ultrasteve

Thanks for all of the replies. Just took delivery of the 800 today so I'll unpack it all and try it out!

Hi all. Am I right in thinking that the Atari 800 and 1050 use the same power supply? I bought one of these for powering my 1050 (works like a charm). Is it suitable for a PAL Atari 800? http://www.rock-gear.de/en/Guitar/Effects/Power-Supplies/Single-Power-Supplies/Rockpower-NT-8-EU.html?cur=1&lang=1 9V AC / 2.100 mA Stabilized voltage Input: 230 V

Sorry for not taking part in this round. A herniated disc in my back has put me out of action

Yes, exactly those symptoms. I took it apart again, reseated the rubber and LED, and cleaned off the contacts on the mylar where the Start button presses, and it is working now - do you think it was just something on the contact or trace? It was a brand new out-of-the-packet Mylar from Best. EDIT: I'd only put the four corner screws in to the keyboard backplate when I tested it. I've just put the rest in and I'm back to the Start button being pressed problem. Something must be touching those contacts? EDIT 2: Undid screws around option keys, tried again, worked fine. Left connector cable in place, did screws up, worked fine. Maybe it's just a dodgy edge connector - it is VERY tight to put in. I any case, it all seems to be working, so this will stay as my spare, or possibly make its way into my 65XE.

I did exactly that, scavenged some contacts from an old joypad. BUT - using a brand new mylar that I got from Best Electronics, either with or without the LED and rubber in place, when I turn the 130XE on I get a blue screen and a single, high pitched beep, a rectangular cursor block, and nothing else. I've seated and reseated the connector multiple times, sometimes I get a totally garbled display, but most times as above. Does that point to a defective mylar?! Confirmed the 130XE working fine with the new old stock keyboard, so I know it's not a problem with the machine.

Oh, great idea, thanks! I'm sure I've got a remote control kicking about that is broken - I didn't even think of that, thanks!

Yes, I have those in my 130XE keyboard. So is it imperative that I use those to avoid scratching the traces?

OK, cool, thanks! The one in my 130XE was just touching the traces, so maybe that's how they were mad?! I'll fit one in and see what happens! Thanks for your help, I'll post back when I've tried it out.

Ah, got you. OK. But when I say an XEGS keyboard, I mean the keys and mylar that live within the housing, so the mylar connector would still be going direct to the 130XE motherboard. I may have confused things by mentioning that it came from an XEGS - I believe it to be the same keyboard, it just doesn't have the Option keycaps, but I can transfer them from my 130XE anyway. I've attached a picture of the back of the keyboard with mylar intact, and one of the gap where the LED goes. So my original question stands I guess, could I put an LED into this gap, and if so, what kind/voltage etc. does it need to be.

So you're saying the Mylars in them are different too?

I took my 130XE keyboard apart this morning. The connector on the mylar is a bit knackered, so I'm going to ditch it. The LED is not soldered to anything, is that right?! The legs have two rubber grommets on them, which look as if they just touch on to the contacts of the mylar. Are the legs of the LED touching the tracks on the mylar how it gets its power?! This new old stock XEGS keyboard is what I'm going to use on my 130XE. The case has the two insets for the rubber grommet things, but are they there just to hold the legs of the LED? If so, I guess I could use two tiny blobs of Sugru to do the same thing. But what kind of LED do I need (power, etc.). Thanks for all of your help.

A tough vote with 3 of my suggestions in there, but it has a special place in my heart, so I've gone for Gyruss!

Improved my Getaway ranking to 'Dangerous Type' but with a slightly lower score of 6430 (previous post shows my high of 6500). Managed to beat my Kaverns of KFest score, too. Up to 45584 now. This is seriously addictive!

A slight improvement for me. Crafty Crook, 6500.

Buck Rogers Planet of Zoom!

Two reasons why I'm not going to be so good at Getaway! 1) I lack the patience for a methodical approach to a game like this. 2) Time - definitely the sort of game you need a lot of that to rack up a high score with. Very enjoyable though - but am I right in saying that once the police are on your tail it's almost impossible to shake them off? Anyway, first go (and only, so far) - Rookie Robber - 3370 (and annoyingly, 560 not banked!) And then Kaverns of KFest. Loved it! Twitch gaming at its finest. My weapon of choice was a Quickshot II Turbo. Definitely prefer a microswitch for this kind of game. Two runs, and a high of 36052.

A bit late to the party with this one, but boy am I glad I played it. It's a lot of fun, if infuriating at times! I seriously wanted to rage-quit a couple of those tracks Really enjoyed it though, and kudos to the track crafters! I did at least 3 laps on each track (and many more on the really short ones!). These were my best times: Track 1 - 01:09:4 Track 2 - 01:16:7 Track 3 - 00:13:8 Track 4 - 00:55:2 Track 5 - 00:34:4 Track 6 - 00:29:7 Track 7 - 00:29:4 Track 8 - 00:33:9 Track 9 - 00:41:7 Track 10 - 00:54:4 Track 11 - 00:05:0 (I just could NOT crack 5 seconds!) Track 12 - 01:22:6 Track 13 - 01:04:1 Track 14 - 00:56:7 Track 15 - 00:47:2 Track 16 - 00:32:5 Track 17 - 00:27:8 Just one of my times:

Just managed to make it to 9000 miles!

Well, that was a lot of fun! Just spent a good hour on it. Twitch gaming at its finest in some of the later caverns! I managed to clear 7000 miles. Are we counting 500s if you make it to the colour-change break in each level? If so, I got to 7500!

No apology needed - no rush on my part - you're doing a huge favour for the community

That would be awesome, thanks! And great tip - I'll wait for your guide before I have a look at mine again.

Just completed D and E on main game. I have to admit, as Round 1 was my first entry into the HSC, I'm a little confused with this game and the scoring, and the 'proof' that levels have been completed. I'm a beginner, completed A-C, and then skipped to D and completed that and E, then lost all of my lives. Am I doing that right? I posted photos for my previous completions, and scores in Super Pac-Man, but is this just an 'on trust' thing?!

Oooof. Not enjoying this one much - probably one of my least favourite game styles! Still had 30 minutes play and finished A, B and C!

Main Mr Robot game. Just screen A on my first ever go of the game! I'll play it a bit more later, hopefully.

1st Stage in 1 man: 4260 Overall: 49210