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WishItWas1984

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About WishItWas1984

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  1. The thing is, what's travelling over that HDMI cable? If it's not remotely current resolutions, then I'm not surprised they've dropped support. I imagine their thought is, "let the device do the upscaling" What I wonder is how much they are saving by strictly accepting only, lets say, a 720p and up resolution over HDMI. Perhaps it's enough in volume to make a difference. I'm trying to make educated guesses because if it's not a cost-saving measure, then I'm at a complete loss on why this would be the case.
  2. Agreed. I was honestly shocked when even with a RetroTINK I couldn't get an image, and my Samsung is not a lower end model for 2018. I can easily see this as becoming the norm. Retail margins are razor thin, so if they can do the bare minimum, they will. I also don't particularly disagree with this change. We shouldn't expect businesses to make sure dead tech is supported. Thankfully other technologies get around these limitations one way or another. For example, a Retron77, Raspberry Pi, and Blu-ray player can display retro games and DVD media just fine on my TV. Also, other, more independent devices will help to get old tech functional if there's a significant need.
  3. Yeah, I should've mentioned an option that was within reason. To be quite honest, I've just fully loaded a Retron77 and loaded up TI-99/4A on my RetroPie to compensate for my video issues in the living room. In the future, I hope to grab a basic HDMI converter to get both original consoles setup in my office on my older 39" 1080p display I use in my MAME setup. I'm hoping that old HDMI port will accept the signal. If not, the TV has a component/composite I can hopefully utilize with a 2-to-1 splitter.
  4. I would issue a word of warning on hardware upscalers to those looking to play on a modern TV. I have an relatively high-end Samsung TV from 2018 (Q8FN) and got a "Mode Not Supported" error on my TI-99/4A and S-Video modded 2600. I bought a RetroTINK and that didn't work and had to return it. During my research I found a Samsung TV owner with the same issue, but using a PS3! That was supposedly resolved by having the PS3 auto-detect what the TV was looking for. Something not possible in my situation. And that's the issue with some modern TVs, they do NOT accept a 480p signal over the HDMI port, and at some point all of them will ONLY supply HDMI ports. Again, this warning is for modern TV users. Thankfully, this shouldn't be that big of an issue for the foreseeable future for those that can setup a 2nd screen. Many naturally enjoy large, old tube TVs, but I'd imagine there would be a considerable amount of used 1080p sets out there with older connections. Personally, I wish I could find something I knew upscaled all the way to 1080p from S-Video/Composite while keeping the aspect ratio, but I imagine I never will.
  5. I have a modded 2600 to Composite/S-Video but need to use a Retron77 instead. I tried to convert to HDMI. Even Bought a RetroTink. Nothing works. From previous research the current theory was that the TV demands a specific signal that's within HDMI's official spec. So I'm wondering... mainly taking a shot in the dark...to see if anyone has this TV and overcome this. Or overcame this issue on a do TV entirely. Perhaps with a specific after market converter or something. Thanks
  6. 2600daptor does. It's what I'm using with the OTG to get paddles to work. I don't own the other as I have a Visiondaptor, which I use on my Pi for original Colecovision, Intellivision, Ti-99, and Genesis controllers
  7. Click the 2nd link Fluxit posted above. Then download the file that's linked in there (sdcard.remo.2019....) Unzip it Click the 1st link Fluxit posted above. That first post has instructions, but you can scroll down a few posts and see an embedded video on what to do. That should get you through it. You're basically burning an image to a microSD card like you would burn an image to a CD or DVD years ago. Then you just copy in the games to the specific folder. I forget exactly off the top of my head, but I think the video goes over that. Then pop it into the Retron77. In terms of size, maybe someone else can answer as to whether the community build image has a size restriction, but honestly, ALL Atari 2600 games....every one ever made....take up only a few MB. So any size card is going to be wayyyyy overkill for the Retron77. Stick with the cheapest card you can find and you'll be good to go.
  8. http://atariage.com/forums/topic/281462-retron-77-community-build-image/page-10
  9. Well thank you to all involved in figuring out how to get around the Retron 77 paddle problem. Just tested my OTG and new 2600-daptorII, and my cleaned paddles work perfectly. New high score in Kaboom to boot! lol I mean, at this point I should've just got the damned daptor and gone through my Pi to get my 2600 back, but it's still cool to physically pop in a cart and have some faux woodgrain on the table. Oh and whoever the hell makes the daptors is a god damned hero. I also looooove my Vision-daptor on the Pi.
  10. Schaweeet. Daptor and cables ordered! Now I can finally see how well I cleaned those damned paddles! I appreciate the info
  11. Thanks. The power so far has not been an issue for me *knocks on wood*. I had a long enough microUSB cable already so I'm glad I don't have to hunt down an even longer micro-to-USB-A cable and buy an adapter. Sweet on the paddles!! So does that mean cartridges will work too in this scenario, since the ROM dump is essentially using Stella and not Hyperkin code as well?
  12. I'm confused about two things. 1) I know the jitter of original paddles on the 77 is supposedly caused by Hyperkin's code, so is the recommendation viable because going through the daptor+microUSB means the daptor is handling control translation, bypassing the faulty code? 2) If the above is true, then would my setup work with the OTG cable? I power my 77 via a microUSB cable plugged into a USB Type-A 5V/1A charging port on my TV. No AC adapter. So would paddles and power for the 77 function through the OTG?
  13. Resurrecting this because it's the only solution I can seem to find online. Hopefully someone can reply to this... I understand what was done here, but I'm unclear how to actually recompile the cpp file. I assume you edit via a nano command though, yes? Regardless, what are the odds of someone posting their edited cpp file?? LOL Cause that cursor is driving me nuts and I hate having to plug in a mouse to move it all of the time.
  14. Not a stupid question at all. Sometimes the easiest stuff is overlooked. At first I tried a USB cable to the 5V/1A USB port of my TV, as from what I read online, the RetroTINK only needs 1A. It powered on, but just to be safe I grabbed a 5V/3A AC adapter and used that too. Same deal.
  15. Thanks. Yeah, I actually partially sorted it. After looking around for a solution, there seems to have been none with that being the prevailing reason. So I grabbed a Retron77 and used the Community Build here to solve my 2600 problems. Now I'm just trying to return the TINK to the guy who makes them for a refund. Oh well.
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