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shoestring

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About shoestring

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    Male
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    Sydney
  • Interests
    C64, Apple, A8 & Amiga junkie. Video game & electronic repairs, homebrew dev (arcade diagnostics software), guitar & music.

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  1. I had the opposite problem with the same result as expected. NTSC 800 and a Commodore 1084S-P1 ( PAL ). So a black and white picture is normal. To solve this I use a Sony PVM 9", which handles both NTSC and PAL.
  2. The ones I've seen all look like re-branded PALs. The ones I have in-front of me are MMI re-branded with c061618 instead of PAL16XXX with date codes around 83. GALs weren't introduced until 1985 but you might be able to find one in an XE? And here is one manufactured by National Semiconductor.
  3. You can probe VCC which is pin 8 of the CPU. Ideally, it and other chips should measure as close to 5 volts as possible with the machine powered on. It’s perfectly normal to have a small voltage drop when the power supply is under some load. But too much of a drop say below 4.65v and your machine will start to act up and do unpredictable things or do nothing at all. Im not sure what that is, it doesn’t look factory to me. Maybe someone else can confirm.
  4. Depending on the version, you may need to bin it. What does +5v measure under "load" from inside the machine at one of the rails or chips ? If the power supply is good and you're not even getting a valid video signal to the monitor then most likely the cpu is not even running and all you have is power to it. Possibilities are bad clock circuit , dead short somewhere or bad psu (underpowered ). The problem is, completely dead machines can hide many faults, so it's not always going to be down to 1 specific problem and could be a combination of things especially if the machine has been previously worked on.
  5. @Jangle You say there's no image. Do you get a black screen or a blank screen ? What power supply are you using ?
  6. No worries. I'm sure the video will help make things clear. It might seem trivial, but just to re-iterate how important the above step is if you use the internal method and want a clear picture. I left it out at first and my display had vertical banding. There are two ground wires that go to the vertical block, I think the important ground is the one for video ( the black wire ). I soldered the black and blue wire together then connected both to gnd pin of C176, I also grounded the shielded wire for good measure.
  7. That is similar to two ( 240v versions with Atari embossed logo ) I've seen that came with my 65xe and were both non repairable.
  8. This is exactly how i did mine as well. Here's a reference to the Jurgen's original post with the suggestion.
  9. Perhaps bug fixes, but I've also been playing happily for months with no issues.
  10. A genuine Sony PSP-100 charger are good for 5v @ 2a, a great "backup" supply for your XE/XL. I say backup because these also don't produce as clean power as a linear transformer ( as mentioned above ) but it's still pretty good if you don't have anything else.
  11. I get the same "reddish" tint on my 800 plugged into the LCD but it looks fantastic on my Sony PVM and other CRTs.
  12. http://www.indieretronews.com/2020/03/wormhole-gorgeous-c64-game-published.html
  13. If you can't get the spray, make a mixture. Make some graphite shavings with a razor, combine them with a solution of isopropyl until you get a thick paste. Paint the mixture onto each plunger, works very well.
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