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Everything posted by Thomas Jentzsch
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In my idea Y would be %0000xx00 ^ %0000XX00. You would still need a 16 byte table, but only 4 bytes are used. But I think my code has a bug anyway. I guess I have to code and test.
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BTW: I don't know nothing about the 7800, but I wonder how the whole loop is integrated. Is this the main loop which gets frequently interrupted by the DMA. How much CPU time does this cost? So how many loops will happen?
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You could load X with TIMEOFFSET-1 and then 'cpx INTIM, bcc driving0updateloop' Or you load the timer with +$80 and do 'bit INTIM, bmi driving0updateloop'. That way you don't have to catch 0.
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I think your limitations leave little room for improvements. And our code seems not to fit into the limitations. So probably we have to come up with something new. Here is an idea (completely untested): lda SWCHA ; 4 ASR #%00110000 ; 2 Undocumented. A = A & #IMM, then LSR A. lsr ; 2 tay ; 2 Y = 0, 4, 8, 12 eor mousecodex0 ; 3 sty mousecodex0 ; 3 tay ; 2 Y = 0, 4, 8, 12 lda rotationalcompare,y ; 4 adc mousex0 ; 3 carry still clear via previous mask+LSR sta mousex0 ; 3 = 28 This would save 2 cycles. The first 'tay' could be optimized away too if you invest another byte of RAM (mousecodex1) and alternate code.
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Maybe you are looking at the wrong code. The code we used in our hacks doesn't use these assumptions.
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Sorry, I don't get this. What do you mean with -ve and +ve, what do you want to track instead?
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Probably you are looking at the wrong code (or I don't get you). Agreed. I found that you need at least 10 samples/frame. And more than 20 is usually overkill.
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Have you seen OmegaMatrix and my discussion about optimal trackball code? It started around here. Your code is 30 cycles, we sure can do better.
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Looks like this does use Gray Codes like a track ball or the driving controller, correct? BTW: Can you explain your code a bit and post the tables used too, please?
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True.
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Have you been using the same power supply at both locations?
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Maybe John wants to correct this now. But what would it say?
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That's what old multicards did too. Therefore I suppose each stage is basically a separate ROM (with a bit of data transferred).
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https://docs.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/win32/api/winbase/nf-winbase-getcommmodemstatus says: MS_CTS_ON 0x0010 The CTS (clear-to-send) signal is on.
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Couldn't we autodetect which is correct?
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Your digital TV has problems handling the odd signal. You would need a version which displays a correct NTSC signal. Which does not exist. Or a CRT.
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Right, but at NTSC the colors are all wrong.
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ZeroPage Homebrew Twitch Stream
Thomas Jentzsch replied to ZeroPage Homebrew's topic in Homebrew Discussion
Too bad. -
ZeroPage Homebrew Twitch Stream
Thomas Jentzsch replied to ZeroPage Homebrew's topic in Homebrew Discussion
James, you should copyright "Rage Reset". -
ZeroPage Homebrew Twitch Stream
Thomas Jentzsch replied to ZeroPage Homebrew's topic in Homebrew Discussion
Yup, that's where I got the idea from. -
ZeroPage Homebrew Twitch Stream
Thomas Jentzsch replied to ZeroPage Homebrew's topic in Homebrew Discussion
The scratches angle is a bit too horizontal to work. -
Stella 6 on the R77: the eagle is landing
Thomas Jentzsch replied to DirtyHairy's topic in Atari 2600
Ah, you mean the lights are still flashing. That's OK, your USB ports are still getting power. I don't know anything about the Hyperkin splitter, sorry. -
Stella 6 on the R77: the eagle is landing
Thomas Jentzsch replied to DirtyHairy's topic in Atari 2600
No. I never had to reflash my daptor yet. ? Only you do not want to use the front port of the R77. These work fine for joysticks. Or if you you want more than 2 players using Atari's paddles. No, no hub required. That I cannot answer. -
Atari RGB Light Sixer Repair
Thomas Jentzsch replied to ZeroPage Homebrew's topic in ZeroPage Homebrew's Discussion
James mentioned in last night's show it is even in Vancouver now. -
ZeroPage Homebrew Twitch Stream
Thomas Jentzsch replied to ZeroPage Homebrew's topic in Homebrew Discussion
I cannot draw but I got an idea for a "rage reset" graphics which fits to the show: Draw the reset switch and put some deep (cat) scratches around. You get the idea. I am sure @Nathan Strum can come up with something much nicer.
