugging and unplugging the controller. What puzzles me the most is how the system can power on even without a 4013 slotted. I think what ever is causing that is the root of the problem.
  13. Hello Henry Lee, Thanks for the reply. I've already managed to fix my controller issue with some help from Brad at Best Electronics. He had correctly guessed that I had a damaged transistor on the lower right hand corner of the mainboard. Just below the calibration potentiometer discussed in the video you linked. All I have left to diagnose and repair is what ever is causing my power issues, so if you have any ideas about that keep 'em coming.
  14. Hello Mitch and thanks for the reply. I have a manual called the CX 5200 Field Service Manual, if that's the same service manual you mean, then yes I've had a look through it. Nothing there seems to cover my power issue. The closest thing I can find is in the section for the 4 port Diagnostic Flowchart that is for Warped Ragged Picture Troubleshooting. It kind of fits as I do get graphical corruption after a short while of game play. I read the flowchart but haven't yet done the testing there. Looks like this will be my next step. If you are talking about another manual please let me know where to find it. Thanks.
  15. Update #2. I tested the 2 MJE210 transistors and one was bad. I've replaced it, and no change. I then went back to the 4013 flip flop and noticed that the socket the chip sits in looked pretty badly oxidized, so I cleaned it up, still no change. In all honesty I didn't expect it would help as the 5200 powers on as soon as I plug it in even without a 4013 being seated in the socket. It seems that another component is bad and is sending power to the system past the 4013 somehow. I could live with a 5200 that is stuck on, if not for the graphical corruption and freeze ups that happen shortly after starting to play a game. Anyway, I see that almost 100 of you have read my posts, and I know from reading other posts that the people here really know the 5200. I'm out of ideas, if anybody has any suggestions I'm all ears and would appreciate the help. Thanks.
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