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Agussy

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Everything posted by Agussy

  1. Thanks a lot to everyone who has helped me in this forum - Good eggs all! My final verdict appears to be is that Steem 3.8.1 Works beautifully on my laptop that has Windows XP installed and does Not work (and this is ALL MIDI-WISE-SPEAKING) on my Windows 7 64 bit so, I will just have to stay on the XP for the oldies but goodies - btw, while it was a little better, it did NOT work correctly in XP Mode in my WIn7 machine - I wanted to come back in to Thank all again and to hopefully help someone else - Now, on to Studio Pro 2 for all my new Songs!
  2. Hey Galax and Atarifanboi, I already visited this link (Thanks btw) where I download Only that Zip file called "hatari-1.9.0_windows64.zip" (Just that one; am I needing other files to go with it?) And, I am using those ROM files you mention (TOS 104US.ROM), including the Images I made using Floimg, but w/o any success - I'll fiddle some more - Thanks again!
  3. I did try Hatari without any luck - I installed it on my windows 7 and I "think" it only goes up to XP (which I do have on a Laptop and will try when time permits)...the experiment continues...yea!
  4. AFB - Probably a good thing for me that my meter doesn't measure Amps (Ha!) - I think your theory is spot on though, about the over-all output necessary to make the machine run properly so, it most likely is the Power Supply and its age that are the culprits - Still trying the STeem & PC approach, hoping that will remedy itself or I'll have to breakdown (read cheap-o) and buy one - Also, I'm currently trying to learn a DAW called Studio One 2 (free, of course!) It's real nice, but boy is it complicated - That's what I liked about the Atari & MTPo = Simple, but effective - Thank You for your time and all of your Help, Atarifanboi!
  5. AFB - With the unit powered up, if I measure 12v, 5v & 5v, would I still not know the Amps at that point? or might my Actual readings of 12v, 4.95v & 4.95v indicate that it's a little low on amps? - I assume a more professional multi-meter does measure amps? (I have a Radio Shack Digital M-M with DC, AC, resistance and continuity)
  6. Thanks Everyone for all the info - I agree! Hey Atarifanboi, I do Not have access to a working unit to test anything - Sounds like you (and many others) thinks that it is a simple matter of just replacing the power supply? - Surely the PS AND the Floppy didn't break at the same time?! Also, I guess if I measure the Floppy PS wires (yes, mine are Red & Blue), it is still getting it's juice from the main PS anyway so, probably wouldn't tell me much and that was causing the clicking - Thanks for PS link, too - If I can ever just get the STeem emulator's Midi working, I'd be a happy person at the campsite!
  7. Hey Atarifanboi - And heeere they are: With my unit fully powered up, (110v plus my 12v DC "PS Bypass Blue pin) I read the two Red wires (specs say each should be 5v) and they did measure that (actually 4.94v each but close enuf, right?) So, that trio of wires are getting what they require (I think I already mentioned the PS intact measurements were 4.94v x 2 + 10.75v <-- That's why I'm puzzled my 12v bypass didn't work?!) - btw, Do you know what the Floppy's 4-Pin Power Plug Voltages are, by chance? - I've been searching, with no luck so far, and I'd like to measure those, as well - Onward and upward!
  8. Thanks Rod - The 12v "bypass" adapter I added in did provide 12v, but while the FD clicking went away, it did nothing else - I did flip over the Cable = no change - I don't know how to chg to DS0 - Since my PS Did put out 10.75v (but needed 12v) so, I can't imagine the problem being anything other than that, but it must be somewhere deeper inside the unit(?) I downloaded Hatari and at present trying to see if that will work for me...I need more Hatari-study time
  9. Thanks, but I've tested the two 5v DC (which came in at 4.95v each - close enough, I assume?) so, since they Were working, me adding in the 12v separately (which also measured correctly at 12v) should have worked, although, it didn't - If all 3 measured correctly when they were 120v AC powered-up, I can't figure out why that's not the fix? At the moment, I'm still stuck on getting STeem to make Master Track Pro's MIDI to come in accurately - MIDI kinda half works, as is...Maybe I'll look into Hatari instead
  10. On the PS both were 4.95v (which I think should be enough), but the Blue wire Did come up as 10.75v, that's why I thought for sure was the problem - the P-cable and ribbon and pins look great - I put in two floppy drives that I know work and while the green front light was on, it did nothing else - maybe it's a component on the MB, but I don't know how each are identified - for now, just going with virtual STeem and Master Tracks Pro Music Studio on PC where currently, using a Midi in/out to USB cable that's brand new, I'm having a Midi Piano "Chords" reading problem - Single notes are fine = Electronics: Yea!
  11. Hi Rod, all I know is that when I powered on the Atari, the Blue wire requiring 12v 0.9A (according to the Atari specs I found) WAS being supplied 12v 1.25A (which I understand it only siphons off 0.9A) and it still was not working - All of my measurements were done With the all of the Atari's components connected, powered up and running
  12. I did my "Splice-in" idea with external 12v 1.25A and they measured correctly as working, but my Atari still is not doing anything (In fact now, it doesn't even make the clicking noise - Also, I "think" this is new: The light in the middle right (below 1040ST) comes on with power, then dims way, way down quickly - My Reds were both measuring 4.95v before so, I can't believe if needs 5v that 4.95v would cause problems - I press down all the Chips (carefully) before I did any of this - I thought for sure the Splice-in would've worked....wah! I did however get my Steem to PC up and running Master Tracks Pro, but the MIDI in/out to USB cable, while working, is jumbling up the output data to my instruments - e.g., my Multi-Channel Tone Generator notes gets stuck, but some data works great (Drum mach. on CH. 16, for instance)....still trying to fix this = it's probably an internal Steem setting I need to reset correctly, I guess? I saw some kind of MIDI "Volume" slider in the Steem MIDI section; maybe it's in there?
  13. I got it! I needed to (and did) click use Full Editor, but now I also see More Options button = THANKS!
  14. This Atariage.com site itself says: "Look below the box where you type your text. You should see the word Attachments and a Browse button below that. (When replying to a thread, you'll need to click on the More Reply Options button first.)" I see an "Options" button, but no help there and I have never seen an Attachments button anywhere....Maybe I need to be a member longer in order to do this??
  15. btw - Back to the Power Supply - I finally tested it using the Black Middle Ground for all 3 tests and here is what I got: Red Left to Black Middle = 4.95v DC (each Red should be 5v, but isn't that close enough?) 2nd Red = 4.95v and Blue to Black Middle = 10.73v = Ah Ha! it should be 12v! That must be the problem so, my next question is: In lieu of buying a power supply, couldn't I just "splice-in" an External 12v Power supply (I have many on hand) directly to the Cut/Separated Blue and a Black (middle, again?) Pins and plug in the AC cord (now missing the Blue powering) along with the 12v adapter now powering that Blue Pin and use them both together to make the Machine work again? Also, do you know how long any capacitor voltages take to drain in order to handle without getting shocked? I ramble-on pretty well, huh? Thanks again
  16. Thanks Atarifanboi - I'd be happy to upload the Image except, I cannot figure out How to upload anything in this forum - The image I would send would be the Master Tracks Pro Program itself of an Image (supposedly, but the ext does show as .ST) I made from my original Disk in Floppy A on my PC using the program obtained at: http://atari.8bitchip.info/floimgd.php
  17. I will search out and replace (or re assign?) the TOS 1.04 (I think it's at Steem site?) - I saw a place in Steem to "park" TOS's so, probably I'll see it and "install?" it from in there I wondered about the STE only b/c I have a 1040STFM and there was an STF option - Since it was defaulted to STE, I will leave as is I do see in Steem's drive mgr. the MTPro.ST Icon and I remember drag/droping on the Left Drive (A?) and I press the red button and then the yellow and it seemed it was trying to load for just a second, but then stalled so, I pressed Pause to get my mouse back By high resolution, do you mean my PC's monitor resolution i.e., 1440 x 900? I tried to attach a PDF showing my chips (which all looks great), but I could not figure out how to do that so, me uploading an Image here puts me in the same boat - where/how do I do this? I should have done two posts per question: 1st being "Repair Atari" and 2nd being "Convert my PC to Atari" (emulator) - Thanks again!
  18. Atarifanboi - I am in mid-Steem (oops) of trying to accomplish that route currently - And, if I understand, the Image route converts my PC into an Atari essentially, and I would have no need for the 1040ST machine except for using the Discs made on it, right? - I had posted a (long-arse) question regarding this (below) to my Atari-bud galax, that if you don't mind, I will post here for you - I wrote: galax - Regarding your MTPro "program emulator" great suggestion, I am having difficulty getting that going, as follows: I was able to install Steem and it launches, but trying to load an image goes nowhere so, to show you what Steem said: Steem SSE 3.8.1 is Installed Machine: STE (Hope that means STfm, too? It is changeable to STF - STE was the default) TOS: v2.06 (aka emutos-512k-0.9.5/etos512k from the Steem site) <--- Is this the correct TOS to use? Monitor: Colour (Low/Med Resolution) ST CPU speed: 8 Megahertz Active Drives: A, B C {where is B?) drive speed: Fast And using the Floimg (aka "8.bitchip") I saved a MTPro .ST file (aka Image?) to my desktop, but I can't get Steem to open and run it - Do I need a different TOS? If I understand this, I use Floimg to make a MTPro Disc .ST image (which I did and saw it saved as an "ST" image file) and then Steem is used to Run that ST Image (exactly like my Atari did), is this correct? So, rather than obtain my MTPro original Floppy program to make Images (which I can make an image of), I would use the MTP Image software link you gave me to obtain those, to run it, right? Looks like my main problem is the Steem is not working, although I did get a "Successful Install" message from Steem = It looks like to me, using Floimg, I can make a Image from my Floppy AND from the MTPro download, but neither will load in to the Steem - When Drop the ST image in Steem and press the yellow (or red?) button it does not much of anything, then I press Pause/Break to release my mouse and close Steem out - I do have an internal Floppy and using WIndows 7 64 on my Inspiron 530 - Also, I didn't want to buy another 1040ST b/c if I can make my PC perform exactly like the Atari did by using an Image along with Midi to USB cables I ordered, then I'd have a stronger, bigger Dell Computer instead - Thanks again!
  19. Thanks Atarifanboi for taking the time to dumb-it-down b/c I needed that and the picture w/arrows really helps! I'm going to power it up with the A/C, expose the underside of the PS Board and D/C test the leads from there, all the while staying the heck away from everywhere else on said board! - galax confirmed the correct DC voltage amounts for me (Thanks to him, too) - I've heard of the "drop-box" method, too which, I agree with you = Naw - The (abundant) chips underneath the metal shield that I see seem to be all soldered down, b/c I first started there without any movements, but I'll go back again and look for any socket-ables - I appreciate all the nice ppl on this site!
  20. galax - Regarding your MTPro "program emulator" great suggestion, I am having difficulty getting that going, as follows: I was able to install Steem so, show you what I have it said: Steem SSE 3.8.1 is Installed Machine: STE (Hope that means STFM, too? - It is changeable to STF - STE was the default) TOS: v2.06 (aka emutos-512k-0.9.5/etos512k from the Steem site) - (I saw somewhere maybe I should be using 1.02 UK version or is this that one??) Monitor: Colour (Low/Med Resolution) ST CPU speed: 8 Megahertz Active Drives: A, B C {where is B?) drive speed: Fast And using the Floimg I saved a MTPro .ST file (aka Image?) to my desktop, but I can't get Steem to open and run it - Do I need another TOS? If I understand this, I use Floimg to make a MTPro Disc .ST image (which I did and saw it saved as an "ST" image file) and then Steem is used to Run that ST Image (exactly like my Atari did), is this correct? So, rather than obtain my MTPro original Floppy program to make Images, I would use the MTP Image software link you gave me to obtain those, to run it, right? Looks like my main problem is the Steem is not working, I "think" - Sorry for the Looong question! THANKS!
  21. Yes, but How do you go about replacing it?
  22. galax = Looks like I plug in the DC leads to Measure the 6 female Pins that I see, which are from left to right: Red, Red, Black, Black, Black and Blue, but is the first left red pin #1 and Blue #6 in that order? As an example, you said: 12v Dc between pins 1 and 6 - If what I guess is correct, then this mean measuring the far left red pin And far right Blue pin to show 12v DC? The "easy to fix" puzzles me, unless you mean buying a new PSU?
  23. galax = Sorry for all the reading! If I knew how to delete my prior post, I would've - I just came across a thread you posted where You asked about testing a PS and you confirmed the DC volt amounts as follows:: pins 1 and 2 are 5v pins 3, 4, 5 are ground pin 6 is 12 v So, it looks like I plug in the A/C cord to Measure the 6 Pins that I see which are: Red, Red, Black, Black, Black and Blue - Is the first red pin #1 and Blue #6 in that order? And I assume I would put the black lead on (any?) of the Black Pins to measure all 3 DC Voltages or does pin 1 on go with 1st black and pin 2 on 2nd, etc.? (Although, I guess Ground is Ground so, I could use any black order?) And I agree with you; $70 IS a bit steep for a PS! Now, I'm thinking of hooking up 3 Individual External PS's that output 5v and 12v to power the whole she-bang! Wonder if that would work? Thanks again!
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