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Up is Brown, pin1 to gray. So pin 9 on the 74ls541 I believe.

Man, that and an internal RGB to HDMI adapter, and we're off to the races!..

https://www.atarimax.com/colecosd/documentation/ one place I know of...

It could be your powersupply or it could be something else dragging down your 12v line. A crude method would be, to turn it on wait for a few seconds then touch the video ram chips and see if one is hotter than the others. you can then start disconnecting chips from the 12v rail till your voltage stabilizes.

Very Cool!, even fits in a pi case...

Grease is what likely causes the issue in the first place. 40 year old technology.. It holds onto dirt and dust and causes poor connection. Clean the contacts really well with Iso-alcohol, then add a contact stabilizer... It prevents oxidation and "enhances" connection, and doesnt attract dirt dust etc. This stuff is very good and used in aero-space industry... Deox-it makes some good stuff too. http://www.be-electronics.com/product_p/stabilant22a.htm

They are ancient... They are rated by color codes. PAL is prob different from NTSC check here... If you desolder it you can measure it too. http://www.vishay.com/inductors/color-code-calculator/

So, first off.. it's a PAL Coleco. I don't know too much about those. You can test the VDP, but odds are your getting a signal. (Based on you screen shot.) Is the a tuneable slug/inductor in the modulator? For channel freq. The part you have circled is an old shcool inductor. ​

Just to add to the guide, When I do this, I don't attempt to squeeze the y part together. It's much simpler to bend it out sideways/perpendicular then to get it realigned later. As a matter of fact, All I ever unsolder is one of the outside ground points bend the 4 "y"'s out and the switch can be disassembled and cleaned very easily. Much less soldering / desoldering. ​ ​

​Not trying to throw water on this, but the FPGA work might be a duplicate of the Zimba 3000? I believe Kevtris already has a core made... http://atariage.com/forums/topic/242970-fpga-based-videogame-system/ ​ ​

For a 100% test, yes it should be removed. However if it's shorted, or open you can find that with it in the circuit. Test each one of them, compare them to each other, both forwards and backwards, you then only need to pull the outliers. For the pen, I find this one works well. It bonds to the mylar well. Using a flashlight from the back can show broken traces. http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/pens/silver-conductive-8420-p

The controllers are drop dead simple. If you have a wiring diagram, thats all you need. **Note, most diagrams out there have the diodes labeled backwards** Most multimeters have a diode tester, I've yet to see a diode go bad. Most of the time, it's the "leaf" spring contacts or fire button that are having issues. I find cleaning them, etc usually works. I tear a very small strip of 600 sand paper, and pull it through the connection, once up and once down.​ ​ The biggest issue is the cords. You say you tested it, I find most are broken right beside the rectangular block. Most often it's an intermittent connection. It comes from them being yanked out of the socket by the cord. The other big issue is the push on connection to the PCB, they usually oxidize, I usually add some solder and attach them directly to the board. If you have a multimeter and a soldering iron, you can fix the controller. The keypad?... it's another story. (then your into silver conductive pens, etc... ) ​

Do you have a pic of the mod? Do you have a pic of the Systemboard with mod installed?

​Just a shot in the dark here, but I think if your getting signal on Ch1, in Belgium, your on different broadcast frequencies for your channels. Soo, that means your RF is most likely working fine, if you do the composite mod it should work. It's like trying to get a Japanese Famicom to work in North America, it can be done, but easier to do composite, vs an RF channel shift. I caution on using the Transistor mod, and recommend the LM318 one, the transistor can have a very short lifespan. Good luck. ​

Ok, Let me jump on this band wagon! ​I just started playing with this emulator on a Pi3... It's AWESOME! I'm a complete NOOB with pi, but I installed Retropie, and then added coolcv from the addons listing and BOOM it was working! This thing is the best thing since sliced bread. The pi is small, portable, and just plain awesome to have all your favorite games in one place. ​ As it's been brought up here a few times, I too am struggling with key mapping on the pi. This has been the most difficult part of the whole install. ​The keyboard works just fine. I'm trying to set up, a USB controller and NES 8bitdo. In emulation station it refers to some controls as (axis 1-) etc, rather than a joy0_0 button I'm not sure how to re-map this. I too use NES, SNES etc and like the sel/start to exit. I haven't found a way to map 2 buttons together to exit. However I'm sure I'll get this dialed in time. ​ Thanks Nanochess your the MAN! Keep up the awesome work. ​

Some really good advice given to me was use the Coleco frogger game. Your right, the test with exp mod 1 proves RF circuit. Coleco frogger, since it plays music, right from the get go, will allow you to diagnose either CPU, reset, Sram, controls etc, OR Vram/VDP. If you get sound but no pic, then its Vram/VDP, no sound, and your on to CPU clock, etc. ​If you Vram is socketed, it might just need to be reseated. Good luck. ​

From the looks of it, I'd say ram failure. https://console5.com/store/colecovision-5v-memory-upgrade-kit.html ​

You should couple this with your SNES project and create a Coleco HDMI board. The ADV7181 and ADV7513 both look like interesting devices.... ​

I agree it's terribly inefficient. BTW we do agree on making 12v from 5. I believe the most durable console out there is the NES. Look at the power input circuit. You can feed it almost anything, and people do. The coleco with it's funny RAM is one of the least durable. If you have a barrel input, to the console, expecting a regulated input, what happens when someone plugs in something that doesnt belong? I know its user error, but why make the same mistakes? I also agree its fantastic work. This will hopefully preserve a few more consoles for future gamers. They're not making em anymore.

I really like this Idea! If it were me, I'd add a spot for 2 x 7805's (TO-220) for input power regulation, (I know, old school) and a 5 to 12v DC-DC converter (simple 4 holes on board) tied to 12v pin on the expansion slot. ​So you could have the possibility of running the whole shebang from one 9-15v powersupply. ​Nice thing is, it could be put on the board and not populated unless the user wanted to enable it, to keep costs down. ​ ​ ​ ​ ​

WOW! OMG thanks dude. I went to "prove" that I did in fact check to the end of the pin, I knew that I checked the traces, to the db9 pin on the board. INSIDE the DB9 connector all the rear pins were broken. Too weird, but I now have it going. Thanks!

Yes tried a different controller, no the paddles dont work either.

So, my problem... Atari 2600 4 switch.Rev 12 board. I can NOT get the controller ports to work. The fire button works, but all the directions do not. At first I thought this was a RIOT issue and swapped with a known good working one. Still doesnt work. Swapped the processor and TIA with the same result. The chips work fine on a different board but refuse to work on this one. I have ohm'd out the pins from the controller ports to the riot, they are ok. Power and Ground are present at the port too... I've also checked address and data line traces, they seem fine too. So... Any ideas?

Looking for a Telegames personal arcade. AKA Coleco Dina....

yes