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About kheller2

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  • Birthday 01/06/1972

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  1. The slow BOOT is because its actually trying to read data and waiting for the drive (so XE <->1050 comms are good). The fast boot error happens when one of the comm chips is shot, or you leave the drive door open). So... sounds like we have a read issue right now.
  2. Let's go back to basics... do you have a known working single density bootable disk? Let's focus on the 1050 and booting.
  3. Open it. Unplug keyboard. Quiet. 🙃 Let us know what version you have.
  4. Thanks Allan. I already had yours in the table. But I'll take your horrible mac if don't want it.
  5. I don't see pin 25 out of the socket on the FDC. (I'm going to get hit for that). So, have you put all the original chips back in, and you don't have another 1050 right?
  6. I would expect pulses too... if it got that far into the code, which it isn't. I'm also assuming that the track zero sensor, is always showing continuity unless broken by the head (which would explain why unplugging it lies to the OS). This makes me want to re-write some of the 1050 code and have a diagnostic ROM to flash the activity light as to what component is at fault. Maybe some day. I'll toy with one of my 1050s tonight during a hockey game to see if what has been stated here is 100% accurate. You do have the mech plugged in correctly (remember, one of the connectors is backwards from the other for a Tandon)? Perhaps a picture of the top and bottom of your board too.
  7. yes. This isn't a modified drive correct? It's just a stock Tandon mech unit? The failure is probably with one of these chips: 6532 279x ROM - (Checksum failure, I doubt that, but you should probably put the original ROM back in) RAM
  8. Alright folks... we are just 9 units away from having 500 in the database. I think that is pretty darn amazing! Come on .. nine more!!!
  9. If you unplug the stepper and track zero, on a good drive I think it was mentioned it would pass POST.
  10. it has been a while since i dug into the source code on the 1050, and the service guide for the step feels like it contradicts what the code is doing.. but I'm rusty. There is a pull back test and if it doesn't find T0 after so many steps it bombs. Also, Mark did say that the stepper did do the stroke thing once. Mark where are you located? I almost feel like sending you parts to swap around to end this painful fix.
  11. Maybe I missed it but has someone verified that the 2 second motor on/off pattern occurs when you pull the stepper connection? I didn't think the 1050 OS checked for a faulty stepper on POST. Or does it... PORT A PORT B FDC PULL Head back ROM Checksum RAM TEST If any of those fails, it does the 2 second warning. It would have been nice if it varied the cycle by the condition.
  12. I thought this would be an interesting and education thread to start about the dumb things one does when working on Atari's. This isn't meant to be a bashing session, its meant to be a somewhat sympathetic thread and to show that we all make mistakes -- even face palm ones. I'll start with something that i just did this past week! So, I'm working on upgrading some 600XLs to 64K. It is a rather simple upgrade (2 wires, a jumper and 2 ram chips). Well, in my haste to make something sexy vs functional I thought I could alleviate said wires on the chip side by just cutting some ground traces to the pins on the solder side and running the two wires needed there. Off I go cutting away with a model knife and test away with the meter. Odd thing is one of the two pins I have to isolate from ground still is connected to ground! How can this be? So I grind away more. Still no progress. I then get out the Dremel and grind that thing deep. It is still connected to ground even though I've completely gouged a hole between the pin and the original ground trace. And then I wonder... Is there something on the socket side under the chips and socket? Yeah .. dumb me. It is then that I noticed that Atari used some of the grounded pins I was isolating to continue ground on the chip side, even suppling ground to a few other chips! So I just completely broke this thing. It is an easy fix, but instead of my having a sexy board, it now has to have those original wires I didn't want on the top side, and now two bridge lines on the bottom to fix what I wrecked. Note to self: Always check the top side for hidden traces. I normally do, but for some reason I just didn't this time and it bit me.
  13. I think you would need to decide if the project is to build a drop in replacement for 130XE cases using a better quality board. If 130XE bare boards were available that were of good quality, I can see a few people actually building them out with proper sockets, etc. in order to make them primary systems. Although, I don't see a lot of folks removing components from a bad 130XE board just to drop back into the same new 130XE board. If the goal is to re-design the 130XE board so it can handle all the drop-in upgrades that are out there, that is a different direction. The fellow who re-did the 800XL board has me thinking of the using the final 800XLF design, the first 130XE design (128K 800XLF), and using the 4 RAM chip design from the later 130XEs (more space, extra Pokey) to build a drop in 800XL board replacement. Sure, it would make sense to redesign the whole thing and use newer components, SRAM, etc.. but thats what the 1088 designs are. I digress.
  14. What does the RF output do, is it squirrelly? So after you installed the UAV, everything went south? Check the voltage of the power supply? Get a can of compressed air and start cooling down chips until the problem vanishes.
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