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kheller2

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Everything posted by kheller2

  1. I do recall them asking if you had a ROM or EPROM (and the WST's are always EPROM)
  2. Are you using a proper DOS 2.5 image to boot from? Just seems odd that the directory structure would be gone....
  3. That's why you remove the socket too and just jumper the holes
  4. I noticed that a trace on the eBay boards had been cut, i measured it out on mine and it is also cut (but I just can't see it since its under these wonderful sockets). Again, I'm leaning toward their being something wrong with your chips, the eprom, something at this point. Does it require a 6502B? All my chips are scrubbed.
  5. I’ve confirmed on mine that jumpering the way you have will do one ROM or the other. You tried both positions and have the 1050 ROM installed? You validate each chip works on the expansion board?
  6. The left switch is ROM, the right is write protect. On the left switch you can see it toggles the blue to grey or yellow. I'm not sure if Purple is +5 or GND and is used for the LEDs. Blue also ties into the LEDs in one position or the other. The left switch has a solder bridge across the middle two pins tying blue to both poles (one for the ROM selection, one to light the LED). Hard to explain without a diagram This thing is fragile and tiny to my eyes. Just connecting blue to grey or yellow should work (I think). See previous post about numbering.
  7. Um, not like that. And that might have been bad. Starting from the RIGHT, let's call them 1-8. So the second pin from the RIGHT is #2 (i'm just making this numbering up) #2 should connect to #6 or #7 (which picks onboard vs expansion ROM)
  8. If you are using the ROM I dumped, then maybe the ROM switch is important to operation. Guess we need to figure that out. edit: so yes if that header is unplugged on my board I get nothing (except power light). edit edit: using my wire colors, blue+yellow is one position and blue+grey is the other. edit edit edit: I’ll try to get some time to draw up the switch wiring since it also goes into the write protect.
  9. Couple of things. I have not connected this to an Atari and tested it yet, however, I can say on powering up the drive the switch next to the power switch seems to flip between two different ROMs (the red timeout is 3 seconds vs 7 seconds). Also, mine still has the original eprom installed on the board and that R83? wire, seems to be /OE for the 1050ROM. Make sure your 1050 is setup for ROM vs EPROM. I'm not sure which setting is correct so I'll send you a pic of mine.
  10. What display device are you using, and does it work with any Atari you’ve tried?
  11. hmm I just realized that the 1450XLD bottom plastic is probably slightly different for the TONG vs 1450XL motherboard (the color POT hole seems to be in a different location).
  12. 1400XL vs 1450XLD(tong) Footprint pic: Case comparison pics:
  13. X . Y . Z where xyz meet is the front left bottom. 😇
  14. The 1400XL would be identical to the 1200XL in size, the 1450XLD would be just the biggest thing ever.
  15. Doubtful, I have one and it looks nothing like this one. I don't think I've seen a "happy" clone that looks like this before.
  16. Do we have pics or some info on manufacture dates?
  17. Perhaps I missed something but were there XF551s that used the internal 8050 ROM?!?!
  18. AH okay.. I'll have to fix that back to eBay owner.
  19. SHUT MY MOUTH! That is a lot of 1200XL love. You have 20 now? I especially like the 012345 serial.
  20. If you have a multimeter, you can test the cable wiring to see what jack is what. I don't see a diagram showing which pins go to which jacks, and given that most 5 pin DINs are wired differently...
  21. Well, I’ll see your xc12 and raise you a BASIC cart.
  22. Isn’t there one of these at some video history museum, with all the other 1090 boards and a 1450XLD?
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