Jump to content
Have You Played Atari Today?
2600|5200|7800|Lynx|Jaguar|Forums|Store  

slydc

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    211

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by slydc

  2. Posted

    I have the Coleco Telstar Colortron which uses the AY-3-8510-1 chip...the 16 pin one. Is this mod possible on this chip? If so what pins? I tried tracing the circuit back from the RF modulator, but I didn't get enough of a signal there to drive a TV...I didn't hook up the oscilloscope yet...if I do what should I look for as a video signal?

     

    Hi youbecha,

     

    Yes it is possible to mod this chip (same as the AY-3-8512-1) as i did it on my Telstar Colortron (i've made a video on Youtube:

    ) P.S.: It's just a video showing the games, no info on how to do a mod.

     

    So to make a video output on this chip, you can use any of the circuits which "boost" the video signal BUT... you need to invert the video signal

    to get a proper signal. Instead of getting the output from the "Emitter" of a transistor, take the output from the "Collector" as this inverts the signal.

    You'll get a video signal but it will be a bit blurry as i still haven't "fine-tuned" or "tweaked" this mod. OH and you'll also need to take the signal directly

    from pin #11 and unsolder or cut the parts (resistor & capacitor) before the circuit goes to the RF modulator, as these can generate noises or darken

    the signal.

     

    BTW, there is only three Pong consoles which have these special "16-pins" chips: The Coleco Telstar Colortron (AY-3-8510-1), the Coleco

    Telstar Marksman and the Sears Gunsligner II (both uses the AY-3-8512-1).

     

    And here's the pinout of the AY-3-8512-1 made by a Russian fellow: 736c3ffc2e2b.jpg

  3. Posted · Edited by slydc

    Damn my %??&&*? computer!!! (Yes, it's a piece of junk)

     

    I had a big text all typed then the computer froze and closed firefox, so all the text i've typed is gone.

    But they say a picture is worth a thousand word, so here's 2,000 words...LOL! ;)

     

    Atari Tank I (was going to be sold by Sears):

    https://ibb.co/nouw9a

     

    And Atari Tank II:

    https://ibb.co/m5ZA2v

     

    And while at it, another 1,00 words:

    https://ibb.co/iRva2v

     

    And please no TANK very much!! ;)

  4. Posted

    Hi again folks,

     

    @Dastari Creel: Thanks! =) I hope that you have 20 years to spare to know everything about Gen 1 consoles because i've

    been gathering information about the 1st Generation (Pong consoles, Pong systems, dedicated consoles, etc..) and i've still

    have some unanswered questions. If you check on archive.org, there is a section called "Download Options" and you can

    download in PDF or even in Torrent (as others formats).

     

    @pboland: Flashback 7 years ago to this: http://atariage.com/forums/topic/168304-the-little-brother-of-the-intellivision-unisonic-champion-2711/

     

    If anyone clicks on the link, i've wrote all the information i had about the Magnavox Odyssey 5000 back then and here's some new

    information i've found in the last 7 years:

     

    The Odyssey 5000 was previously called the Odyssey 4000! Really! But it's number model was BH7530 (the actual Odyssey 4000 released model

    is BH7511) ans was to be sold under $100 in 1977. Check out "Video games" book by Len Buckwalter at page 140 as the games describes are

    exactly the same games for the Odyssey 5000.

     

    In the book "The Personnal Electronics Buyer's Guide" by Charles & Roger J. Sippl on page 84, it also mentions that the Odyssey 5000 had

    4-players capability and finally in "Weekly Television digest with consumer electronics Vol.17 part 2 on page 31, it mentions that the Odyssey 5000

    was FCC approved! So this proves that at least one prototype exists and i'm betting that the person who tested for FCC approval was an engineer

    at Sanders Associates since M.Baer did see the game console on September 7-8 1977 (at Sanders of course).

     

    For reading (or download) the book by Len Buckwalter, go here: https://archive.org/details/VideoGames_201704

     

    and another great book that i was looking for the past 12 years and finally discovered last night(!) that it was scanned

    on archive.org by the same guy, the book: Gametronics Proceedings: https://archive.org/details/GamtronicsProceedings

     

    This is a must read folks! It has so many historical references and pictures. Same as the book by Len Buckwalter, this one

    too is a must read if you wanna learn about the 1st Gen (and a bit of the 2nd Gen also).

     

    @BassGuiteri: These old game consoles (100, 200, 400 and 500 - not the 300 since it has a dedicated AY-3-8500-1 chip)

    can jitter, ball serve not functioning, etc...as the components are getting old but usually, a good cleaning corrects 75% of

    most "bad behaviors".

     

    And finally, just for fun, some people were looking for information regarding the Odyssey 5000 almost 10 years ago:

    http://videopac.nl/forum/index.php?topic=361.0

    • Like 2

  5. Posted

    I have all the Magnavox service manuals you're looking for as i have acquired them about 3 months ago. And as pboland mentioned, you can

    get all the Magnavox service manuals in the book: "How to repair video games", like on Upay:

    http://www.ebay.ca/itm/How-to-Repair-Video-Games-Goodman-/370276255664?hash=item56362f47b0:g:QOIAAMXQC-tTDVur

     

    I will scan all the Magnavox service manuals soon and upload them on www.archive.org so that everyone can get a copy.

    Both Odyssey 100 & 200 are combined in the same service manual as YF7010 (Ody100) and YF7015 (Ody200), after it is

    the BG7500 (Ody300), BG7516 (Ody400), BG7520 (Ody500), BH7510 (Ody2000), BH7514 (Ody3000) and finally BH7511 (Ody4000).

    As for the Odyssey 5000, I know a prototype exist as M.Baer saw it and tested it, which this console had a MM57106 plus a

    Signetics MUGS-1 which had 2 games inside (Tank & Helicopter). But trying to find a schematic of the Odyssey 5000, i would say:

    Good Luck! =)

     

    I have the pinout of the MM57106 (MM57186 in Europe) somewhere in my personal notes, but for the MUGS-1...that's a mystery to all of us!

     

    And if this interest anyone, i have a blog (http://discreteconsoles.blogspot.ca/) which features how to A/V mod a Odyssey 100/200/400/500.

    And it's very, very easy to do!

    • Like 1

  6. Posted

    @alex_79: Very nice job on how you're keeping the "original" look by sending the composite video thru the rf cable.

    Quite true the the "grass" effect looks great for the Football/Fusbal (aka Soccer)! =)

     

    And you're right for the jittery paddle problem as many old Pong console have this problem which is 95% caused by

    dirty pots. Even my Coleco Telstar Alpha does this problem time to time. Buy a can of cleaner/degreaser spray for

    electronic parts/contacts, it's usually about $5 and often does miracles. And if a spray cleaner doesn't do the trick

    then you'll need to replace the pot(s) which for any AY-3-8500 or TMS1955/1965 are 1MegaOhms variable potentiometers.

     

    @Kain3n: Happy to read that you've solved the wavy effect problem!

     

    Once i have finished some projects, i will try to A/V mod some other dedicated consoles like the Nintendo TV-Games

    and the Coleco Telstar Arcade just to mention a few. I know that ANY game consoles/systems can be A/V modded as

    all outputs video signals and are converted to RF signals.

     

    --- Sly DC ---

  8. Posted

    Hi Kain3n,

     

    Sorry for the late reply, i'm always running after time (lol). Looks like you're really doing great for someone who doesn't have much

    knowledge in soldering and electronics, so thumbs up to you! :thumbsup:

     

    This is the first time i'm seeing the "wavy" effect, which is cool in a sense but i think i may have the solution to this problem even

    i've never seen it. I can see 3 possible problems that could cuase this, either you connected the SYNC (pin#16 of the AY-3-8500-1)

    with all the video feeds (pin #6+9+10+24) or it's a capacitor that is starting to fail or low voltage (are you using batteries ?).

     

    For problem #1, here's a quick circuit to see if it's correct the problem:

     

    8500vid1.png

     

    And if this doesn't solve the problem then try #3: an DC adapter with 9 Volts and between 250 to 500 milliamps

    (watch out if it's a positive or negative tip because you could "fry" the game console if polarities are inverted).

     

    And if it's still doesn't correct the problem, then it,s a capactor...and the problem will be which one ?

     

    Try solutions #3 and 1 and let me know your progress, take care and keep in touch! :)

     

    --- Sly DC ---

  11. Posted

    Hey!

     

    That's great news, anxious to try it.

     

    Sounds like you found our project files already then.

    I started it and then worked with a vector artist to improve the images.

    And hyperspin was the forum we worked in.

    I have not been over there in awhile

     

    Did he post the haunted house overlay?

    That was the 1 that slowed the project down.

    Then it's mostly just the other add on set of games that I believe never got finished.

     

    We had also hoped to add a mode in the emulator to bring up the various game pieces and cards to view when needed.

    I started putting game parts into digital files but didn't get all too far.

    Would be really neat if this is something you could ever add to your simulator! ;)

     

    Thanks!

     

    I have found those overlays by doing a search on everybody's favorite search engine (lol).

     

    And nope, the guy who was doing those vector overlays left-off the project because of Haunted House

    and i understand why as it was such a pain in the ass just to vector it to 800x600 and took me so many hours

    and the worst it it's not totally rendered but enough to look good.

     

    As for accessories, all the games finished for the OdySim does have all their respective accessories, either were

    scans or simply pictures found on the net. Even Nicholas (aka njb12287 here on AA) helped me out to debug

    the first versions 3-4 years ago. Since he's married, he dissapeared from the face of this forum :(

     

    I'm only missing some scans/pics of certain parts of Invasion and Baseball to fully simulate those two. The rest

    of the official released games, i have all i need to proper simulate those.

     

    --- Sly DC ---

  12. Posted

    Hi stupus!

     

    Nope, not at all. I'm using the LUA language for my OdySim (Odyssey Simulator) as the odyemu is almost

    20 years old and uses a 320x200 display and is DOS only. The main programmer of the odyemu is Paul Robson

    as DW (david Winter) provided all the technical details of the Odyssey so tha t the odyemu would be the most

    accurate emulator possible.

     

    I did convert all the overlays for the odyemu about 10 years ago and some are horrible once converted to 320x200

    (like Haunted House). So this gave me the idea to do my own Odyssey SIMulator (not emulator) and after a few years

    of learning the LUA language, i've started my simulator project 5 years ago and i've almost finish it (all in my spare times).

     

    You can check out all the progress (and downloads) here: http://odysim.blogspot.com

     

    I'm using a 800x600 display (by default) and you can resize the OdySim to any size that your PC video card or TV can display

    but it still 800x600 as the sim stretches the output which the display is still pretty good.

     

    Someone on the Hyperspin forum posted many big size overlays (something like 1920x1080 - i think ?) and these is which i

    used to resize and vector them for the OdySim. For now, all original 12 games packed with the Odyssey are simulated (Football

    uses more than 40 buttons to simulate all the accessories it uses) and all 4 Rifle Gun games.

     

    In the past of a couple of days, i've done some Extra-1972 games and Dodgeball for the OdySim and these are ready to be

    uploaded today or tomorrow on the OdySim blog: Fun Zoo, Handball, Volleyball (and Dodgeball eventually).

     

    So try out the OdySim and LMK what you think of it, thanks! =)

     

    --- Sly DC ---

    • Like 1

  13. Posted

    Hi Chris!

     

    Do you have still a copy of Captain Bruce for sale ? If yes then please contact me ASAP.

     

    As for Dodgeball, i know this one is sold out but you also gave me permission to simulate Dodgeball

    and i have sent you a preview of the simulator. As today, i have recently updated your game with the

    new options for the OdySim (change screen resolution, sound, etc) and it's ready to be released

    with other Odyssey "extra-1972" games.

     

    I can send you the newer version before uploading it on my OdySim blog so you can LMK what you

    think.

     

    Keep up the great work! =)

     

    --- Sly DC ---

    • Like 1

  14. Posted · Edited by slydc

    @Kain3n: Hey! a fellow Canuck! :)

     

    A strait answer: Nope! But... in some Pong consoles (other than Coleco ones), i did use a similar circuit to boost the composite video signal

    (a 10k resistor from the base of the transistor to the ground, a 1K resistor from the emitter to the ground and sometimes a 75 ohms resistor

    one end between the emitter & 1k junction and the other end to output the video signal - BTW, the transistor is a 2N3904 or 2N2222) and the

    collector is attached to the Vcc (between 5V to 12V DC).

     

    So basically for some Pong consoles, i just use either 3 or4 components (a 10K resistor, a 1K resistor and a 2N3904 or 2N2222 transistor and

    sometimes a 75 ohms resistor)..that's it!

     

    The 7805 isn't needed at all as any 2N3904 or 2N2222 can take a voltage between 0 to 12v easely and the 100uF capacitor, only use if you

    get some static noises on the screen. I even A/V modded my 6-switch woodgrain Atari 2600 with only 3resistors and a transistor and the

    video signal is great.

     

    But you can do the A/V mod circuit that you attached to your post, this also works but it's uses more parts.

     

    BTW to anyone, if you have a Pong console which as either a Texas Instruments TMS1955 or TMS1965, these are EXACT copies of the

    AY-3-8500 & AY-3-8500-1. AY-3-8500 & TMS1955 are PAL chips and AY-3-8500-1 & TMS1965 are NTSC chips.

     

    Give us news on your modding progress! :)

     

    --- Sly DC ---

  15. Posted

    Thanks for this thread. My Coleco Telstar is a Marksman, and a different chip. I also have an APF TV Fun unit, and Unisonic Tournament 2000, and they might have this chipset, or just go out and get a different Telstar for this. It would be nice to have one pong system with AV out.

     

    OUPS!!!

     

    Sorry mate! I completely passed-by on your comment.

     

    The Coleco Telstar Marksman uses a "AY-3-8512-1" (same as for the Sears Telegames Gunslinger II) and this chip has only 16-pins. This one can be done with an A/V output but the video signal is inverted, so you need to re-invert it with a simple 2N3904 or 2N2222.

     

    Before trying to mod your APF TV-Fun, which model is it ? As APF uses different chips depending on their models. And for the Unisonic Tournament 2000, this one uses a AY-3-8500-1 as this one was my very first Pong console i've A/V mod about 15 years ago. :)

     

    --- Sly DC ---

  16. Posted · Edited by slydc

    Plugging a Japanese (NTSC) game console on a German (PAL) TV is not the best option as NTSC and PAL are not very compatible.

     

    But fear not! Does your German TV can go up to Channel 99 ? If so then try between channel 90 to 99 as some Japanese game

    consoles/systems works great between channel 93 to 96 (still talking of a CRT TV, not LCD/LED TV's).

     

    Just an example, i've tried a Fuji Electric Coca-Cola TV-Game Sportstron between channel 2 to 13 and i just get the game on a channel

    and the sound can be heard on the next channel! But by tuning between channel 90 to 99, one of these channel (mostly channel 96) works.

     

    Even Japanese RF signals doesn't work great on a CND/USA TV (even if Japan and North America uses NTSC), there's still a slight

    difference between Japan and US RF signals but as composite video, that works like a charm. And again, NTSC composite video on a PAL

    TV/monitor (or vice-versa) isn't compatible (no color and vertical sync rolls).

     

    So try out between channel 90 to 99 and LMK if it works for you. =)

     

    --- Sly DC ---

  19. Posted

    Just tried the multicart and it works like a charm! And i tested each games/utilities on the cart and it passes in flying colors.

    Major Kudos to Flip, ekeefe (TPA correction), stupus (manual & labels) and all homebrewers and dumpers out there, this

    is worth every pennies!! (and more!)

     

    So now that i have dig up my Studio II, i had a mod i wanted to try out for years but never taken the time to test it...

    until now. And on my first attemp, it worked! What is it ? Simply a "pause" switch! Check the vid:

     

    https://youtu.be/4uJJytxtjz0

     

    So now i only have to try out how long can i pause a game and if this damage anything.Back to bench! :)

    • Like 6

  21. Posted

    I agree with BassGuitari for the Odyssey 500 and the Atari Super Pong as the Odyseey 500 is very unique (it's a discrete game console with it's own graphic sprites and especially in color) and the Atari Super Pong since the Atari Pong has only one game and this game is available in the Super Pong. Also, any Ultra Pong from Atari is worth owning one as it has at least 16 built-in games.

     

    As for the common Pong consoles (either a AY-3-8500-1 or a TMS1955NL as both these chips are identical), they are worth between $10 to $40 depending how many games it has, compete (or not), condition, etc. There is one system that is worth to have but is now expensive, it's the Coleco Telstar Arcade.

     

    But what better to see how the games feels and looks like, so here's two links to Youtube:

     

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAon6SCAS8QYdhbDDECdkDL6QR9ofuNPM

    (discrete game consoles)

     

    https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLAon6SCAS8QbL2RtcYmlc7sqYEC1XBkZc

    (dedicated game consoles/systems)

    • Like 1

  22. Posted

    Thanks for the info, i must have crap in my eyes not seeing (errr...reading) in the first post....think i'm getting too old. :_(

     

    At $40 (cart+shipping), it's a great deal so put my name on the list too. Now, it only missing a front and a back label

    for those who's going to get a shell with it. Anyone up to designing those labels ?

     

    Like this guy (Nishikintoki) on DeviantArt who made a front label and the box cover of a fan-made (non-existant) game

    called "Race of Speed". Check out the two links:

     

    http://nishikintoki.deviantart.com/art/Race-of-Speed-Studio-II-625633565

     

    http://nishikintoki.deviantart.com/art/Race-of-Speed-Cartridge-Studio-II-1977-625634601

    • Like 1

  24. Posted

    Thank you so much Ed!

     

    I didn't realise that i've made this error...big "DOH!" on my part!

     

    And you are absolutely right as this information comes from the M.E.S.S. site:

     

     

    Toshiba Visicom Console (RCA Studio II clone)
    Toshiba, 1978


    TMM331 - Toshiba TMM331AP 2k x8 MASKROM (DIP24)
    Pinout:
    TMM331
    |-----\/----|
    A7 |1 24| VCC
    A8 |2 23| D0
    A9 |3 22| D1
    A10 |4 21| D2
    A0 |5 20| D3
    A1 |6 19| D4
    A2 |7 18| D5
    A3 |8 17| D6
    A4 |9 16| D7
    A5 |10 15| E0 (measured LOW)
    A6 |11 14| E1 (NC?)
    GND |12 13| E2 (measured LOW)
    |-----------|

    E0 - E2 are Programmable Chip Select Inputs
    TMM331 is compatible with AMI S6831A, AMD AM9217,
    Intel 2316A/8316A, MOSTEK MK31000, GI RO-3-8316,
    NATIONAL/NEC/SYNERTEK 2316A etc


    Cartridges
    -------------
    Inside is a Toshiba TMM331AP ROM, which is pin compatible with the Signetics S6831.
    The cartridge to TMM331 pin connections are as follows, with cartridge pin 1 being the left most angled contact:

    Pin 1 to ROM pins 12,13 (GND and E2)
    Pin 2 to ROM pins 24,15 (VCC and E0)
    Pin 3 to ROM pin 23 (D0)
    Pin 4 to ROM pin 22 (D1)
    Pin 5 to ROM pin 21 (D2)
    Pin 6 to ROM pin 20 (D3)
    Pin 7 to ROM pin 19 (D4)
    Pin 8 to ROM pin 18 (D5)
    Pin 9 to ROM pin 17 (D6)
    Pin 10 to ROM pin 16 (D7)
    Pin 11 to ROM pin 14 (E1)
    Pin 12 to ROM pin 11 (A6)
    Pin 13 to ROM pin 10 (A5)
    Pin 14 to ROM pin 9 (A4)
    Pin 15 to ROM pin 8 (A3)
    Pin 16 to ROM pin 7 (A2)
    Pin 17 to ROM pin 6 (A1)
    Pin 18 to ROM pin 5 (A0)
    Pin 19 to ROM pin 1 (A7)
    Pin 20 to ROM pin 4 (A10)
    Pin 21 to ROM pin 3 (A9)
    Pin 22 to ROM pin 2 (A8)

     

    Now this is were i've made my mistake as the TMM331AP ROM is pin compatible to a 2316A EPROM,

    this EPROM is not pin compatible with a 2716, just need to swap the pins and this is were i've made

    my "booboo"..... DOH!!

     

    So here's version 2 of the schematic thanks Ed!):

     

    toshiba-v2.png

    • Like 1
AtariAge
Forums
Store
General
Follow AtariAge

Copyright ©1998-2021 AtariAge

×
×
  • Create New...