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Bikerbob

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Everything posted by Bikerbob

  1. So build without it for now then? Ok dokie James
  2. Sorry I need to ask again since no one answered me.. Where do I do the vsync mod.. since I read it is on the solder side of the board.. and my 1.1 board has no markings on the solder side for any components. James
  3. I appreciate everything said. I had the mss100.sys and device installer. . I could not keep it "alive" aka not rebooting long enough to flashare. According to the manual I do the reset button as it's booting.. done it several times. Not sure how to know it works. But that does not prevent the reboot cycle. I will try on xp box. James
  4. Well.. I offically do not like disk caps.. phew.. they are done! Getting there.. off to do stuff outside.. can't be a celler dweller all the time. James
  5. Well tried it on my home network ( earlier was at work) and I am having the same issue.. though device installer at home did see it. I have a xp machine.. and linux laptop.. so those could be tried as well. mss.sys seems to be the firmware file .. but deviceinstaller did not like it. James
  6. OH.. really? ok.. I did not think a serial connection was needed to see the device and setup.. I did the UDS-100 on my PC no problems and did not connect it to a serial port. This one I have been trying to do the same.. but you are right.. there is some serial connectivity (but red) and then it does the reboot. SO maybe this device NEEDS the serial device there. James
  7. Well.. looks like I might have gotten stung on the MSS-100 - drag.. it is stuck in a bootup loop.. I see it go through the process.. something it does not seem to like after 10sec.. then shuts down and reboots.. OVER AND OVER. I dont think I can get any help from Lantronix on this? I find nothing about this in the troubleshooting.. ANYONE?? James 20190802_162559[1].mp4
  8. I am using Silver Solder 60/40 and did not use flux on both sides.. hmm never thought of that. OK.. thanks guys. James
  9. OK, so the follow up.. I have installed most of the resistors now.. Some i see the solder at the component side.. most I do not.. so should I reflow some? ... if so.. do I touch the lead on the compent side.. to draw the solder up to the heat? or add more solder on the solder side. James
  10. Ok so on MYTEKs board here we have contact all the way through the hole?... but a trace on the top or bottom of the board would need contact with that pad correct? James
  11. There is no mask on the solder side of the board for these components? I am not sure where I put them? James
  12. LOL.. sorry guys.. I know all this is two years old.. but hope this is bringing back memories of you first doing the board.. That being said this is a technique question. I assume on this board with pads on the top and bottom that even for resistors etc.. I should be making sure I flow enough solder to get all the way through?? So is there a way to know that I have done this without just flipping the board over and seeing that I have flowed enough through? James
  13. I have all that.. guess I am just not very good at it yet. James
  14. Thanks.. but I am fine with it.. Now all I have to worry about is if I torched any traces on my original attempt to desolder the one header.. before I saw Jon's video and pulled the pins individually on the 2nd one. James
  15. Well I figure I am going to use the MSS-100 for calling.. and the UDS-100 for the BBSs I will be playing with.. testing etc... It is amazing how many OTHER bbs softwares there are out there.. than the ones popularly used. Only if I find something usable and different will I actually leave it up.. otherwise we dont need more of the same. James
  16. I was on SFHQ all seems well. This bbs is my fav.. sorry everyone else. I love the Ratsoft setup. Also just picked up a mss-100 $20... score right!! James
  17. Well I ended up with 2 x 4x4 headers after making the other two. So I then took them and made a 2x2 and 3x3 used the dremel to clean them up so they will mate and align.. and have a 5x5 out of them.. more hacking and dremel than I wanted but p4 s0 is now included in the party.
  18. ok.. another boo-boo The header on the U1MB that would solder to the PBI on the computer.. P4 S0.. does it need to be connected to the 1088xel??? I cut the header to an 8pin block not a 10pin block. Thanks James
  19. Ok, couple of back and forths with Lotherak, and I know how to salvage the pad I pulled.. VERY lucky for me P5 pin5 is not used.. pin7 goes to A8.. and a simple jumper from the backside of the board will fix that up. I will follow Jon on the pin removal.. damit damit damit.. I have a powered solder sucker.. and got too confident.. so easy to remove the individual pins.. THATS what I should have done. McRorie, assuming you read this.. I assume those individual pin rows are what were included to make the header?? (OR anyone else who did it?) Bought all the kit in 2017 - just doing it now.. OH - recomendation on Solder paste.. I saw you using something in a syringe Jon.. I have a small tub of paste.. good enough? or should I get that stuff? James
  20. GREAT... I ordered mine a while ago.. just tonight tried unsoldering one of the headers.. I lifted 2 pads.. from the solder side.. but it looks like I might have lucked out and nothing is connected to those pads on that side of the board. The U1MB is just a 2 layer board correct?? Now in my kit from McRorie, I got 2 LONG female headers.. and a bunch of single row pins.. These are for this job correct??? How do I cut the headers?? James
  21. well I ordered an ESR/capatence tester and also all the caps I need to redo both of my megaste's. I am going to test the one that generates the lines first.. not the values.. then test the other.. before I change any caps.. So that I can see what I get once I am done. James
  22. never tried it.. but I guess you cannot go out and come back in to test yourself? because you are going out and coming in on the same address and port?? James
  23. I will confirm I think you are right.. I pulled the psu from my 1991 MegaSTE and it is the 5 post model.. this is a serial with only 4 digits. Later one i have with serial in the 5 digits 40K - 4 post model. I just picked up a capacitence and ESR meter - I will check my PSUs before ripping them apart. James
  24. If you read through the thread I think you will find it does work on most SDrive type devices, I cannot say for sure what the MAX difference is.. but I think your pretty good. DOCTOR? what do you mean update?? as in adding more that are missing? James
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