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About Daedalus2097

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    Glasgow, Scotland
  1. Yep, I would second that - the SD card could well be messed up. Try reimaging it. I'm not really familiar with the hardware myself, have used it a few times but that's it. I can't see it being much different to a Raspberry Pi though, and usually these sorts of issues are easiest solved using a fresh drive image.
  2. I know most people on here appear to be over the far side of the Atlantic, but if you happen to be in Ireland this weekend, there's a big Amiga show happening in Athlone. Amiga Ireland put on a two-day event every year, and this year's show is shaping up to be the biggest one yet (in fact, it grew too big for the largest room in the hotel that has hosted it up until now), with lots going on across both days. There are workshops on development, music making, pixel art and more, gaming competitions, creative competition, the obligatory demo party on the Friday night, and special guest speakers including Dave Haynie, Trevor Dickinson, David Pleasance and more. The event is being held in the Sheraton Hotel, Athlone, and opens at 1pm on Friday 17th. Tickets and more details are available here: http://amigausers.ie/ Short notice I know, but if you're at a loose end in Ireland, drop in!
  3. I've been using a Raspberry Pi supply on my 800XL with a Biggus Dickus attached too for a while and that's been working perfectly - no sign of any interference or anything, though I did replace the capacitors in the 800XL when I was fixing it up so that might have helped combat any potential noise. One other thing that's worth looking at is the connections themselves - the DIN socket on the motherboard, and the DIN plug if you're reusing an original PSU one, could have loose or tarnished contacts which present an increased resistance on the 5V rail. The effect of such a resistance is to introduce a voltage drop that increases as the power draw increases. With the original PSU providing the correct voltage this is less likely, though it's still worth looking at in case there are surface or mechanical differences between the two DIN plugs used (e.g., pin diameter slightly smaller, pins on original PSI slightly bent to increase contact pressure...) Aside from that, the length and thickness (well, cross-sectional area) of the cable will also contribute a resistance to the circuit. It's possible that a long, thin USB cable simply presents too much resistance to carry that much current. For example, a resistance of just 0.25 ohms in the cable will give you a voltage drop of 1V over a cable at 2A (since the resistance also counts on the ground return).
  4. I know most of the thread is old, but regarding Goteks, it's worth looking into FlashFloppy, which is an alternative firmware developed for Gotek drives and their clones. It supports a lot of more advanced hardware options like LCD and OLED displays, rotary encoders for image selection, etc. It also supports many different image formats including .ATR, and supports different densities as required. I've no idea if it would work to replace an Atari mechanism, but if it uses a Shugart-style interface, I don't see why it wouldn't work. As said though, a dedicated SIO-orientated device will likely offer better performance. I have a Biggus Dickus from Lotharek, which is basically an SIO2SD with a larger display and a nice case, and it's excellent.
  5. Well, while TF may have stepped back from the internet side of things, there was an Amiga meetup in Glasgow in December, and I got to see him demonstrate the TF360 *and* TF1260 up and running, side by side. Both running Quake competently and (perhaps more importantly) stably. There's some more work to be done on them, but they're pretty close to being available now! Edit: Oops, I meant to add a link for the Amiga Ireland meetup details: amigausers.ie
  6. Similar to the first suggestion, these are available for Amiga use (which means they'll work on the A8 too), and come in left- and right-handed versions (the button positioning being the difference). Edit: Alternatively, something like a Zipstick might be a good bet second hand. They're what I prefer personally, and their construction means that they can be opened and have their microswitches replaced fairly easily. So long as there's no damage to the case or cable, replacing the switches will give you an almost-new stick.
  7. Oops, my apologies. Decades of thinking of the "Atari" standard on most systems being pin 6 for button 1 and pin 9 for button 2, with both simply being a pull-to-ground. I didn't realise the Atari itself didn't pull the pin up like many other implementations of the "standard". Still, adding a resistor to the pad is a simple thing, and it should still work as intended on the Mastersystem too.
  8. Personally I'm not fond of the idea of powering a pad from what is an I/O pin. when I'm using a Megadrive / Genesis pad on my Atari or Amiga, I use a simple adaptor I built that corrects the situation by running pad pin 5 to computer pin 7, and pad pin 7 to computer pin 7 via a resistor. No modifying of the pad required, it's powered correctly, and it's correctly set for 2-button use. Variations on this are also possible: connecting pin 7 of the pad to pin 5 of the computer lets software read all 4 buttons on the pad (assuming pin 5 can be controlled as an output), and adding some diodes also protects the C64 against damage while not affecting operation on Atari systems. Edit: As an aside, a Sega Mastersystem controller is actually wired correctly for Atari 2-button use and doesn't carry redundant buttons, so that might be a better option for some.
  9. Okay, thanks for the answers guys, that helps me get a better view of what's doable. Separate compilers aren't a problem - it's good to know they exist. As for the recursive calling, I can always roll my own rudimentary stack system and use GOSUB, but it would have been nice to have a ready-to-go system. The main use case I was thinking of was AI routines - I'm sure I can make them well enough behaved to work within strict parameters. I'll have a play with each of them and see how I get on. One more question: If I do end up putting something together, is there a main repository of Atari 8-bit software that people upload their homebrew stuff to? Thanks!
  10. This may have been answered before, but I wanted to check to make sure I understand the situation fully. I'm looking to dabble in BASIC on my 800XL after decades of not touching it. In the meantime I've been coding other stuff in various languages, but most hobby stuff would be in Blitz Basic on the Amiga. Now, I'd like to refresh/re-do my old Atari programs from back in the day, but also convert some of my newer programs for the Atari (with necessary adjustments of course). These would be mostly simple turn-based games with the option of a computer opponent. What I would like from a BASIC that the original Atari BASIC I used couldn't do: - String arrays (with strings as each element, rather than a character as each element like Atari BASIC) - Compilation for speed - Procedures that support recursive calling (so stack, local variables etc.) - Perhaps slightly better graphics support - sprites etc. I'd prefer to use the real hardware (stock other than an SIO2SD solution) if possible but emulation or cross compilation aren't entirely ruled out. From what I read, there are two main options: Turbo Basic XL and FastBasic. Do either (or both) of these tick all the boxes above? Are there any other options I should look at? Am I expecting too much? Thanks!
  11. I was pretty late to the party I guess. My first modem was an external Creative Labs 56k ModemBlaster. It was an excellent bit of kit actually, used it for years with my Amiga 1200 (which shared the connection to the LAN so my Mac and PC could also access the internet). I remember the time semi-unlimited dial-up was a thing, where there was on call cost provided you connected for less than an hour. I wrote a little script that would suspend the network and hang up after 59 minutes, immediately redial and resume activity. I also used that modem to dial into the Amiga. At the time I had lots of things in my room automated (lights, window blinds, stereo etc.), all controlled by a modded Amiga 600. The A1200 was connected to the 600, and I had it set up that I could dial into the 1200 and use keypad tones to turn things on and off in the room. *sigh* I wish I had that sort of free time these days!
  12. Yeah, it's definitely worth going if you can! Plenty of Amigas from very old to very new and everything in between. Usually a few C64s and similar knocking around too. Check out some of the 3D printed D-pad replacements, which might do the job. The Competition Pro is a nice pad, and generally much sought after so hold onto that if you enjoy it! I prefer the smaller D-pads of the SNES etc., but that's more a personal thing. The RAM alone will give you a significant boost, but if you have the cash, the 030 is the way to go. If you have games installed on the CF card, you'll typically be using WHDLoad. That patches installed games so that they save to the CF card instead of NVRAM or floppy. Original games will still need to save to the (very limited) NVRAM of the CD32. You should bear in mind that you'll need to get a riser for fitting any accelerator or RAM card in the CD32 anyway, so it might make sense to pay a little extra for one with PS/2 keyboard capability. There are other options though - the CD32 Aux port accepts input from an Amiga 4000 keyboard, and while they're expensive in their own right, you can get adaptors for the A4000 that let you use a PC keyboard. These should work on the CD32 as well. Lyra is one example.
  13. Yeah, the TF330 will make a huge difference to the speed of the machine. While many of the 2D arcade-type games won't see much difference other than loading times, 3D stuff like Frontier, flight sims and strategy stuff like Theme Park, Syndicate etc. will all get a significant boost. However, even the TF328 (RAM + IDE/CF) will give a decent speed boost, because as standard the 14MHz 68020 is a little choked by the RAM access speed on the CD32 since it's shared with the Amiga chipset. Adding some CPU-specific RAM is enough to let the CPU work on one thing in its own RAM while the chipset works on another in the shared RAM. But the 68030 of the TF330 is a different beast again. Either way, the added hard drive functionality makes the CD32 into a very impressive machine for all Amiga games. What exactly is broken with the controller? They're not a great controller to be honest, and the D-pad is commonly broken. There are 3D print files available for replacements, but honestly a 3rd party replacement might be better. For example, the KTRL-CD32 is a homebrew pad that takes a clone SNES pad and replaces the guts with a CD32-compatible board. This also gives the advantage of being able to remap buttons, e.g. mapping up (for jump) to one of the buttons for platformers intended for joystick control. And hello from a fellow Dub I'm not sure if you know about it, but there's a pretty big yearly Amiga meetup that happens in Athlone for a weekend every January. There's usually some pretty big names at it (Dave Haynie is booked for this one coming for example), and lots of gaming competitions, workshops and so on. and of course, pints I'll be there giving a talk on ARexx programming :p Check out amigausers.ie if you're interested!
  14. Hmmm, well if you look at the relative thicknesses of the metal in the base of the keyboard compared to the shielding (and ignoring the added rigidity from the turned up edges of the keyboard tray), I can't see how it would make much difference at all. If something is exerting enough force on the keyboard to bend the steel tray, a thin bit of tinplate isn't going to have much hope. Especially since the keyboard itself shouldn't normally touch the shielding (hence the copper spring strip that was originally fixed to the top of the shield for grounding the keyboard), so the keyboard would need to bend by a couple of mm before any support offered by the shielding would be effective. Besides, I've seen plenty of bent A500 keyboards, most of which have still had their top shielding.
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